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My New Audio Build Specs:

Se77vN

By Se77vN
in Audio, Electronics & Software

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Se77vN Enthusiast

Se77vN

Posted
Posted

Hello all, I just bought all the stuff for my new truck audio build, and wanted to share it with you. Hopefully this stuff will get in by next weekend and I can start the install. Here's what I bought:

 

KENWOOD DDX516 2-DIN 6.1" AM/FM/DVD/CD/MP3/USB/IPOD

 

KENWOOD ELECTRONIC VIDEO LOCKOUT BYPASS DDX-514 DDX-516

 

2 ROCKFORD FOSGATE P3D212 PUNCH P3 12" SUBWOOFERS SUBS

 

POWER ACOUSTIK CPT1-3200D MONOBLOCK 3200W CAR AMPLIFIER

 

NEW POLK AUDIO db6501 2 WAY COMPONENT CAR SPEAKER

 

POLK AUDIO MM461P 4 X 6 PLATE MARINE GRADE SPEAKERS

 

NEW POWER ACOUSTIK CPT4-800 4 CHANNEL CAR AMPLIFIER AMP

 

Axxess ASWC Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface

 

10415 DYNAMAT 100% XTREME Speaker Kit (2) 10"x10" NEW!

 

Power/Ground Distribution Block 0 4 8 Gauge Amp Install

 

0awg CAR AUDIO AMP AMPLIFIER GROUND DISTRIBUTION BLOCK

 

 

I got everything from fleabay, if your interested in the prices, just cut and paste into an ebay search and you'll see what I paid.

 

Can you guys think of anything I might have missed? I already have a 0GA amp kit, and ultra deep subthump box. Also any tips/tricks I should be aware of when I go to put this stuff in? I currently have the stock HU, with the bose speakers, all of which will be gutted, and new speaker wires run for everything.

 

Thanking you in advance!

John

jdubya Enthusiast

jdubya

Posted
Posted

sounds good but you could have saved some money with that "video lockout bypass" by hooking the parking break wire on the headunit to ground on the head unit.

 

Also, why did you decide to purchase marine grade speakers?

Se77vN Enthusiast

Se77vN

Posted
  • Author
Posted
sounds good but you could have saved some money with that "video lockout bypass" by hooking the parking break wire on the headunit to ground on the head unit.

 

Also, why did you decide to purchase marine grade speakers?

 

Damn...wish I had known that. Oh well maybe I can still return it. As far as the speakers well, they were the best deal I could find, and the reviews I read everyone had put them in their cars and said they worked great, so I figured "why not".

 

Thanks for the info on the HU, I am sitting here like a kid at christmas waiting for everything to come in.

KMGZ400 Senior Enthusiast

KMGZ400

Posted
Posted

well my uncle installed some type of polk marine speakers in his pontoon boat and they sound great.

 

i dont know if too many people here are into to speakers and such, probably why no one has responded. i can change brake pads, but i dont know a damn thing when i comes to speakers.

cgalford Enthusiast

cgalford

Posted
Posted

Someone already addressed the useless bypass

 

I don't see an wiring harness or interface module. The module (more expensive) would give you RAP, reverse input if you want to get a camera, and parking brake which you won't use. The simple plug harness comes with a long accessory wire that runs to the fuse box.

 

Do yourself a favor and don't run new wires to the door speakers. The stock wiring can easily handle 80W rms and you won't increase your chances of water leaks, the door boots are a pain to put back on.

Se77vN Enthusiast

Se77vN

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Someone already addressed the useless bypass

 

I don't see an wiring harness or interface module. The module (more expensive) would give you RAP, reverse input if you want to get a camera, and parking brake which you won't use. The simple plug harness comes with a long accessory wire that runs to the fuse box.

 

Do yourself a favor and don't run new wires to the door speakers. The stock wiring can easily handle 80W rms and you won't increase your chances of water leaks, the door boots are a pain to put back on.

 

Thanks so much for your advice, it is greatly appreciated. This is exactly the kind of tidbits I was looking for, and what makes this forum so damn awesome!!

 

I picked up a DD dash kit, antenna adapter, and harness on Sat from amazon. I also picked up a 5 farad cap on sat as well. Hopefully that is the last of it, I'm already in the hole like $1500, but I wanted to do everything at once instead of having to rip everything apart 4 times.

