Jump to content

Cluster Engine Hours


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi guys. Not been on in ages. I am now a GM owner again and I have a question. A week ago I purchased a 2007 Sierra CC 5.3 AFM 4spd 3:73 Z71 4x4 SLT loaded up. I noticed yesterday that the timer had not been used or it had been paused at 0 and the engine hours also only shows 5.3 hours and the mileage is 39,442. You obviously cannot travel 40k miles almost in 5.3 hours. The engine hours seems to be counting now since I have played with it. Is this something that should work this way or has it been defective or something? Should I contact the dealer or just let this go? The truck looks brand spankin new and has deff been taken care of but I never noticed the hour issue when I decided to purchase.

 

Any tips, ideas or suggestions welcomed!

Posted

Wow! Two trucks in one week with false hours! My buddy was just looking at buying a truck but when he took it to a mechanic and showed him the hour meter, the mechanic said "NO WAY!" someone had been screwing with the computers. Looks like it was a plow truck which sat idling a lot so they normally have very high engine hours. He said all the signs were there that it had a plow and salt spreader so my buddy dropped it like a hot spud.

 

I may be wrong (the wife says I am wrong all the time) but the engine hours isn't something that should be easily changed. If I were you, I would delve a little deeper...

Posted

This is a one owner lease and the miles match the condition of the truck. I just dont understand how it could have went that long and not recorded hours. Im going to try and get the phone number to the previous owner.

Posted

yep, low battery will make it reset to zero. The hour meter is simply a component of the dash cluster and not tied to any of the computers. Mileage on the other hand is just what it says are can't be screwed with.

Posted

yeah search and you see that it is not uncommon. My wifes denali resets once in a while. Our tahoe and my sierra dont do it.

Posted

Ok, I feel better now. The truck died on me twice since Ihave had it. I sat in it playing with stuff inside and ran the batt down twice. It seemed like it didnt last too long so I went ahead and upgraded the batt. Thanks for the info guys!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 842 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...