Jump to content

Anyone running 2011 2500hd 20" wheels on a 2010 2500hd?


Jons40ct

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey everybody...

 

New to GM here.. 1st gas truck in quite some time...

 

I was wondering if anyone has put the 2011 2500hd 20" wheels on a 2010 2500hd or older...

 

 

I am aware of the bolt patterns being different ... 8x6.5 (2010) vs 8x180 (2011)

 

I found some very nice wheels complete with sensors lugs caps.... and also found adaptor rings ( 1.5" thick) to exicute the swap..

 

Does anyone have any experiance or feed back to HELP? thanks

 

 

Below is what my truck will look like .. except my truck is an extended cab with a 2" lift

 

20wheels.jpg

Posted

Sadly I couldn't tell you how they did it but it has been done before. Take a look see at the link. http://www.cars.com/...05&aff=national

 

 

 

WOW awesome... :) Thanks for the link!

 

My concern is that the wheels willl stick out too much past the fenders....

 

After doing some caculations on offsets and backspacing, my current wheels being 16" with a 29mm offset (4.79 ? backspace) and the 20" wheels having a 31mm offset (5.9 backspace) with a 1.5" wheel spacer/adaptor it should sit flush with the fenders...

 

In the above link it looks like they might have used the 2" wheels spacers/adaptor

I'll call them and ask...

Posted

Here is my truck BEFORE the 2" ready lift with stock wheels.. (yuck)lol

 

img2076hw.jpg

 

img2075kg.jpg

 

 

Here is my truck with the ready lift installed.....

 

img2254v.jpg

 

img2253tt.jpg

Posted

I am not sure but I read somewhere that the 2011's had different bolt pattern than previous year models, but I may be incorrect. Just something to check on before you make the purchase.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

My concern isn't the bolt pattern as much as if someones using adapters and what spacing are they? 1.5" or 2"?

 

I do not want my wheels sticking out past the fenders .....

Posted

Being 2007-2012 all have the same body work, if you space it right, I dont think they would stick out. The wheels on your truck now are the same as 99-07 and on the 07-10 trucks, they look small and appear to sit in more with the 07+ body work.

 

On that link I had posted earlier, with the smooth fenders of the older trucks, they almost look as if they are sticking out on that truck.

Posted

True ... that link you posted for me helped a lot..

 

I went ahead and bought a set of wheels, complete with lugs etc... they will be here tomorrow.... I am going to buy One 1.5" wheel adapter and one 2" wheel adapter. First for sizing purposes, which ever looks best, I'll by the set.. I see that the front wheels sit wider than that of the rear so it is possible that 1.5 in the front and 2" in the rear might be the call.. We'll see...

 

I'm hoping for a flush fit ... I will post up pictures by Friday once i receive the adapters....

 

 

 

FYI the wheel liners I bought were the wrong ones ... "you'd think the dealership could match up my Vin number for a proper fit of parts?" NO way .. not them.. I provided them my Vin number so this shit doesn't happen .. so back they go for the correct part .. I found the correct part number for the dealership to use.. I should charge the dealership for doing their job and my travel... another day another argument i suppose :)

Posted

True ... that link you posted for me helped a lot..

 

I went ahead and bought a set of wheels, complete with lugs etc... they will be here tomorrow.... I am going to buy One 1.5" wheel adapter and one 2" wheel adapter. First for sizing purposes, which ever looks best, I'll by the set.. I see that the front wheels sit wider than that of the rear so it is possible that 1.5 in the front and 2" in the rear might be the call.. We'll see...

 

I'm hoping for a flush fit ... I will post up pictures by Friday once i receive the adapters....

 

 

FYI the wheel liners I bought were the wrong ones ... "you'd think the dealership could match up my Vin number for a proper fit of parts?" NO way .. not them.. I provided them my Vin number so this shit doesn't happen .. so back they go for the correct part .. I found the correct part number for the dealership to use.. I should charge the dealership for doing their job and my travel... another day another argument i suppose :)

 

 

My dealer tried to tell me the same thing today. He said p/n 19166676 is for 1500 & 2500 srw, when in fact the p/n for the 2500 & 3500 srw is 22738993. Found them on eBay for less than $90 shipped. I even told the parts guy I have a set I used on an 08 1500 and they wouldn't fit.

Posted

True ... that link you posted for me helped a lot..

 

I went ahead and bought a set of wheels, complete with lugs etc... they will be here tomorrow.... I am going to buy One 1.5" wheel adapter and one 2" wheel adapter. First for sizing purposes, which ever looks best, I'll by the set.. I see that the front wheels sit wider than that of the rear so it is possible that 1.5 in the front and 2" in the rear might be the call.. We'll see...

