Jump to content

Engine Rebuild Or Buy Used?

cdehm

Recommended Posts

cdehm New Member

cdehm

Posted
Posted

I have a 2000 GMC Sonoma (odometer at 150,000) with the 4.3 vortec motor that just came apart, lost compression but still running after knocking for about 2 hours. No holes in the block that I can see and trying to get the motor out and take apart to see what the damage is and what it might take to rebuid. Right now I can't get the top two bolts from the transmission to the engine out because of the firewall being so close. Any suggestions? What I'm really wondering is what will it take to rebuild this motor and should I put the money into it or just go and buy a used motor?

GPSilverado Enthusiast

GPSilverado

Posted
Posted
I have a 2000 GMC Sonoma (odometer at 150,000) with the 4.3 vortec motor that just came apart, lost compression but still running after knocking for about 2 hours. No holes in the block that I can see and trying to get the motor out and take apart to see what the damage is and what it might take to rebuid. Right now I can't get the top two bolts from the transmission to the engine out because of the firewall being so close. Any suggestions? What I'm really wondering is what will it take to rebuild this motor and should I put the money into it or just go and buy a used motor?

 

In reference to the 2 bolts, most people raise the body up off the frame and put blocks between it to hold it up. That moves the firewall up out of your way. It really isn't that hard to do, although the few times I had to do it, I was working on a lift, and could use the lift to raise the body slightly.

 

As for the engine, rebuilding it may be more expensive that buying a remanufactured engine. Some used engines are pretty good, but a 2000 model is going to have lots of miles already, making it a gamble IMO.

tyhuck Senior Enthusiast

tyhuck

Posted
Posted

for me it would depend ona money on hand, and how long you can spare the truck not running. If you need it ASAP, then buy a running engine and drop it in place of the bad one. Then if money allows, you can have the old one rebuilt to replace the used one when it goes. Or, if you can spare the truck to be down a while, go ahead and have the original motor rebuilt. That will save you the cost of a used engine, if you think abou it like I did.

 

But, if money is not a restriction, drop 10K on it and put in a 96-98 Vortec 350 in it. fairly easy swap. The LS engines will go in with a little more cost and modification, but still not extremely dificult. Most of the complications comes from having a 4wd S-series as opposed to a 2wd. Most of the swap parts are being mass produced since its a common swap. But again, its the most expensive option.

tbhuge Enthusiast

tbhuge

Posted
Posted

If you are tight on time and it is your driver and has be done immediately, take it to a shop and pay to have another motor put in. There is nothing worse than trying to hurry a motor swap because you have to have it back up and running in a crunch.

 

I use to have a 97 s10 with the 4.3. Blew a connecting rod in it and took out a big chunk out of the block. I picked up a newer 4.3 out of a 2001 with fewer miles on it. The blocks on these motor are all the same. The only thing you have to do is keep your intake and exhaust manifolds from the old motor and put them on the new block. This will keep all of the emissions and computer from your old setup without problems.

 

As far as the top 2 bolts, I took the front clip off of my truck and pulled the motor and tranny together. The only difficult thing that I remember was when pulling and putting the motor back in, it is a very tight fit between the distributor cap and the firewall. I remember trying to drop the tranny crossmember to tilt the motor down to get to those 2 bolts and it did not work for me.

 

Good Luck with whatever you decide.

  • 4 weeks later...
unit731 Senior Enthusiast

unit731

Posted
Posted

It's really a gamble either way.

 

Money obviously can be an issue.

 

Are you doing this yourself or paying someone to do this?

 

A used engine could be a burner and a leaker. Then what? Or, of course, it could be running perfectly.

 

A remanufactured engine all depends on who or what company does the remanufacturing.

 

What warranty is given and what is the fine print?

 

Do you plan on having your engine rebuilt or purchasing one off the shelf? Short block or long block?

