Jump to content

Which Oil Filter Wrench Do You Use?

Austin83

Recommended Posts

Austin83 Enthusiast

Austin83

Posted
Posted

First off, I did do a search and couldn't come up with what I was looking for. I have a 08 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71, and everytime I battle with getting a grip on my Mobil 1 oil filter with a pair of channel locks. I only hand tighten my filters, but it's so hard to get a hold of the filter with where it is located. What wrench does everyone use to grab on to these tiny inaccessible filters???? There just isn't much room for a filter wrench. Of course, the oil filter wrench I use on my Jeep is way too big for these filters. I also don't intend on getting a K&N filter just because of the nut on it, but it would be nice of Mobil 1 did that. Any advice is appreciated.

amc31b Enthusiast

amc31b

Posted
Posted

I too hate how small the filters for this engine series is. AC delco recently released a larger filter for this application (Go to your dealer's parts department and ask for a PF-63) but it isn't availble as aftermarket yet. I use a strap wrench to remove the oil filter. They are availble from all the major tool suppliers and are pretty cheap. They have a wide range of uses and work great for removing the oil filter on our trucks. Just make sure to strap on to the very bottom of the filter and don't over tighten it.

BigBlueLB756 Senior Enthusiast

BigBlueLB756

Posted
Posted

You can take one of those band-type filter wrenches that seem to slip all the time, and with the addition of a strip of sandpaper or belt sander cloth glued to the inside of the band, end up with a pretty good way to get those stubborn filters off. Try it; you'll like it (and it's CHEAP!).

foghorn23 Senior Enthusiast

foghorn23

Posted
Posted

I couldn't disagree more about the filter location being difficult on these trucks. With a filter wrench like MS3Dale displayed (I have an el-cheapo version from Walmart) you couldn't ask for an easier oil change. Next time you're in Walmart, grap an AC PF48 off the shelf (since they already have them) and see which wrench fits the filter; the wrenches are usually hanging above the filters on a j-hook. You can do the same thing wherever you buy your Mobil1 filters. I assume the filter would be the same size as the Delco, but you can always check to be sure.

 

I've changed oil on lots of vehicles; I've burned myself on manifolds when the filter was located underneath. I've had to contort my arm/hand etc into places the human body was never designed to go. My dad had a 92 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 L V-6; I'd just as soon try to pull a grizzly bear's teeth as to try to get that filter off. My experience with F-150's I've owned hasn't been much better. And the last Tundra I owned used the cartridge filter and a series of O rings I could never get comfortable with. With these trucks there's all kinds of room (with the right tool) Plus with it spinning on with the baseplate up I can prefill the filter with oil before I put it on. I bet if you get a cup wrench, your opinion of the difficulty of the oil change will change. Again in my opinion GM couldn't have made it much easier. Good luck.

 

BTW I do agree it would be nice to see a little larger filter on these trucks, but I'll give the GM engineers the benefit of the doubt for now.

big_dawg74 Enthusiast

big_dawg74

Posted
Posted

+1 for the cup wrench, or use PureOne filters with the textured surface. Or, if I can reach the smooth surface of a non-P1, I will wrap a piece of sandpaper around it so my hand doesn't slip.

jwhjr Enthusiast

jwhjr

Posted
Posted
(Go to your dealer's parts department and ask for a PF-63) but it isn't availble as aftermarket yet.

 

Wix 57045 is the same and that is the one I have been using.

MikeNH Senior Enthusiast

MikeNH

Posted
Posted

I bought the cup-type when I had my 03, worked great then and still does on the 2011.

cariveau Enthusiast

cariveau

Posted
Posted
First off, I did do a search and couldn't come up with what I was looking for. I have a 08 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71, and everytime I battle with getting a grip on my Mobil 1 oil filter with a pair of channel locks. I only hand tighten my filters, but it's so hard to get a hold of the filter with where it is located. What wrench does everyone use to grab on to these tiny inaccessible filters???? There just isn't much room for a filter wrench. Of course, the oil filter wrench I use on my Jeep is way too big for these filters. I also don't intend on getting a K&N filter just because of the nut on it, but it would be nice of Mobil 1 did that. Any advice is appreciated.

 

 

I usually use the Fram tough guard filters and spin them off by hand. They have the black texture at the end.

 

http://www.fram.com/choose?next=%2Foil-fil...tough-guard.php

tanked_darren Senior Enthusiast

tanked_darren

Posted
Posted

I use the cup wrench at home, its a bit sloppy though, I went to the store there isn't a size that actually fits proper, anyways filter is never on that tight.

 

 

But at work I have a strap wrench of the rubber variety (westward), its the best, infact I would steal it if I didn't use it at work so much.

old-chevy-dude Senior Enthusiast

old-chevy-dude

Posted
Posted

belt strap:

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...r=1311008508344

 

 

your ratchet goes into the bottom..

 

it's the only one I have found that fits, even the cup type don't seem to grab very well because of the sidewall of the oil pan and the filter being recessed up into it..

 

 

though I think on the next change I am getting a filter relocation kit, it annoys me to spill oil on my driveway and not matter how I do it, I always manage to spill from the filter because there is no room for my hand to get up and grab it without it tilting.

Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted
belt strap:

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...r=1311008508344

 

 

your ratchet goes into the bottom..

 

it's the only one I have found that fits, even the cup type don't seem to grab very well because of the sidewall of the oil pan and the filter being recessed up into it..

 

 

though I think on the next change I am getting a filter relocation kit, it annoys me to spill oil on my driveway and not matter how I do it, I always manage to spill from the filter because there is no room for my hand to get up and grab it without it tilting.

 

 

The strap wrench is what I use. It works great on all size filters.

 

As for spilling oil. Next time you change the filter, once it is loose, slide a freezer zip-lock bag over it and then remove it. The zip-lock collects the oil and keeps your hands clean.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 423 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...