Jump to content

Another Tire Question...


Recommended Posts

Posted

Okay so I know most of these topics have been talked to death and I'm just adding to it but I can't find the answer anywhere. So here goes, I'm getting new tires this summer and I'm pretty undecided on what I want. I have the 2" RC leveling kit in and I'm running stock rims. I've narrowed it down to 3. The 3 I'm looking at are:

 

BFG KM2

 

Cooper Discoverer ST

 

Cooper Discoverer STT.

 

Now the Cooper STT comes in a 295/70/17... Having a little bigger tire if I decide to go that way would be nice. I thought the 295 would fit without any trimming and heard from alot of people it will. But recently I've been reading alot of stuff about 295's rubbing and needing trimming. I'm not a big fan of trimming and would just rather not if I didn't have to.

 

Anyone running 295/70/17's with any problems or any of you tire guys know if this will work or not?

Posted

The Cooper ST is a great all around tire. It's quieter than the STT and cost a TON less than the BFG. I've had STs on my Jeep. Good tires.

 

000223.jpg

Posted

Yeah the ST's are good looking tires and are going to be the least noisy of the bunch. I don't need a mud tire but it's nice to have when I do and I love the look. The ST's I've priced at $190 a tire. Both the STT and the BFG are around $215 a piece. So the price isn't really a huge difference between them

Posted

That's the problem I love all 3! I'm torn... And yeah treadsepot is where I've been looking.

 

But the question is still there... Will a 295 fit?

Posted

I have 285/65/18 on my after market rims and the tires rub a little when turned full lock. Like going up/down a driveway backing up only. Never tried 295 but i think they will rub more then mine. :tear: Hope this helps.

 

Personaly I think I would go with the BFG KM2. :shakehead:

Posted

yes they will rub the lower corners of the front lower valance and the lower portion of your wheel wells in the front around dead center.(when backing up and turning)

 

I have 295 70 18 and a 6 inch lift so your will rub more probably. dont sweat the trimming though, its no big deal and doesnt look bad at all

Posted

The Jeep looks nice. I have always liked the Cherokee since my wife had one several years ago.

 

Just wondering, why do you have so many cross bars on the roof rack?

 

The Cooper ST is a great all around tire. It's quieter than the STT and cost a TON less than the BFG. I've had STs on my Jeep. Good tires.

 

000223.jpg

Posted

I really don't want to trim anything on the truck... Not too crazy about cutting on a new truck. I guess I'll just stick to the 285's

Posted
The Jeep looks nice. I have always liked the Cherokee since my wife had one several years ago.

 

Just wondering, why do you have so many cross bars on the roof rack?

 

The Cooper ST is a great all around tire. It's quieter than the STT and cost a TON less than the BFG. I've had STs on my Jeep. Good tires.

 

000223.jpg

 

Weight distribution when the roof carrier is installed. That and I had them from another Cherokee I used to own... Plus it was different.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I was building a HD 3500 srw, maybe I was lost.
    • No doubt, I definitely agree with you. However, considering the 6.2 and 3.0 have been catastrophically failing with very little miles, I figured I would put trouble free. I’m at 18,4xx and still not a single issue.  
    • It’s never dry here but it gets hot. My 4 vehicles I keep at home drive an 18 mile loop. One 6 days a week. Two about 3 days each and one once a month. Only one goes on trips about 4 times a year 1000 to 2000 miles each time. One 26 years old gets driven once a month for 22 years. One 14 years old goes 6 days a week. The other two are recent at 2 and 4 years. All are performing normal no extra service other than that would be half of recommended or severe service in the maintenance manual. No extra water or steam out the exhaust or premature plug wear. I would consider an 18 mile loop would be enough. So apparently once a month at 18 miles for 22 years has kept the collector car running well. About 45 minutes a month. 
    • It is working as designed.  NHT and non NHT trucks have the same exact transmission cooling setup.  NHT just gets a larger radiator.     The transmission cooler loop on these is as follows.     -Transmission out goes into an oil to water heat exchanger (item #1 in the first illustration below).  This exchanger has engine coolant opposite the transmission fluid and uses engine coolant to warm and then regulate the transmission fluid temperature when its in the operating window.   - From the cooler it goes to a thermal bypass valve (item #11 in the 2nd illustration below).  If the ATF has not reached the temp to open the bypass (194F), it loops back.   - When it reaches 194F, the thermostat opens and ATF then flows out to the oil to air auxiliary cooler (item #17 in the 2nd illustration) at the front of the truck.  From there it goes back to the transmission.     Your only fix would be to swap for the PPE thermal bypass delete block which will open the loop to the aux cooler all the time.  It will STILL run warm, probably 170-200F, but that's as low as you'll get it as its still flowing through the oil to water exchanger.      
    • Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...