  • 2 months later...
wilsonz71 Enthusiast

wilsonz71

Posted
Posted

I spun a bearing after 300 000k on my 4.3 and bought a whole parts truck for $400 150k on it. Just gotta find the deals. And as for the top bolts.. I cut a hole in my floor and welded it back in once the job was done. Then again, mines not on the road anymore.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,746
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    J.P.L
    Newest Member
    J.P.L
    Joined

  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 451 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Black02Silverado
      Missing thrust bearing? And oil selection

      By Black02Silverado · Posted

      Maybe, but it seems he is the only one that has backed up data to prove what he is stating. I think he is doing this more because he enjoys it and wants to get the information out to us. He's got the knowledge and access to the proper equipment and having the funds doesn't hurt.  I would love to do what he is doing and would do it if and when I hit the Powerball.  I'm not a Tribologist by any means but love to learn what I can.   I would bet there would be doubting people out there if a completely independent lab with high quality work and highly respected in the automotive industry, put out information like this.  The world can't be pleased, one just has to take the information that they are given, do more of their own research to find actual lab data to back up what they are trying to figure/find out.  Most don't bother, they just want to believe what they first see.     I don't have the minimax but my 6.2 in my 2019 Silverado with 64k miles shows excellent UOA results with 0w-20 and for my own purposes 5w-20.  Since not much of a change using 5w. I liked the data sheet information on the SS 5w-20 and figured I would give it a try.  Still the same viscosity at 100℃.   In the end we all just do what makes us happy, life is too short to get upset over trivial social media.   On a side note, I do feel GM has dropped the ball and just cares about the bottom dollar and not quality anymore.  "Like a Rock" has been long gone.  Seems "Built Ford Tough" has as well.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      Thoughts on these wheels?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      Better than stock but that's like putting lipstick on a pig
    • flattop
      2026 sierra bad brake controller

      By flattop · Posted

      Hello, my 3 month old Sierra Elevation wont recognize a trailer with electric brakes? All the lights work correctly, but no power to the brakes?   This is the factory installed brake controller. If you manually push the knob, the display shows the power % but does not light up like my 2022 silverado.   I have an appointment with the dealer, but was checking to see if anyone else has seen this issue.    Thanks, 
    • Black02Silverado
      Post your latest oil change.

      By Black02Silverado · Posted

      Been using SS 0w-20 from new, but wanted to change to the 5w-20 because I liked the data on the data sheet, to me it seems like a little better product. But as you can see, not much difference. This is also with running a mix of 10 gallons E85 to a tank topped with 93. It isn't a flex fuel vehicle so any higher I get a CEL for running lean on both banks. Yes my mileage takes a hit. Instead of 20 mpg I normally get on trips I get 17mpg. This is also using EaO17 filter.  What is amazing is I have the AMSOIL cone filter on it since I have the GM Performance intake installed and that air filter has 44k miles on it.  I just take it out and shop vac it off once a year.  I use the upholstery tool on my shop vac.  Works well.   
    • revmanii
      Starting a new thread regarding mounting my 2014 OEM wheels to my 2026

      By revmanii · Posted

      So, lot's of googling and reading, and a trial fit found, that indeed they hit the newer fatter caliper. I did some re-testing today, and found just 3/16" worth of washers was enough for the wheel to spin freely. I added 2 more on each, and again it spun freely. Tested lock to lock with the 4 washers, about 5/16" not quite the 3/8" Im considering, but pretty close. No issues. I've been looking at the BORA .375" spacers and using extended lugnuts to get back lost thread due to the spacer. All the ET lugs I've seen are all .33" reach inside the wheel lug holes. For those that don't like spacers or think they're unsafe, I think it depends on what type of spacers you're using and making sure you get good quality hubcentric ones, and if you're using bolt on ones, regular mainenance, checking the spacer lugs. Not wanting or needing that much spread. Looking for the minimum that will let me run these rims and tires.  it does look to stick out a little, but I really want put these on. and use the stock all-terrains in the winter. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...