Jump to content

Running 33's Without A Leveling Kit


roderik

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello everyone!

 

I am new to this and was wondering what are the risks of running a 33x12.5x20 tire on a LTZ 20'' stock rim without a leveling kit other than the rubbing when turning at a full angle? Also, I have heard the word offset and gear ratio a lot on these forums when putting on new tires and excuse my ignorance, but would I have to worry about this when putting this tire size on the stock wheel? Can someone explain this to me? Thank you for the input.

Posted
Yeah goodluck. Where r u finding that size? 275/60r20 is 33x10.8. Also level kits r cheap

 

 

I currently have 275/55/r20 stock goodyears but I am getting offered a good deal on some 33x12.5x20 tires but I want to keep my stock LTZ wheels...im sure they will fit on that wheel but I am not sure if I should worry about other issues.....the leveling kit (3") runs about $350 installed here in town....im just debating whether to get it now or if it could wait.... also running that bigger tire I think is going to affect gas mileage...thanks for everyone's input!

Posted
.....the leveling kit (3") runs about $350 installed here in town....im just debating whether to get it now or if it could wait.... also running that bigger tire I think is going to affect gas mileage...thanks for everyone's input!

 

All you need is a 1.5" to 2" level to run 33" diameter tires. Some of these kits are under $70 shipped and is an easy DIY job! I used the Rough Country 2" kit. The only issue you may have is on the width (12.5") and stock rims.

 

Where is Matt when you need him??

Posted
.....the leveling kit (3") runs about $350 installed here in town....im just debating whether to get it now or if it could wait.... also running that bigger tire I think is going to affect gas mileage...thanks for everyone's input!

 

All you need is a 1.5" to 2" level to run 33" diameter tires. Some of these kits are under $70 shipped and is an easy DIY job! I used the Rough Country 2" kit. The only issue you may have is on the width (12.5") and stock rims.

 

Where is Matt when you need him??

 

 

Exactly, that's a wide tire for stock rims. Don't try and get 3" of clearance out of a leveling kit, any higher than 2" and it's gunna ride like a dump truck and you will go through parts like theres no tomorrow.

Posted
.....the leveling kit (3") runs about $350 installed here in town....im just debating whether to get it now or if it could wait.... also running that bigger tire I think is going to affect gas mileage...thanks for everyone's input!

 

All you need is a 1.5" to 2" level to run 33" diameter tires. Some of these kits are under $70 shipped and is an easy DIY job! I used the Rough Country 2" kit. The only issue you may have is on the width (12.5") and stock rims.

 

Where is Matt when you need him??

 

 

Exactly, that's a wide tire for stock rims. Don't try and get 3" of clearance out of a leveling kit, any higher than 2" and it's gunna ride like a dump truck and you will go through parts like theres no tomorrow.

 

 

Thanks for the advice....you think I can get away with a 305/50/20 on that stock LTZ wheel then or what other options would I have?

Posted
.....the leveling kit (3") runs about $350 installed here in town....im just debating whether to get it now or if it could wait.... also running that bigger tire I think is going to affect gas mileage...thanks for everyone's input!

 

All you need is a 1.5" to 2" level to run 33" diameter tires. Some of these kits are under $70 shipped and is an easy DIY job! I used the Rough Country 2" kit. The only issue you may have is on the width (12.5") and stock rims.

 

Where is Matt when you need him??

 

 

Exactly, that's a wide tire for stock rims. Don't try and get 3" of clearance out of a leveling kit, any higher than 2" and it's gunna ride like a dump truck and you will go through parts like theres no tomorrow.

 

 

Thanks for the advice....you think I can get away with a 305/55/20 on that stock LTZ wheel then or what other options would I have?

 

Posted
I was going to go 2.5" and was under $100 but found a deal on a 2" RC kit for $50 so i got it! Those 3" kits a very bad from what i read!!!!

 

tire sizes

275/55r20=31.8x10.8

305/50r20=32..0x12.0

 

your friend

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/b...nfoTireMath.jsp

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the advice everyone...nice trucks by the way......I will post pics once I get my setup going.....I have learned a lot from these forums!

Posted
get you a RC 2" level kit you cant beat it ;)

 

 

 

Where did you buy yours at.....I have been trying to look for it online but cannot find it? Thanks.

Posted

on here someone put it on and truck wouldnt fit in garage so took it off :thumbs:. i think i had someone pm me saying that had a new one for like $50

Posted
on here someone put it on and truck wouldnt fit in garage so took it off :thumbs: . i think i had someone pm me saying that had a new one for like $50

 

If he pm's you again...send him my way........if not I'll just buy the Rough country. Thx.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start   The ignition voltage is between 10 and 15 V. The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) at start-up is less than 42°C (108°F). The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 2–32°C (36–90°F). The engine is OFF for greater than 6 hours or the following conditions must be met: The start-up IAT minus start-up ECT are within 12°C (22°F). The start-up ECT minus start-up IAT are within 50°C (90°F). Fuel level is between 25 and 75 %.   Circuit/System Verification Verify that all I/M System Status indicators report YES, and that no I/M Test DTCs are present.If any I/M Test DTCs are set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. If no I/M Test DTCs are set All OK. Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure   Warning: Refer to Road Test Warning. Note: Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal until told to do so. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test.   Note: An I/M Test DTC will not be stored or erased from the ECU except at the end of trip processing, which occurs 5 s after ignition OFF.   Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable. Turn OFF all of the accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood.   Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission.   Start and idle the engine for 2 min.   Close the hood, release the parking brake and Accelerate at part throttle to 72–80 km/h (45–50 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature, 8–10 min.   Continue operation under these conditions for an additional 6 min.   Accelerate at part throttle to 90 km/h (55 mph) with this speed maintained for 2 min.   Release the accelerator pedal for at least 10 s. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off.   Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 min.   Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 min.   Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES.   If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, turn OFF the ignition, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 6-11 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run.   If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator.   Observe the I/M Test DTC information with a scan tool. Verify there are no I/M Test DTCs present. If an I/M Test DTC is set, diagnose the DTC using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle and refer to Inspection/Maintenance System Check.   Observe the engine DTC information with a scan tool. Verify no DTCs are present. If a DTC is set, diagnose using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. After repairs, perform the Inspection/Maintenance Complete System Set Procedure to verify no further DTCs are set.       Looks like one procedure to me.  Repeated as necessary.
    • My 2020 AT4 6.2 has had the valve spring issue addressed at ~200 miles, front cover/pump replaced at 18k, water pump at 34k and idler pully at 65k.  I would agree with ditching by 100k unless you elect to go with upgraded hardware...say built 10l80 and an lt4 or l8p swap.
    • I also need one of your modules for my 1993 chevy c2500 7.4 Thanks! My email is [email protected]
    • Chevy needs to do a black regular cab short box SS model with the new 6.6L.  400SS.
    • You might find the drive cycle you need somewhere on charm.li (website), otherwise I suggest a subscription to alldata.com to get them for your truck.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...