 

I'm hoping for a flush fit ... I will post up pictures by Friday once i receive the adapters....

 

 

FYI the wheel liners I bought were the wrong ones ... "you'd think the dealership could match up my Vin number for a proper fit of parts?" NO way .. not them.. I provided them my Vin number so this shit doesn't happen .. so back they go for the correct part .. I found the correct part number for the dealership to use.. I should charge the dealership for doing their job and my travel... another day another argument i suppose :)

 

 

My dealer tried to tell me the same thing today. He said p/n 19166676 is for 1500 & 2500 srw, when in fact the p/n for the 2500 & 3500 srw is 22738993. Found them on eBay for less than $90 shipped. I even told the parts guy I have a set I used on an 08 1500 and they wouldn't fit.

 

 

Holy Shit! do you pull that trailer with a gas engine? If so.. i suppose I have no worries pulling my 22' enclosed trailer with my mustang inside it !.... I never had a Chevy and never had a gas engine truck.. this is my 1st...

 

I'm going to make these butt holes order both styles/part numbers and fit them before buying them...(leaving the dealership)

Posted

True ... that link you posted for me helped a lot..

 

I went ahead and bought a set of wheels, complete with lugs etc... they will be here tomorrow.... I am going to buy One 1.5" wheel adapter and one 2" wheel adapter. First for sizing purposes, which ever looks best, I'll by the set.. I see that the front wheels sit wider than that of the rear so it is possible that 1.5 in the front and 2" in the rear might be the call.. We'll see...

 

I'm hoping for a flush fit ... I will post up pictures by Friday once i receive the adapters....

 

 

FYI the wheel liners I bought were the wrong ones ... "you'd think the dealership could match up my Vin number for a proper fit of parts?" NO way .. not them.. I provided them my Vin number so this shit doesn't happen .. so back they go for the correct part .. I found the correct part number for the dealership to use.. I should charge the dealership for doing their job and my travel... another day another argument i suppose :)

 

 

My dealer tried to tell me the same thing today. He said p/n 19166676 is for 1500 & 2500 srw, when in fact the p/n for the 2500 & 3500 srw is 22738993. Found them on eBay for less than $90 shipped. I even told the parts guy I have a set I used on an 08 1500 and they wouldn't fit.

 

 

Holy Shit! do you pull that trailer with a gas engine? If so.. i suppose I have no worries pulling my 22' enclosed trailer with my mustang inside it !.... I never had a Chevy and never had a gas engine truck.. this is my 1st...

 

I'm going to make these butt holes order both styles/part numbers and fit them before buying them...(leaving the dealership)

 

 

Yea, It pulls it pretty good. It only gets about 8 MPGs pulling the trailer though. About 12 unloaded. I don't live or plan to camp in the mountains, so I couldn't justify the added cost of a diesel. I figure it's 8000-9000 lbs with all my stuff in it. One of these days I'll actually go get it weighed.

 

You shouldn't have any problems pulling your set up.

Posted

The 6.0 is a pulling beast. When I had my Vmax, there wasn't a hill around I couldn't increase speed on. Very solid motor in my opinion. It never gives up :thumbs:

Posted

So i got my new 2011 20" wheels in two days ago.... I'll post pictures on saturday....

 

I got them for $1,250 shipped (ms to ct) They are Brand spakin new ! ( only thing i have to get are tpsm, i don't want to remove the ones from my stock wheels bc i trade trucks in like most people change underwear ) lol

 

 

I am working on custom made 8x6.5 to 8x180 wheel adapters, which are hubcentric.... (possibly making them hubcentric on the wheel and hub sides)

 

