Jump to content

Changed Idler And Pitman Arm

Shawn T

Recommended Posts

Shawn T Enthusiast

Shawn T

Posted
Posted

I replaced my worn idler and pitman arms over the weekend with Moog replacement parts. The OEM parts seem to be garbage so I thought I'd try something new. The difference in the steering is quite noticable. Even though I went from worn to new parts, the steering seems much tighter than the day I bought the truck. The moog parts are supposed to have a more robust bearing in the idler arm. I don't see any distinguisable differences but wow does it drive better. Oh yeah, GM sure made it convenient to change them out, not. There is a strategically placed, welded crossmember just below the nuts on the arms themselves. I had to break them with the old fashioned style ball joint separators rather than the clamp style with the stud. An impact with the forked style might work but I doubt it. You need some tremendous force to break them apart. Sorry for the rant, but if anybody does this at home there are a few tricks to make it go smoother. I had to find everything out the hard way.

matsrat Enthusiast

matsrat

Posted
Posted

i replaced both on my 01 gmc 2500hd. on the pitman arm, once i had the nut off, i used a cut-off wheel and cut into the pitman arm to weaken the tight fit on the shaft. then used a airhammer on the pitman arm. came right off.

revrnd Senior Enthusiast

revrnd

Posted
Posted
I replaced my worn idler and pitman arms over the weekend with Moog replacement parts. The OEM parts seem to be garbage so I thought I'd try something new. The difference in the steering is quite noticable. Even though I went from worn to new parts, the steering seems much tighter than the day I bought the truck.

 

Nothing against the Moog parts, I've had them installed on my trucks in the past, but I think replacing the worn parts has made more of a difference in your steering than the design of the Moog parts.

 

Did you get the front end aligned afterwards? When was the truck last aligned?

Shawn T Enthusiast

Shawn T

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I replaced my worn idler and pitman arms over the weekend with Moog replacement parts. The OEM parts seem to be garbage so I thought I'd try something new. The difference in the steering is quite noticable. Even though I went from worn to new parts, the steering seems much tighter than the day I bought the truck.

 

Nothing against the Moog parts, I've had them installed on my trucks in the past, but I think replacing the worn parts has made more of a difference in your steering than the design of the Moog parts.

 

Did you get the front end aligned afterwards? When was the truck last aligned?

 

 

You are probably right, but I think they are trying to do the best with a horrible design. It has been 3 years, since I last bought tires, and it definitely needs an alignment now after the replacement. The wheel is cocked a hair to the right and it pulls a little that way also. I have already made an appointment to get it aligned on Saturday. Funny, after looking around in my buddy's shop I found and air hammer with a fork tongue on it. That would have been awesome. Also, how do you put a torque wrench on the idler arm? You need to have the allen wrench on the end to stop the stud from turning. The nut dead-heads after the ball joint is seated, and I just gave it about 42 ft/lbs of elbow grease on the last turn with and open end wrench.

8.1HD/ALLISON Senior Enthusiast

8.1HD/ALLISON

Posted
Posted

GM tells you to remove the steering gearbox to put a new pitman arm on. Sounds like a big pain in the butt, not too bad if you have access to a lift.

Shawn T Enthusiast

Shawn T

Posted
  • Author
Posted
GM tells you to remove the steering gearbox to put a new pitman arm on. Sounds like a big pain in the butt, not too bad if you have access to a lift.

 

It's a PITA! Yes, you do have to remove the bolts from the steering gear and prop it up so you can get the clearance to attach the pitman arm pulling tool between it and the crossmember. I lined one of the bottom bolt holes of the gear with the upper bolt hole on the frame and bolted it in. You need it steady to crank on the puller, plus I had to add some heat to it with a rosebud. It's right against a rubber bushing, so the heat has to be very minimal. I know why the dealership wanted $400 in labor for the job. I also had access to a lift. That is the only way it's worth doing on your own. Also, air tools are a must and an air chisel with the ball joint fork attachments will save alot of cursing and elbow grease.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,859
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    needafix
    Newest Member
    needafix
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 588 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • needafix
      Brake Bleed Procedure

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a reply on this thread or a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles. When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so i did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance.
    • KARNUT
      Slate Electric Truck

      By KARNUT · Posted

      I wasn’t commenting on your post. Certainly wasn’t arguing. I was making an observation on my long term experience with supposedly proper length of driving for proper heat cycles. Works for me. Although I have seen water or vapor come out of exhaust when vehicles weren’t run very long and shut off. It’s very humid in the morning. Then hot and humid. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Slate Electric Truck

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Not what I said but I can work with it anyway. Complete combustion produces CO2 and H20. When it's cold enough you can 'see' it as water vapor but it is always there and more so the better the tune up. It's physics, not an argument. In a cold motor when the cylinder jacket is below the condensation temperature the water goes to the pan and not the PCV system. Heating the oil moves it from liquid to vapor where it is removed by the PCV system. When and how much depends on temperatures. Of the air, the water and so on. It has little to with the humidity. Water is a combustion product.  
    • Chuck FB
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I can only guess as well that something was clicked on that brought you to the half ton choices by accident. By all means try again and chose the 3500 and sort out that its the cab and box configuration you want and choose four wheel drive ( rather obvious to have a transfer case ) and to make sure the dually isn't chosen. I find or at least did a couple of years ago when I was sifting through the options that it would sometimes jump ahead after choosing the series of truck and in this case 3500 and skip some of the other initial configuration choices and have to watch the heading bar and sometimes back up by choosing the first in the series of option break downs. I think sometimes the computer will remember items that were last chosen and skip over the first part. Anyway go through it all and depending on the trim level chosen and I think the LT is one that may fall into that where the option of having the 4 high auto transfer case can be chosen, where as a High Country doesn't show that option as it just comes with the fancier ( not necessarily better though in terms of potential problems ) transfer case but for sure both transfer case choices are equipped with high and low range in the HD truck segment. Like Newdude said who works at a dealership, its the half tons that are the ones that will come with the single speed unless certain options or trim levels are chosen that add the two speed transfer case but as your looking at an HD, you don't have to worry about that hot mess.    One item that at least didn't show up and not sure if it does yet or not in the HD options on the manufactures pubic website is the upfitter in cab switch option if one is desiring that. Unfortunately its not wired in at the factory but the panel with the switches is on the dash but the wiring harness to be installed gets tossed under the rear seat to be installed by whomever after the fact to complete the installation. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Yesterday we brought home a 6yr  old Havanese dog from a nearby SPCA.  We've had her for 24 hours and we are delighted with how well she is adjusting to her new home.  It  was a huge decision to adopt a dog at this stage in our lives but we believe we made the right choice!   it was reported that her first 6 years were ones of neglect.  I think she's already realizing her life is going to get a whole lot better...  so is ours!    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...