Brake Rotors And Pads

[tanked_darren]

Screw factory GMT-900 1/2 ton rotors!

I know theres a ton of threads on brakes but I want opinions.

 

Im changing my rotors as they've warped a second time. I won't buy chinese made rotors, now the decision is whether or not to get slotted rotors... is there really a difference? The price difference is and extra $40 a side ($80) at least.

 

 

Also Im going to do the pads so everything is new, I have semi-metallics on there now from the last time I had to resurface the factory junk rotors. OEM calls for ceramic, I want what is best for the rotors as I do not want them to warp again.

 

 

 

Please no comments about how I should change my driving habits I know how brakes can get ruined by certain habits

[Pumper]

I am looking for the same info.

 

Let the information flow!

[hillbilly4u]

I tow and haul a lot. I use Wagoner Thermo Quiets and good quality Raybestos rotors. Ceramics last longer and have less dust, but heat up more. A good bed in is needed too or they won't last. I'm sure there are diff opinions, but these work the best for me.

[tanked_darren]

I tow and haul a lot. I use Wagoner Thermo Quiets and good quality Raybestos rotors. Ceramics last longer and have less dust, but heat up more. A good bed in is needed too or they won't last. I'm sure there are diff opinions, but these work the best for me.

 

Ok so what material are the pads? Ceramic? I don't want heat I go down hills when Im hunting so I want the best pads for my rotors regardless of stopping ability.

[Spurshot]

"...the best pads for ... rotors..." That would be a soft organic pad. A soft organic pad might not give you the fade resistance that a semi-metallic, metallic, carbon, carbon-organic, ceramic, or carbon-metallic will give. Nor will it give the longest pad life. But, the rotor will last a long time.

 

Rotors don't warp from the type of pad. They warp from either:

a) asymetric residual stresses in the rotor created during manufacture that weren't properly relieved during "stress relief" processing, or

b) asymetric stresses introduced during use

 

I think most of the issues we are dealing with are caused from manufacturing residual stresses not properly relieved.

 

"I dont want heat..." Sorry, heat is what is generated when the conversion of the kinetic energy of the vehicle's inertia (moving mass) is converted to another form (heat). The materials we select for the brake system just need to deal with it. Don't brake hard if you don't want a lot of heat.

 

I've heard some opinions where some said not to turn a stock rotor because they'll just warp again. Maybe. But it's less likely after it has warped once. This is because some of the stresses have been relieved during the warping.

[Stevens03]

So far I've gotten 2 sets of Eagle slotted/cross drilled rotors off ebay that come with "HD" ceramic pads for $179 delivered. Years of good service without issue. I took the set off my Vmax and will install on my 2011 when the times due.

[441G]

these are the part numbers we are using on our fleet - NAPA PAD UP7997X - NAPA ROTORS 880279 - they must be good brakes because we are hard on them and have had no complaints

[hillbilly4u]

these are the part numbers we are using on our fleet - NAPA PAD UP7997X - NAPA ROTORS 880279 - they must be good brakes because we are hard on them and have had no complaints

 

 

I have used NAPA rotors and the blue NAPA pads with good results. Bed them in after the install and you'll have better longevity. Most prob know what bedding means, but if you don't heres how. Do 6 hard stops. 0 to 10, 0 to 20, 0 to 30 and so on. On the last stop they will be fading pretty good. Then drive around trying not to use your brakes till they cool.

[Spurshot]

I just bought some EBC slotted and dimpled front rotors for my 08 Vmax and some Hawk Performance Ceramic pads. I think this is the same setup that Frank (Grumpy Aero Guy) has and is happy.

 

I'm just waiting for some of that sunny SoCal weather to come back to change them out.