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2010 Silverado 5.3 Oil Drain Plug

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chevytruckin08WNY Enthusiast

chevytruckin08WNY

Posted
Posted

Speaking of drainplugs and such...

I just bought a new oem drain plug for my truck that I'll put in next diy oil change. Around 3 bucks at the dealer. Seems as though the rubber seal gets compressed, hardens, or wears out after being overtightened a few times. Last time I changed my oil I noticed that it's almost down to metal on metal between the plug and the pan. Just did'nt feel right so I bought a new one. It does'nt leak as far as I know, just playing it safe.

 

I use a standard household D-shaped Rubbermaid 2.5 gallon bucket to drain into. It's height brings it up closer to the drain hole than a pan and it's also easier to empty used oil into a jug for recycling. Now that I've done the majority of the oil changes on this truck myself, I've got it down to one or two drops on the blacktop.

:P

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 32
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amc31b Enthusiast

amc31b

Posted
Posted

A big thanks to hammerhead for the drain plug bolt size! I did my first oil change recently and replaced the stock drain plug with one of the magnetic tipped aftermarket ones. I also picked up some extra seals for it, now I am good to go!

Advance auto has them for $5.99, check them out! They look a lot like factory except for different markings, a smaller 13MM hex and the strong magnet on the tip of course. The seal fits inside the flange just like the stock part and they even sell replacment seals for them too!

I recommend this little mod to anyone that changes their own oil. It is a nice, cheap upgrade with good peice of mind that you can replace the seals as they get worn out like the above poster said. I hope this helps somebody!

  • 1 month later...
msm10301 New Member

msm10301

Posted
Posted

For the oil filter, loosen it with a filter wrench, then punch the bottom with a center punch. After its drained take a zip lock bag and place it over the filter. Unscrew it the rest of the way and seal the bag, it keeps everything very clean.

  • 9 months later...
Polaris Rider Enthusiast

Polaris Rider

Posted
Posted

I have a small foot-pounds torque wrench, I use it to put my plug back on, it wastes no extra time to use, and that way I know its done right.

 

NO to the never-sieze

 

 

Do you know what that torque spec is off hand? I prefer to use a torque wrench on mine too. I need to change the oil in my 2011 Sierra 5.3 soon.

 

Edit: How many grease fittings are on this truck? I figure I'd do those too while I'm at it.

fixithud Enthusiast

fixithud

Posted
Posted
anyone know the thread pitch on the drain plug so when I change mine for the first time I can install one of these:

 

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

 

I like that idea, its something I see on the D-10 Caterpillars at my work, but that being said they have pipe plugs on the end as well incase it fails, where these it does not look like they do. If they are not capped off as well, my advice would be to pass.

 

 

 

I have a 1995 Ford with a powerstroke and I have put over 150,000 miles on it since I installed my oil drain valve. It is a quality product, nice tight fit in the valve and it has a lock for the lever. Even if the lever fell off I think the fit in the ball valve is so nice that it wouldn't open.

 

The few times that I have had my local shop change the oil in it, I was there for tires or inspection, the mechanics commented on why don't all cars have this thing.

 

Hud

Hud

Polaris Rider Enthusiast

Polaris Rider

Posted
Posted

I found the two grease fittings on the steering arm. Are there any others I'm missing?

 

Anybody have a way of looking up the torque spec of the drain plug? I searched it and found a couple different numbers.

 

That quick drain is pretty cool but I only do about 2 oil changes per year so it's not a big deal to pull the plug. I could see how that would be handy if you were doing a lot of traveling though.

gnet158 Senior Enthusiast

gnet158

Posted
Posted

If you still have a factory "blue" oil filter get ready. Mine was a PITA to remove, a trick you might also want to try is place a black trash bag under the oil container and extend it as far as it will go towards the pass door. It will save your floor. Use good oil and an even better oil filter.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

I found the two grease fittings on the steering arm. Are there any others I'm missing?

 

Anybody have a way of looking up the torque spec of the drain plug? I searched it and found a couple different numbers.

 

That quick drain is pretty cool but I only do about 2 oil changes per year so it's not a big deal to pull the plug. I could see how that would be handy if you were doing a lot of traveling though.

 

 

On 1500 trucks there are only 2 fittings, one on each outer tie rod end. As for the drain plug, its 18 ft.lbs (25 N-m). And according to your previous post, you have a 2011? Go for a Dexos1 approved oil, wether it be Dexos itself from your dealer or mobil1, etc. http://www.gmdexos.c...nsedbrands.html Dexos1 is factory fill.

NHSilverado Enthusiast

NHSilverado

Posted
Posted

I have just over 1700 on my 2011 and plan on changing out the factory fill this weekend....2 questions....do most of you do changes with truck on ground or use ramps? Also does the oil shoot as far over as the tire? I have a 10 quart pan that I usually use. With an aluminum tray underneath it for spills

 

This will be my fir oil change on a Silverado, looks pretty straight forward?

Polaris Rider Enthusiast

Polaris Rider

Posted
Posted

Yes mine is a 2011 Sierra so it does take the dexos oil. I had the dealer do the first oil change because it was free so hopefully the filter isn't too tight. You never know about the dealer mechanics though so we'll see. It looks pretty straight forward. I picked up another AC Delco filter for it. Are the AC Delco filters just as good as any of them or is there another "better" one? I've read some good things about the NAPA gold or Wix filter. I'm sure the AC Delco one is okay if it's OEM but if there's something better out there I'm open to suggestions.

 

Thanks for the torque spec and grease fitting info newdude!

NHSilverado Enthusiast

NHSilverado

Posted
Posted

Wix is good, Purolater, Bosch A/C Delco is just fine. I'd just stay away from the FRAM orange cans. I bought the PF48 A/C one for my first change ....3.97 at Wally World. Good price for a good filter

Polaris Rider Enthusiast

Polaris Rider

Posted
Posted

I did the same thing, picked up an AC Delco filter from Walmart yesterday. Price was cheaper than anywhere else.

 

What does your dealer charge for the AC Delco dexos oil or are you going to use something else in it?

NHSilverado Enthusiast

NHSilverado

Posted
Posted

I'm not sure what dealer charges but I saw the A/C Delco dexos1 quarts at a parts store (VIP Auto) and they were 4.50 a quart. I'm going to use Pennzoil Platinum.

 

 

Questions for those that have changed their oil...does the oil stream hit any parts of the undercarriage while emptying? It looks like it could hit a part of the frame which would make a nice mess lol

BigBlueLB756 Senior Enthusiast

BigBlueLB756

Posted
Posted

I took an empty washer fluid bottle and cut out part of the bottom and side to make a diverter funnel with a handle to hold up and catch the stream of oil and direct it down into the bucket instead of the frame and the garage floor.

 

Another cheap-*ss mod.

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