Jump to content

Can't Remove Key On 96 Grand Am


KCXLT

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi, I'm trying to help my mother in law. The key won't turn past the accessories spot when trying to shut the car off. It starts and runs ok. I took the shroud off the steering column and there is what looks like a solenoid with a black/white wire going to it. If I push the back of that then the key will go to the off position and come out. I disconnected the wiring and tried to get a voltage reading with the car off, the car in the run position and the shifter in park and the car in the run position with the shifter in gear. I don't seem to get any voltage, I tried down to mV. Its a floor shifter so I popped the cover off and all the plugs look like there plugged in properly.

 

Any ideas what the next thing to look at is? My parts guy said it could be a module down by the shifter and he also mentioned the brake switch. I can shift out of park without putting my foot on the brake.

 

Thanks

Posted
Hi, I'm trying to help my mother in law. The key won't turn past the accessories spot when trying to shut the car off. It starts and runs ok. I took the shroud off the steering column and there is what looks like a solenoid with a black/white wire going to it. If I push the back of that then the key will go to the off position and come out. I disconnected the wiring and tried to get a voltage reading with the car off, the car in the run position and the shifter in park and the car in the run position with the shifter in gear. I don't seem to get any voltage, I tried down to mV. Its a floor shifter so I popped the cover off and all the plugs look like there plugged in properly.

 

Any ideas what the next thing to look at is? My parts guy said it could be a module down by the shifter and he also mentioned the brake switch. I can shift out of park without putting my foot on the brake.

 

Thanks

 

Seems like the electric solenoid in the steering column has gone bad. It's supposed to keep the key from going to lock position when the vehicle is still in gear to prevent accidental steering wheel lock while going down the road which could cause a crash. But, it looks like it's bad and is keeping the key in all the time.

Posted

After some more fooling around I think the problem is in the shifter area. Must be the contacts that tell the solenoid that the car is in park. I watched the solenoid as I moved the shifter around in park and after a few seconds I got the solenoid to go in which released the key. So I'll find out what that part costs. For now she will have to stick her finger in the hole on the bottom of the steering column and push the solenoid manually.

 

Thanks

Posted
After some more fooling around I think the problem is in the shifter area. Must be the contacts that tell the solenoid that the car is in park. I watched the solenoid as I moved the shifter around in park and after a few seconds I got the solenoid to go in which released the key. So I'll find out what that part costs. For now she will have to stick her finger in the hole on the bottom of the steering column and push the solenoid manually.

 

Thanks

 

Oh, o.k. Sounds like the park/neutral switch then. But if it cranks up fine it can't be that. Oh well, good luck!!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 
    • This is going to take allot of Assembly    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...