Jump to content

Changed Shocks=abs+stabilitrak+trac Control Problems?

dzl13
 Share

Recommended Posts

kaddman New Member

kaddman

Posted
Posted

Ok just replaced my air ride rear shocks with rebuilt Arnot. Not to bad but the darn top bolt on the passenger side was hard to get the socket on. In the event of trying to get the socket in to hold the bolt among the lines that run through there, I must have unplugged a wire that has the female end attached to the top of the frame rail. I didn't know this at first so when I started it up the ABS and traction control light came on. After reading this page went back in and found it hanging there and plugged it back in. No more service lights.

 

2007 GMC Denali

  • 1 year later...
alleyboy57 New Member

alleyboy57

Posted
Posted

This also happened to me last night. (08 Yukon SLT-no autoride-135000 miles) I changed the the rear shocks and ABS and Stabilitrak Lights came on. I did find and reconnect a connector on top of the frame. This is near the top bolt head of the shock. (passenger side rear wheel) It's an oval shaped connector. Even after reconnect the lights are sitll on.

 

I did not see a resolution to the orignal post. Is there another wire i could have knocked off? Any help would be appreciated.

Gurrzt Enthusiast

Gurrzt

Posted
Posted

I don't think any part of the leveling would have caused the warning lights. I think its more probable, that there is a sensor that is disconnected dealing with ABS.

+1 on this.

  • 1 year later...
ketel1and7 New Member

ketel1and7

Posted
Posted

I created an account just so I can answer this question. The plug for the Rear Driver side ABS sensor is directly behind the top bolt of the rear driver side Shock. When removing the bolt, it is very easy to disconnect the ABS sensor without realizing it. If you follow the cable from your rear driver side caliper or simply feel around behind the top of the shock, you'll find the plug. No need to remove tire or anything. Just crawl under to verify if it's connected.

 

Good luck to anyone finding this.

  • 1 year later...
Jason Schrader New Member

Jason Schrader

Posted
Posted

I replaced shocks on a 2010 Tahoe today. What I discovered is the speed sensors for the rear wheels have a plastic disconnect coupling right next to the upper shock mounting bolt. So, when you pull on your ratchet or torque wrench, the socket or extension tends to press down on the release tab and causes the speed sensor connector to come apart. Just follow both rear speed sensor wires back to that plastic connector and plug it (or them) back in. Poor design on GM's part. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Morgan Walker New Member

Morgan Walker

Posted
Posted

I know this post is 7 years old now.  But here I am in 2018 using this post for guidance so I'm putting my 2 cents in because I had the exact problem as the original guy.  Took my 2009 Cadillac Escalade in to get new rear shocks.  When I got it back the lead mechanic told me the ABS light is on and the Stability control light.  He had reset the computer, if they come back on, bring it back it might be a bad sensor... OK, the lights came on before I even left the shop and stayed on for the following day.  Took it back.  He said all I can do is try to reset the computer again, if that doesn't work we'll get you a new sensor: about $250 bucks he says.  Well after researching, he must've meant new sensors for all the wheels bc those things are only 50 bucks each.  Anyway, so I Youtube'd "ABS on after shock replacement" learned where to look and all that (read this forum as well)...  Short story long.  THE ABS SENSOR WAS NOT PLUGGED IN ON BOTH ENDS.  

 

So for those of you not mechanically inclined, like myself.... check that first.

  • 9 months later...
Jskinner New Member

Jskinner

Posted
Posted

This posting really helped me out tonight. I have a 2014 Suburban and had the abs and traction control light come on after replacing the rear shocks. Sure enough after reading this article I found that the wheel speed sensor had become unplugged on the passenger side rear. It is located directly on top of the frame rail right where you struggle to get a socket into to remove the upper shock bolt. I plugged it back in and the lights went out as soon as I started it again. 

  • 5 months later...
Hydrohst New Member

Hydrohst

Posted
Posted

I have 2007 TAHOE had same issue after changing rear shocks and front struts with stabilitrak and abs lights staying on.  Just went back and retraced and I accidentally unplugged the harness when removing top bolt on driver side rear shock.  Plugged harness back up and all lights are off now.  Thanks for posting previous outcomes, I was at a loss of what problem was.

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 year later...
Gargalope New Member

Gargalope

Posted
Posted (edited)

I know I'm like a decade late on this but I have the same problem!  My husband changed both back shocks AND reset the battery and both lights stay on! No change in driving or breaking! I just want the damn lights off the dash! HELP!!!!

Edited by Gargalope
  • 7 months later...
DaveHrter New Member

DaveHrter

Posted
Posted

Just had the exact same issue replaced both rear shocks on my 08 suburban.  Started it up n had abs and stabitrak light on. Pulled in back in the garage and found out that while removing the top drivers side shock bolt. I somehow managed to unplug the Delphi style plug on top of the frame rail. Plugged it back in and everything is back to normal.  Hope this helps someone like this thread helped me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...