Jump to content

Traditional Waxing...is It Even Necessary?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I've been doing a lot of thinking and wondering if traditional waxing is best for todays modern clear coat finishes. It all started churning in my mind a couple years ago when a friend was telling me that a clear coat finish doesn't need wax and it actually is damaging because the clear coat is so thin you will actually go through it after a number of years. I read on the internet that clear coat has a life span of 4-8 years. That actually sounds kinda short to me. If thats true I really wouldn't want to do anything to wear it down quicker. I am a pretty strong believer that polishes and paste waxes are harmful to a clear coat finish. I'm mainly wondering about a good liquid wax? I've been using a spray on wax for the last couple years. I think it's pretty much just something to gloss it up and make it slick. As far as actually having a true wax coat, it's probably nothing like a liquid wax. I've also read somewhere that using carnauba can be counterproductive on a clear coat finish because it is actually milky in color and not crystal clear like a synthetic would be. I'm mainly concerned about all the rubbing involved and the light abrasiveness in traditional waxing.

I've be thinking about going with this synthetic sealer/shine. It's something you can just wipe on and walk away. It adds sealer and protection without any kind of abrasive or rubbing/buffing. It sounds like it makes since to me.

Ultima Paint Guard Plus Sealer/Shine

What do ya'll think?

I know this is a lot of useless rambling. I can't help it, I obsess over stuff like this until I put my mind at ease. I'm also a fanatic about a clean show car shine on my truck. I have been religiously detailing my truck at least once a week since I got it 5 months ago.

Posted
I've been doing a lot of thinking and wondering if traditional waxing is best for todays modern clear coat finishes. It all started churning in my mind a couple years ago when a friend was telling me that a clear coat finish doesn't need wax and it actually is damaging because the clear coat is so thin you will actually go through it after a number of years. I read on the internet that clear coat has a life span of 4-8 years. That actually sounds kinda short to me. If thats true I really wouldn't want to do anything to wear it down quicker. I am a pretty strong believer that polishes and paste waxes are harmful to a clear coat finish. I'm mainly wondering about a good liquid wax? I've been using a spray on wax for the last couple years. I think it's pretty much just something to gloss it up and make it slick. As far as actually having a true wax coat, it's probably nothing like a liquid wax. I've also read somewhere that using carnauba can be counterproductive on a clear coat finish because it is actually milky in color and not crystal clear like a synthetic would be. I'm mainly concerned about all the rubbing involved and the light abrasiveness in traditional waxing.

I've be thinking about going with this synthetic sealer/shine. It's something you can just wipe on and walk away. It adds sealer and protection without any kind of abrasive or rubbing/buffing. It sounds like it makes since to me.

Ultima Paint Guard Plus Sealer/Shine

What do ya'll think?

I know this is a lot of useless rambling. I can't help it, I obsess over stuff like this until I put my mind at ease. I'm also a fanatic about a clean show car shine on my truck. I have been religiously detailing my truck at least once a week since I got it 5 months ago.

 

I've never waxed my pickup, and when I clean it, it still shines like factory. Now, on my 83 third gen, I wax it every so often or will get dull and powdery feeling.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

HAND waxing it with a good paste style wax will be fine. What you don't want to do is start going at it with a high speed buffer. I spent a lot of time working in the detail bay when I worked for GM and this is not something that we would ever do. We would HAND wax plenty of brand new very nice cars. Hand waxing and buffing is gentle enough not to strip any finish. Go ahead without worries.

Posted

i had my own detailing business b4 i moved. Our 2010 black silverago has been waxed 3 times in 3 months! hand wax, mothers

Posted

You may also be confusing waxing with polishing. Two different operations. Polishes contains abrasives, waxes do not. Any "wax" that is sold that also says it removes scratches is actually a polishing agent.

Posted

Claybar then Polish then Wax. Just did it this past Saturday and she looks better than she did when I got her. SURE AS HELL you need to wax your vehicle no matter how new or old it is! Generally speaking if you do a good enough job, and you are not in harsh conditions/climates once a year will do just fine. Oh, and the wax they supposedly use at the car washes? yeah right. That ain't wax. it's just stuff that smells good.

Posted

I ended up getting the Ultima paint guard plus. So far I really like it. You just wipe it on a walk away. At first it looks a little smudgy, like and oily film on the paint but after a few hours and it cures it looks amazing. crystal clear and shiny. The water beads like crazy. And it supposed to last a full year but it's so easy I'll be doing it fairly regular.

