Jump to content

Upgrade To New Struts With Ccm Level

dirtracer455

Recommended Posts

dirtracer455 Enthusiast

dirtracer455

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

 

I have an '08 NNBS Silv which currently has the CCM 2.5'' lvl kit and 33'' tires (285-70-17)

 

I have been very happy with the set-up and height so far. After having put almost 25,000 miles on my truck while running this set-up, I am considering upgrading my front end suspension set-up. I am happy with the current height (2.5'' lift), but was wondering what my options were as far as potentially improving my front end suspension performance.

 

Some of the options I am considering are:

 

-Upgrading to bilstein shocks?

-Replacing the strut towers themselves?

 

I am very open to suggestions and would appreciate any advice you can give me!

 

Thanks

 

 

Mike

ZmanZ71 Enthusiast

ZmanZ71

Posted
Posted

Since you already have the level and are happy with the height I would definately just add bilstein shocks all around. The ride great and are much better than any oem set up. That way you get the best of both worlds, a good shock/strut and the level!

dlewis1111 Senior Enthusiast

dlewis1111

Posted
Posted
Since you already have the level and are happy with the height I would definately just add bilstein shocks all around. The ride great and are much better than any oem set up. That way you get the best of both worlds, a good shock/strut and the level!

 

+1000000000 to this. Bilstein products are wonderful.

mhenshaw Senior Enthusiast

mhenshaw

Posted
Posted
Do you guys think a Bilstein shock set-up will work with he factory strut, and the CCM leveling kit?

 

 

p05.jpg

 

You have a factory strut that you will replace with a Bilstein strut. The CCM kit gets mounted to the top of the Bilstein strut.

dirtracer455 Enthusiast

dirtracer455

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OOOO I see,

 

I was under the impression that "strut" meant both the shock and the coil over around it.

So I would be keeping the stock springs in the front, and only replacing the inside with Bilstein's?

 

Also, is it a labor intensive job to make this change? I did the level kit myself, but just removed the whole shock tower as a whole.

 

 

Thanks

mhenshaw Senior Enthusiast

mhenshaw

Posted
Posted

You remove the strut tower to install the new strut. But you need a spring compressor and be very careful not to kill yourself when taking the coil off the strut.

 

I always take them off my truck and take the strut assembly to a shop and let them do it. They have a wall mounted spring compressor.

dirtracer455 Enthusiast

dirtracer455

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You remove the strut tower to install the new strut. But you need a spring compressor and be very careful not to kill yourself when taking the coil off the strut.

 

I always take them off my truck and take the strut assembly to a shop and let them do it. They have a wall mounted spring compressor.

 

Hey Nadie, I see you are running Bilsteins yourself. Can I ask which model you have?

Just browsing online I saw these..Bilstein 4600 Series Any good for the price?

 

Also random question--for like two years I have been considering the Blackbear tune. I even emailed the guy about it haha. Would you say overall it is completely worth it? Im not dragging my truck or anything, but I have heard that it is beneficial especially since I have an intake and exhaust kit. Any advice?

dirtracer455 Enthusiast

dirtracer455

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You will want the 5100 non adjustables, They are hands down the best ones (5100's)

 

All shocks has the best price for bilstiens.

 

I could also consider the option of removing the 2.5'' CCM spacer that I put on and getting the adjustables right?

dirtracer455 Enthusiast

dirtracer455

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok thanks for that Brian,

 

Just wondering do the 5100's perform any better at one particular position over another?

 

Thanks

jro909 Senior Enthusiast

jro909

Posted
Posted

300 bucks for 4 bilstein hds..lifetime warranty..stiffer then a telephone pole but gives a nice truck ride

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...