Jump to content

Belt Squeal

jdewolfe

Recommended Posts

jdewolfe Enthusiast

jdewolfe

Posted
Posted

Hey guys- I know there are a million threads out there for the Goodyear Gatorback belts. I looked through a ton of them, but couldn't find the part number I need for my truck. Can someone help me out? Summit's website is telling me one thing while Amazon tells me another. I called my local car parts stores and none of them carry the gatorback belt. I would appreciate it!!

 

2006 GMC Sierra SLT 1500 5.3L v8. Let me know if you need to know anything else. I'm unsure of the alternator on it. I can run and look if needed.

 

Thanks!

Jeff

jdewolfe Enthusiast

jdewolfe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies. Do you know what the number is for the A/C belt too? I'll just replace em both right away.

 

Thanks again! I appreciate it.

 

Jeff

GasHog369 Senior Enthusiast

GasHog369

Posted
Posted

I just replaced mine a month ago or so..

 

Heres the guide i followed

 

But after reading many , many topics before i attempted this, a lot of other people said the squeel happened to be in the tensioner pulley... So i ended up replacing the tensioner pulley for serp, and ac.. along with pulley to.

 

I was going to use the gatorback belt but no stores local had them, and i had a 10% coupon for advanced auto, so i went with the dayco, and am happy with the outcome! She sounds likes shes brand new again!

burnthefurniture Enthusiast

burnthefurniture

Posted
Posted

Mine was recently making a squeak in the morning when i first started it up. The regular serpentine belt was in great shape, and the tensioner looked and felt fine. On the other than, my A/C tensioner was shot, and my A/C belt was beginning to crack. Fixed those up with new parts and good to go.

Gone Again Enthusiast

Gone Again

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the replies. Do you know what the number is for the A/C belt too? I'll just replace em both right away.

 

Thanks again! I appreciate it.

 

Jeff

 

AC belt# 4040377

jdewolfe Enthusiast

jdewolfe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks again guys. How can you tell if the tensioner is shot? Can you tell by spinning it when you get the belts off? I'll be sure to check them when I get replacement belts ordered. I need to figure out what alternator I have yet.

tylerjenkins92@aol.com Senior Enthusiast

[email protected]

Posted
Posted
Thanks again guys. How can you tell if the tensioner is shot? Can you tell by spinning it when you get the belts off? I'll be sure to check them when I get replacement belts ordered. I need to figure out what alternator I have yet.

 

Post up your vin and we can run it and see. but more than likely if you have efans you have the big alt.

jdewolfe Enthusiast

jdewolfe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just ran the vin decoder. Looks like it is the 145 amp one. Thanks again for all of your help guys! Greatly appreciated.

jdewolfe Enthusiast

jdewolfe

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Belts are all ordered from Amazon since no one local sells them. I'll be sure to check the tensioner and other pulleys when I get the belts off and replace them as necessary. Thanks again for everyones help!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • GMCustomerService
      2026 Z71 Forward and Rear Park Assist help

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...