Jump to content

Slowwwwww A/c Leak


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have slow leak in my A/C system that 2 shops could not diagnose. I'm going to bite the bullet and replace the condenser. The compressor works fine. Should I use GM or aftermarket parts? Do I need to replace the drier and orifice tube filter at the same time?

Posted
I have slow leak in my A/C system that 2 shops could not diagnose. I'm going to bite the bullet and replace the condenser. The compressor works fine. Should I use GM or aftermarket parts? Do I need to replace the drier and orifice tube filter at the same time?

Are you sure that it is the condenser that is leaking? I would hate to go thru the hassle of replacing that, to find that there are other issues.

 

I would replace any filters and driers while you have the system apart and the charge out. Once the system is closed up again, be sure they do a thorough evacuation on it to get all the moisture and air out.

Posted

the leak is probably coming from the compressor shaft, the condenser is easy to diagnose with soapy water if pressure tested. Replacing the orifice tube and drier is not completely necessary, i usually only replace them if there is a complete line that blows off or if the failure is near the two mentioned parts. The orifice tube is about $5 and the drier can be anywhere from $50 to $200 dollars. You could buy either gm or after market it dosen't really matter.

Posted

It seems to me that if they put dye in the system (did they put dye in it). And it leaked out you would be able to see where the leak is.

Posted

They put dye in the system and I observed them checking it with the sniffer. They checked every fitting, hose, etc. I'm wondering about a possible leak at either the low/high pressure schrader valve core. Do these leak? I know they didn't check the compressor shaft seal. Once the system is charged, it takes a little over a year before I loose the A/C which makes it difficult. I'll take it back and have the shop check the compressor. Thanks for everyone's help.

Posted
They put dye in the system and I observed them checking it with the sniffer. They checked every fitting, hose, etc. I'm wondering about a possible leak at either the low/high pressure schrader valve core. Do these leak? I know they didn't check the compressor shaft seal. Once the system is charged, it takes a little over a year before I loose the A/C which makes it difficult. I'll take it back and have the shop check the compressor. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

You don't check dye with a sniffer. A sniffer smells the freon. With dye You use a black light. And you will see a fluorescent reflection from the dye where it is leaking from the system. It stands out like a like a sore thumb.

Posted
They put dye in the system and I observed them checking it with the sniffer. They checked every fitting, hose, etc. I'm wondering about a possible leak at either the low/high pressure schrader valve core. Do these leak? I know they didn't check the compressor shaft seal. Once the system is charged, it takes a little over a year before I loose the A/C which makes it difficult. I'll take it back and have the shop check the compressor. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

You don't check dye with a sniffer. A sniffer smells the freon. With dye You use a black light. And you will see a fluorescent reflection from the dye where it is leaking from the system. It stands out like a like a sore thumb.

 

 

Leave me correct myself before someone else does. The light is called a UV light. We have a habit of calling it a Black Light. FYI you can also put dye into your oil, cooling systems and transmissions to find a leak.

Posted

I wouldn't start just changing parts, you are just making random guesses as to where it will leak. I've had a leaking compressor shaft seal before, it was diagnosed by a shop.

 

They do make freon with leak stop, if the leak is that should take care of the issue. I hate using "leak stop" stuff because it's possible to damage other things, but what the hell, your next option was to change random parts anyway...

Posted

If it takes a year to loose charge, just put in a can of freon every spring. Lots cheaper than changing A/C parts. But, I've heard that the GM compressors are known for leaking at the mating seem between the two halves of the compressor. The dye should show that if it's the case.

  • 2 years later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Disassembly may be Required!   Every blender makes claims but do  you ponder those claims? What was really said? Was it true?  Motive for saying it? What does in infer?  Is that inference true?    Let's do one.    Claim: Made from shear stable base oils.    What was said: Base Oils are shear proof.   Was it true: Yes.  ALL base oils are Newtonian.    Motive / Inference: To imply the fully formulated product is Shear Proof.    Is the Inference true?: Most fully formulated multigrade oils contain Viscosity Modifiers or VM's, sometimes called VII or Viscosity Index Improvers. There are four types. One is in fact shear proof but it also has a bad effect on extreme cold flow and is restricted to use in specialty oils. A second has limited shear called a 0-5 SSI polymer. Meaning its shear is limited to a range of zero to five percent as reported by the ASTM D6278 Shear Stability Index test. A few high end oils, like Torco SR-5, use them and brag about it profusely. Actually all that use it point it out. The last two shear dramatically and are often marketed as a 'feature' of the product aiding the oil to meet fuel standard requirements of ever stricter rules. One shears more than 5% and the other up to 20%. As you make guess, cost is directly linked to shear down and as such the majority of oils use the cheapest organic polymers sold to make grade and pass stringent tests.    PPD's or Pour Point Depressants also shear a bit, only a few percent and hide inside the 0-5 SSI capabilities.    The blender knows he can not out engineer Stribeck. Physics is not a suggestion. But he can wordcraft the unsuspecting toward believing a false claims INFERENCE. This is LEGAL. It is COMMON, and it is EFFECTIVE.         
    • I don't recall ever dealing with one on an '06 and back. It may not even exist on that. I can't remember for sure.   Any kind of ice in or after the evaporator is normally due to low charge with both a clutch-cycling orifice tube system, and a TXV system.
    • Engines wear. It is unavoidable. So the question isn't if it will wear out but rather WHEN it will wear out. That question is about rate and RATE is a HUGE problem for almost everyone; but not in the way we may think.    Unless there is something drastically wrong with your powertrain, wear is exceedingly slow. It doesn't wear out in minutes or hours or days or months but in years or even decades. Ditto sludge and varnish. Humans are an impatient lot so to see the benefit of a truly superior product you may have to wait a very long time. Most will get bored first and trade before they reap the benefit.   Humans are not companionate creatures when it comes to those we do not know. We don't care what happens to the second or third owner as long as it doesn't happen to us or someone we know and actually like.   Sad commentary on humans but it is what it is. That thus, then, there is no advantage...to or for you if the above paragraphs adequately describe you.    BUT if you are a buy and hold type and patient enough to reap the rewards of your labors then that thing that is happening that you haven't yet seen, but will; can be abated by such products. Seals harden and leak with time and lots of it. Rings stick after thousands of miles of a slowly building plaque of varnish.    Then there is this. This didn't happen over night and this poor fellow knew when he removed the cover and not one second before.   Not "aware' isn't the same thing as "isn't happening".        The above was typical of the Ford 361 and 391 bus motors on Bulk Pennzoil Mineral Oil products on 3K mile OCI's at about 60K miles back in the 60's and 70's at the Anamosa School District when my Uncle took over their maintenance program.    This is Pepper at @ 165K on 5K OCI's using Group IV/V Full Synthetics.      HM oils will help the first but not the second.    Then again if one used..... ah, ya know.....
    • Thanks for coming back with an update. 
    • Awesome you got it sorted! That's a new potential issue I'll have to mark in my book of issues. Thanks for the feedback.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...