Jump to content

Nerf Step Bar Choice Help


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys and gals,

 

I am thinking about purchasing nerf step bars for my 2010 Chevy Silverado 1500 Crew Cab. I have, as many of you also, have looked online at different companies, brands, stainless steel vs. black powder coated, etc.. I have even been Google'ing reviews and such. I'm not all about the "bling" effect or the expensive ones (who can blame me, especially in these times when it takes about $85 to fill my tank these days here in NC, LOL). So, I really want to know what every ones experiences have been like with the different companies (ie. Truck Champ, JC Whitney, Real Truck, etc.). Is there any company/web site that I need to shy away or run away from? I am looking at Ebay listings as well. I also would like some input on stainless vs. black also. My truck is a smokey gray color with the front and rear bumper being the only stainless on the truck and they both have the black plastic molding. I'm all for any personal opinions that anyone may have. Thanks for reading this thread and thank you all in advance for any info/help. Be safe!

 

Thanks,

 

Ricky Ashley, NREMT

AKA "Ricky Bobby" "Shake-N-Bake" :lol:

Posted

The GM 6" ovals are very stylish and secure. You can jump up & down on them and

they wont give an inch. They come in chrome or black.

I like them, because being an oval design, they give you a nice flat surface to step on.

Posted

I am also trying to decide if I want to get steps or not. I am kinda leaning towards the style that nfab and rhino dominator offer. Take a look, they offer them on most accessories sites. I'm also leaning towards the black.

Posted

I have had my 2011 about two months and I put after market stainless on mine. A local shop

installed them. Cost installed was $275.

 

I have a white truck and I think they look great. They seem to be well built and feel strong

with solid feel.

 

These are round three inch.

 

:lol:

Posted

I like the 6" gm ovals I have. They work very well

DSC04673.JPG

DSC04673.JPG

DSC04673.JPG

DSC04673.JPG

Posted

I went with NFAB and they're great. Polished stainless, easy install and no flexing.

post-71240-1313937761_thumb.jpg

post-71240-1313937761_thumb.jpg

post-71240-1313937761_thumb.jpg

post-71240-1313937761_thumb.jpg

Posted
I have the 3" GM round and REALLY like them. Solid as a Rock... so "they" say... :lol

 

Look at my sig.

 

Also, I've purchased from this site before and they seem to have good prices :lol:

http://www.chevroletaccessoriesstore.com/c...-1500/2010.html

 

 

I had them on my 07 1500, and have them on this one. I think they look the best, they sit up high and tight, unlike some of the aftermarket ones that stick out and down a couple of inches.

 

 

Go GM Accy' :lol:

Posted

I have never found them to be useful. Actually I think they get in the way and were impratical to use. Had them on my old truck for a week and took them off. Only thing they did was get my pants dirty when I got out of the truck...and they look ghey. :thumbs:

Posted
I went with NFAB and they're great. Polished stainless, easy install and no flexing.

post-71240-1313937761_thumb.jpg

That's the ones I'm want but mine would be just cab length. :cool:

 

I have never found them to be useful. Actually I think they get in the way and were impratical to use. Had them on my old truck for a week and took them off. Only thing they did was get my pants dirty when I got out of the truck...and they look ghey. :lol:

Says the guy with mud flaps on his truck..... :thumbs::lol::lol:

 

:lol:

Posted

Hey guys,

 

Thanks for all of the posts. I really appreciate all of your comments and advice. I ended up purchasing a set from TruckChamp.com for about $186.00ish with free shipping. I Googled and went on Ebay and searched. Looked at reviews and everything and I even got a little anal and went to the BBB for select companies. Family and friends and my online friends all agree that stainless steel is the way to go. Now, to each his own, the decision for cab length or wheel-to-wheel length is one's own taste/opinion. I opted for cab length and stainless steel. I found most companies have a LIFETIME warranty for the stainless steel vs. the 1-5 year warranties (varies with manufacturer/company) for the black powder coated ones. As soon as I install mine, I will try and get some pics up on here so that all can see. Once again guys, thank you all for your input. I hope everyone has a safe and uneventful blessed day!

 

Thanks,

 

Ricky Ashley, NREMT

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Next time you're on a road trip to a state where you can still buy it stock up on 12oz cans, you might look into getting certified so you can buy it where you are as well. When they switched from R12 to R134a the test for certification was easy, they basically just wanted the $25
    • Getting greedy...   The AC pump has been replaced at least once per service records, and it's been recharged twice since 2018 or so, in approximately 2 year intervals between those charges.   It was done at the same shop...clearly they were enjoying the revenue of recharging the system periodically versus actually tracking down and fixing the leak. I learned that the owner was 88 years old when she passed in 2023, so maybe they assumed only a temporary fix was needed anyway.   The system is basically empty now, the compressor spins freely, so I'm guessing it "just needs a recharge".   I vacuumed it down, and it has basically held overnight. Doesn't appear to leak under vacuum, check! So it must leak under pressure. I don't have a way to pressurize the system and pressurizing it with shop air wouldn't be great for the air dryer (which is probably toast anyway?)   The dryer (accumulator? I'm not an AC expert) has a Schrader valve, but the high side has an old ball-type valve, which are notorious for leaking. It's clearly had schmutz blown out of it at one point because the line/area next to the valve is coated old black crud, which I assume is AC refrigerant residue/oil, or maybe even dirty dye. I think I'll roll the dice and replace the valves. I have a black light around here somewhere so I'll find it and shine it around the engine bay in the dark to see if there's any dye.   I can't think of another way to track down the leak other than injecting some dye (if it doesn't have any) and having it charged up. We can't buy R134a off the shelf here anymore, so I'll run it up to Jiffy Lube and have them do it. I think I have a coupon. At the very least, the charge should last long enough for a year or two, according to history. I think this truck will be long gone by then. But cold AC is a selling point.    
    • Got the truck back today.  Called them yesterday to get an update, and miraculously my truck is finished?!?! The $13k out the door was complete bullshit!  Ended up being over $14k.  They added some bullshit service bulletin that I cant even find, where they replaced my radiator without telling me or asking me, and charging me for it.  Need to do more research into it, cause they leaked the first delivered radiator was ran over by FedEX.  Sounds like bullshit to me. 2.5 Months for an engine swap, which ended up being remanufactured, not new; ****ing ridiculous.  Brakes are squishy as hell, not sure if its from sitting.  Will give a couple days to see it that figures it self out.  GAVE IT BACK TO ME WITH 1 GALLON OF GAS!  Just filled the tank the day before drop off, more bullshit.  My dash cam SD card was formatted, not really much I can do about that. 3 year, 100k GM warranty at least.  Time to sell it and say **** off to GM.  Bad experience.  Cant wait for the survey email to come through.  Overpriced Raptor R, here I come!
    • If I forget the phone in the truck, and forget the truck in the phone, and reconnect.  It works great for the day.  Truck sits overnight, and the next day is a no go.  It will connect Android Auto via usb cable, but not bluetooth.   Ive tried Everything in this thread so far, and nothing works for more than a day.   I think I might have to go to the dealer and have them flash the pcm.   thanks for all the suggestions guys. 👍
    • 2022 2500HD Crew Z71 Duramax single alternator.  Recently had the primary (water pump / fan) belt tensioner pulley bearing to fail while hundreds of miles from home of course the plastic pulley melted and belt shredded which took out some wiring. Found a replacement tensioner assembly and belt to continue now would like to find a replacement for just the pulley and bearing to have a spare assembly in case of a repeat, the rest of the tensioner is fine. Has anybody here found a correct replacement part for just the pulley and bearing? Any help is appreciated.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...