I am pretty much convinced that a good quality smooth wax is not going to hurt your clear coat. But I am still not going to touch the polishes or clay bar. The clear coat is about as thick as a sheet of paper and I'm thinking a lot of years and a few abrasives = no clear coat.

Posted

Given GMs track record on paint quality and how thin the paint is, I'd strongly suggest you re-consider. The more protection you put on, the better. Just my humble opinion though.

 

:thumbs:

 

I ended up getting the Ultima paint guard plus. So far I really like it. You just wipe it on a walk away. At first it looks a little smudgy, like and oily film on the paint but after a few hours and it cures it looks amazing. crystal clear and shiny. The water beads like crazy. And it supposed to last a full year but it's so easy I'll be doing it fairly regular.

I am pretty much convinced that a good quality smooth wax is not going to hurt your clear coat. But I am still not going to touch the polishes or clay bar. The clear coat is about as thick as a sheet of paper and I'm thinking a lot of years and a few abrasives = no clear coat.

Posted

Ryan,

 

whats wrong with the ultima paint guard that he put on? isnt that stuff supposed to be just as good, or better than, any other wax in terms of protection?

Posted

Now feel free to call me biased considering I've been detailing peoples cars with a high speed rotary for ~6 years, but when used properly, a buffer with a mild abrasive polish is safe for use on clear coat finishes. Note the operative words "WHEN USED PROPERLY".

 

Before I bought my half ton, I had a 2000 S10, which was traded in when I bought the '10. I must've polished it twice a year with my high speed rotary and Meguiars machine glaze (occasionally heavier compounds if there were deep scratches) and never burned the clear. Everything had been repainted at least once except for the nose (Hood, fenders) and I never burned through the clear. It all depends on how much you have to remove to get a good smooth surface out of the clear. I would also always put a couple coats of Zaino on it after I polished it smooth too, so it wasnt like I was letting the elements damage the paint between buffings with no surface protection.

 

As for my '10, I've only had it since May, and I've already hit it with the buffer once to take out all the fine scratches left by the dealership staff when they brushed snow off of it during the winter. I used a light cut/polish foam pad with Meguiars m205 (4/12 on abrasive scale) with relatively light pressure, and worked my way up to machine glaze (1/12) on an ultra-fine finish pad, followed by a couple coats of zaino, and IMO it looked leaps and bounds better than when it came out of Recon at the dealership.

 

Didnt mean to hijack on an abrasives discussion, but to answer the OP, the great debate between sealers and wax is that wax gives the perception of a deeper gloss, whereas sealers give more of a plastic-y look (allegedly) where the gloss isnt as deep as that of carnauba. Personally I use Zaino, which is a sealer, and I think the gloss is just fine. Some even put sealer on for protection and add a layer of carnauba for the "Deep Gloss", which could be overkill, but to each their own!

 

 

Edit: Why not throw some pics in for an example of a sealer

 

 

DSC03921.JPG

 

DSC03912.JPG

Posted

Agreed Modena, any tool used properly can help achieve positive results. I was simply cautioning the OP against using high speed rotary/buffers because of the possibility to do more harm than good. For all I know the OP might be skilled in using that particular tool, but if not I would just leave that alone and hand wax. I would hand wax anyways though! :D

Posted

I use Mothers three steps and have had great results. Living in the snow belt we get alot of salt and sand on the roads, and being that a clear coat is not perfect I beleive that the pre wax cleaner does alot to remove crap from the finish. I've skipped the second stage(sealer and glaze) a few times and just went staright to wax, I find that taking the time to use the sealer adds alot of depth to the clear. There are alot of trucks on the road up here and you can surely tell which ones see paint protection and which ones don't.

I bet if you put a clear coat finish under a micro scope it would look pretty rough, to me you need to clean the crap out, seal it up and smooth it out a little. I know it's not like water sanding and buffing or even show car detailing from a high speed machine, but for the average guy in his drive way you can make a big improvement with some good products and elbow grease.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
Claybar then Polish then Wax. Just did it this past Saturday and she looks better than she did when I got her. SURE AS HELL you need to wax your vehicle no matter how new or old it is! Generally speaking if you do a good enough job, and you are not in harsh conditions/climates once a year will do just fine. Oh, and the wax they supposedly use at the car washes? yeah right. That ain't wax. it's just stuff that smells good.

 

 

+1

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,530 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...