Jump to content

Shock Extensions


Recommended Posts

Posted

Im looking at adding the 3'' blocks to my truck here in the next couple weeks and on the readylift site I saw that they recommend shock extensions for the rear (http://www.readylift.com/p-362-rear-shock-...500-2wd4wd.aspx). Well it says recommended with off road use (which my truck wont really see). Just looking for opinions if you guys think I should add the extensions at the same time when I do the blocks. Would it be rare for them to "top out" or over extend with regular driving? I searched "shock extensions" and didnt come up with anything.

 

Thanks for the feedback

Posted

i put shock extension in the front of the yukon.. i really never have seen rear shock extensions..

Posted

Yeah i think they just put it on the site bc i never seen it on there before if it was. It just got me thinkin when i noticed it if I would be better off getting them or not.

Posted
Im looking at adding the 3'' blocks to my truck here in the next couple weeks and on the readylift site I saw that they recommend shock extensions for the rear (http://www.readylift.com/p-362-rear-shock-...500-2wd4wd.aspx). Well it says recommended with off road use (which my truck wont really see). Just looking for opinions if you guys think I should add the extensions at the same time when I do the blocks. Would it be rare for them to "top out" or over extend with regular driving? I searched "shock extensions" and didnt come up with anything.

 

Thanks for the feedback

 

I can tell you that if you put in the 3" blocks that your stock shock wont be able to hook up unless you compress the leaf springs. When you go over bumps the shocks will extend to their limit and you will feel it throughout the truck. You need to buy the extensions short term but longer rear shocks is the proper answer.

Posted
Im looking at adding the 3'' blocks to my truck here in the next couple weeks and on the readylift site I saw that they recommend shock extensions for the rear (http://www.readylift.com/p-362-rear-shock-...500-2wd4wd.aspx). Well it says recommended with off road use (which my truck wont really see). Just looking for opinions if you guys think I should add the extensions at the same time when I do the blocks. Would it be rare for them to "top out" or over extend with regular driving? I searched "shock extensions" and didnt come up with anything.

 

Thanks for the feedback

 

I can tell you that if you put in the 3" blocks that your stock shock wont be able to hook up unless you compress the leaf springs. When you go over bumps the shocks will extend to their limit and you will feel it throughout the truck. You need to buy the extensions short term but longer rear shocks is the proper answer.

 

 

While I agree with you that longer shocks is the proper answer, relocating the mounting points (shock "extensions" I guess) would be fine. He would have the same amount of travel and keep a factory ride. Longer shocks would increase the travel of the shock, but without other suspension modifications to allow more travel, that really wouldn't matter (in my mind anyway).

Posted
Im looking at adding the 3'' blocks to my truck here in the next couple weeks and on the readylift site I saw that they recommend shock extensions for the rear (http://www.readylift.com/p-362-rear-shock-...500-2wd4wd.aspx). Well it says recommended with off road use (which my truck wont really see). Just looking for opinions if you guys think I should add the extensions at the same time when I do the blocks. Would it be rare for them to "top out" or over extend with regular driving? I searched "shock extensions" and didnt come up with anything.

 

Thanks for the feedback

 

From very recent and personal experience, I can tell you that you will need longer shocks or extensions (however, I never saw those extensions for the rear shocks. Those do look good & strong but quick and simple too). This past summer I installed new shocks in prep for towing my camping trailer. W/O even thinking about it I later added 3" ReadyLift axle blocks. I had the blocks laying around from an earlier purchase. It all looked great for my needs but then I drove it. It was like my Grandpa's old stiff frame Indian MC.

 

Still for 2 days I was in denial. I guess I thought 3" was not a big deal and should be able to be squeezed out of the stock rear suspension. Man was I wrong. I searched everywhere and no one I found offered any type extensions at the time. Those ReadyLift extensions must be fairly new. I sure wish I'd found those back in June. (I'd have saved a ton of money, still had my air shocks with working O/B air compressor, AND I would not have had to do the entire job twice, in the same month) The best info I found then was on Rancho's site. They have quite a selection of longer front and rear shocks based on the amount of lift added. They have them in both their high and low priced lines and do not really charge much more for a longer application. I had my local NAPA store check for me on such choices as Gabriel or Monroe both regular and air shocks but said neither made any shocks other than stock size. It basically boiled down to they'd love to have something to offer me but did not and that I should just go with the brand of my choice who makes an over-sized version for my truck. They mentioned Rancho, Rough Country and SkyJacker. I went with Rancho's RS 9000XLs in the end. Good luck and be careful. My back end was squirrely and jumped around a bit anytime I hit a deep gutter or big speed bump.

Jim

Posted

i have 3" blocks in the back of the yukon,, and the shocks did barely go back together but the ride sucks now. cant wait for new ones

Posted

Maybe ill just save myself some money and hold off on them then. Readylift sure doesnt explain all this info you guys gave me on the site. I was mainly getting the blocks for when I rarely have a load or my motorcycle in the back and thought it would look good to have the rear just a hair taller than the front when unloaded. Would the 2" blocks cause the same issues? And would the truck still sag with the 2" blocks?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • WOW, something we agreed on. I only bought at sticker twice. A 94 impala ss and an Acura intagra type r. Made money on the first. Still have the second.
    • I prefer new, but not without a deal. Historically I've bought severely aged new inventory, leftover model year, unpopular configuration kind of stuff that sits around on dealer lots until they just want it gone. $10k off MSRP kind of stuff on a mid-priced truck. That really, really helps knock down that first year depreciation. It also requires being somewhat flexible on colors and options. I wouldn't buy a 4 cylinder if I was looking for an 8 cylinder, but if I got blue paint instead of black, or a great deal was lacking a minor option, I'm willing to overlook those things for savings.   Used <> used. Condition and history are everything. If I'm buying used I'm looking for cream of the crop. The truck from the guy who religiously pampers it, and then decides a year later he wants newer and nicer. NOT the ex-rental vehicle, or the crew cab traded in by the family with 7 kids who like to throw food, and the oil only got changed when there was time long after the oil life monitor started alerting.
    • @Grumpy Bear the conclusion from your post about doubling engine life has me curious. Are we literally talking an expected life of 250,000 miles potentially becomes 500,000 miles with a step up in filtration for fresh oil at "the oil factory" when it's bottled? I know you said that's a single variable among many, but, that's significant if the implication extends that far into a real world use case. I would think the oil marketing folks would really eat that up and make it known.   Particles introduced during oil change is a fairly easy one to avoid, but probably not intuitive as one would think. I.e. using a clean funnel. But...what was it wiped with? Paper towel leaves behind little fibers. A solvent if not dried is not something one would want to introduce into their engine with clean oil. And, keeping the oil filler neck clean and free of buildup.. Look at some guys engine bays and they're an absolute mess. Some say that's better than the drawbacks of cleaning it. I'm not a buyer of that idea.   I've also wondered if "flooding" the top end of the engine with oil while filling is a bad idea. During normal lubrication the oil flows in a gutter back into the galleys. But if you flood the area you're potentially washing the top of the rockers, springs, and other areas which may not get much oil wash normally, and you're mixing all that into the new oil. I just don't have the patience to pour slowly. 😆    
    • It was a bad pump, i had a dealer next day the pump. Gm part #86591535. Tools needed 10mm socket, pliers for hose clamps, 1/2gal of Dexcool. About 30mins to remove and install, pump located near oil filter on driver's side frame rail. I had a local mobile mechanic delete the code, he had a snap on scan tool. My scanner could not delete the code. I drove back home about 700 miles since then, and no check engine light. Hope this helps someone in the future in the same situation i was in. Thank you to all that helped me.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...