 

Regarding the interface module, do you mean for the door chimes and onstar? I didn't want to retain those so I opted not to get it. I did pick a steering wheel interface though so I can keep the SW buttons. Anyone know or have a link readily available to a write up for installing this? I searched and didn't find it.

jdubya Enthusiast

jdubya

Posted
Posted

I believe there is a device made by PAC? (not sure) that integrates everything for the Chevy trucks, Onstar, Door Chimes, steering wheel controls. If you search the site you will be able to find it. I did not use it for my install but I wish I did it sounds like a better option.

 

That would be the one to get.

 

Also +1 on using the factory wiring, the shop that I work at we always use factory wiring when installing a 4 channel amp. Makes the install faster and cleaner. There is something called speed wire which is a bundle of wire containing +/- for all 4 channels plus an amp turn on that makes it easy to run from the amp (where ever you have them mounted) to behind the radio to hook up to your harness.

Se77vN Enthusiast

Se77vN

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I believe there is a device made by PAC? (not sure) that integrates everything for the Chevy trucks, Onstar, Door Chimes, steering wheel controls. If you search the site you will be able to find it. I did not use it for my install but I wish I did it sounds like a better option.

 

That would be the one to get.

 

Also +1 on using the factory wiring, the shop that I work at we always use factory wiring when installing a 4 channel amp. Makes the install faster and cleaner. There is something called speed wire which is a bundle of wire containing +/- for all 4 channels plus an amp turn on that makes it easy to run from the amp (where ever you have them mounted) to behind the radio to hook up to your harness.

 

Cool, I read a bunch of reviews that said the PAC steering wheel adapter was very slow to respond whereas the axxis one (at least according to the reviews I read) was supposed to be more like the sensitivity we have with the oem rig.

 

I already have all the speaker wiring and RCA's from a new and old amp kit which I can use for the speakers so I won't be needing the fast kit (though that is a good idea). So the idea basically is to run all four sets of wires from the amp up to the front where the exsisting harness is and wire these to the corresponding speaker wires from the harness? I guess I am just concerned I might lose out on sound quility if I re-used the factory wiring... I have some decent 12GA wire I was going to use... what do you think? Give it to me straight.

jdubya Enthusiast

jdubya

Posted
Posted
Cool, I read a bunch of reviews that said the PAC steering wheel adapter was very slow to respond whereas the axxis one (at least according to the reviews I read) was supposed to be more like the sensitivity we have with the oem rig.

 

I already have all the speaker wiring and RCA's from a new and old amp kit which I can use for the speakers so I won't be needing the fast kit (though that is a good idea). So the idea basically is to run all four sets of wires from the amp up to the front where the exsisting harness is and wire these to the corresponding speaker wires from the harness? I guess I am just concerned I might lose out on sound quility if I re-used the factory wiring... I have some decent 12GA wire I was going to use... what do you think? Give it to me straight.

 

That is the idea.

 

I have never had an issue reusing factory speaker wiring in any vehicle what so ever. And the factory wiring is already 14ga so switching it to 12 will not make a difference.

 

Also, I recommended the PAC because it seemed to be an all in one unit (Not just steering wheel control) I have never used it. Just a disclaimer....

 

I have wired a PAC SW controller I do know they are a pain in the a** to wire. Hopefully the Axxis will be a little easier.

isaidme Enthusiast

isaidme

Posted
Posted

Its actually best to run new heavier gauge wire to your components if adding a new amp. Alot of "in and out" stereo shops do what you are talking about and it will be ok but you are just putting more breaks in the signal and robbing yourself of some power and possibly adding noise to your speakers. Now if you can run fresh wire from your amp to the power inputs of the crossovers and then hook the factory wire directly to the speaker outputs of the crossover that would be alot better.

jdubya Enthusiast

jdubya

Posted
Posted

actually I do not work for an "In and Out Stereo shop" and I challenge you to find any evidence that running larger gauge wire to component speakers helps with sound quality....

 

A lot of "High End" shops will sell you heavier gauge speaker wire and tell you that it matters to get you to spend more money.

cgalford Enthusiast

cgalford

Posted
Posted

"robbing yourself of some power" There is some truth to that but at 80Wrms with new wiring your speakers will be putting out 79.5698 W at max volume and with stock wiring it would be 79.0026W so you need to decide if all that extra work and possibility for leaks is worth the 0.465% increase at max volume.

 

The instructions with the steering wheel controls should be enough. It basically power and ground with you can wire in at the radio then 1 wire which is a pain to find and soldier to.

 

If you don't care about door chime or onstar then all a module would do is give you retained accessory power, which can be tapped into at the fuse panel so you're good with just a harness.

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