I will do a write up on this soon as i get everything sorted out :)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • As a matter of amusement I’ll leave this conversation with this. Do you beat the government average fuel estimate? Statistics are a guide to me. Not a rule. Someone once said I have to have the last word. If true and possible may be. I’ll blame that on working in a family business.
    • That is a fair point, and I agree that trying to log “everything in the truck” would be the wrong direction.   There are a lot of modules and a lot of traffic. If the product became a full-truck datalogger, the amount of data would get huge very quickly, and most owners would never use it.   I think the first useful version would need to be narrow: - powertrain-side event evidence - selected high-value parameters - communication / voltage / reset events - pre/post event window - short report first, raw log only as backup   One distinction I should make is between active OBD/PID polling and passive bus capture. If you are polling PIDs through OBD, then yes: the more parameters you request, the lower the effective sample rate becomes, and you are adding diagnostic traffic to a vehicle that is already busy running itself. With passive CAN capture, the recorder is not asking all the modules for data. It is listening to traffic that is already on the bus. So it does not consume vehicle bus bandwidth in the same way that a scan tool polling hundreds of PIDs would. But your point still applies in a different way.   Even if passive capture does not add bus traffic, the recorder still has limits: - processing rate - storage rate - timestamp accuracy - decoder workload - event filtering - report size - user attention span   So the answer cannot be “log everything and let the user figure it out.” The product would need to store enough raw evidence to be useful, but only decode, graph, and present the important parts around the event.   A practical report should probably show: - what triggered the capture - how much pre/post data was preserved - which selected parameters changed - how those values compared to baseline - whether the same pattern happened before - whether any voltage, reset, bus-off, lost-message, or communication fault occurred - selected graphs around the event - raw data only as supporting evidence   So I agree with you. More data is not automatically better. The real product is the reduction from raw data into a useful event report.
    • That makes sense, and I agree with most of that.   I think the product would need both: 1. a default powertrain template, so it is useful out of the box; 2. user-selected priority parameters, so the owner or shop can choose what they want to see first.   Different users are going to care about different things. One owner may care about oil pressure and voltage. Another may care about misfire trend, AFM/DFM behavior, or U-codes. A shop may want communication events and repeatability first. Your baseline point is probably the most important one. Raw data is not very useful unless the report can show what normal looked like for that vehicle under similar conditions.   The way I would think about it is: - start with a basic known-good baseline - learn normal behavior for that specific vehicle over time - allow the event to be overlaid against baseline - show whether the event was a one-time spike or a repeatable pattern - provide a simple severity level, but with clear limits on what that severity means   For example, early severity could be something like: - Info: event captured, no obvious abnormal pattern - Watch: value moved outside baseline, but not repeated - Warning: repeatable abnormal pattern under similar conditions - Critical: communication loss, voltage drop, bus-off, reset, or severe repeated event   I would not want the first version to say “replace this part.” That would be overclaiming unless there is repair-confirmed data behind it. It would be more honest to say “this pattern deserves inspection.”   On the OBD port question, I think OBD absolutely has a role. OBD is probably the right place for: - DTCs - freeze frame - VIN - calibration information - normal scan-tool parameters - Mode 6 / enhanced diagnostic data if available The reason I am still looking at an ECM-side recorder is that the failure may happen before anyone connects a scan tool. If the owner plugs in a scanner after the event, the pre-event evidence may already be gone unless the ECU happened to save it. So I do not see this as “OBD versus ECM-side.” I see it more like: - ECM-side recorder: always armed, rolling buffer, event evidence - OBD/DLC companion: DTCs, freeze frame, VIN, calibration, normal scan data - phone/cloud: status, notes, upload, report generation, notifications   I agree that phone connection and push notifications would be useful. I just would not want the phone or cloud connection to be required for capture. The recorder should save the event locally even if the phone is not connected. The phone should help with event marking, download, notes, upload, alerts, and report viewing.   For a default GM V8 event report, would this list make sense? - RPM - calculated load / MAP - throttle position - vehicle speed - gear / torque converter state if available - coolant temperature - oil pressure - oil temperature if available - battery voltage - commanded AFM/DFM state if available - actual AFM/DFM state if available - misfire counters / roughness by cylinder if available - fuel trims - relevant U-codes / communication events - bus-off / lost periodic message / module reset / voltage drop events Which of those would you remove, and what would you add?
    • I went to the county a few years back to dispute my property taxes. To do that I hired an appraiser and a lawyer. The County Assessor wished to argue that the homes in my neighborhood the appraiser used were all 'distressed properties" and not representative of the "Market Average".    My response was," Of the 50 homes in our subdivision 43 of them were "distressed properties" under bank foreclosure and as such "Distressed IS the market". Lawyer about choked on his coffee and handed the Assessor the 'receipts'.    I won that case on the evidence provided by the Lawyer and the Appraiser.    We have the same thing going on here. My statements were based on the GOVERNMENTS NATIONAL DATA and yours on local markets in areas of your interest. They are both correct....   Thing is, this divergence was based on NATIONAL and not on LOCAL. I think you even understand that. But like you said, we are both stubborn and hardheaded.    I do not see any advantage to disengagement.  But that said we can step back to compose ourselves. 
    • Trust me I appreciate the comments and concerns. It's what I was looking for to help me evaluate the situation and what I want to do. I have decided to move forward with the BORA hubcentric slip on 3/8" (.375") with the extended lugs nuts. Fedex says they should be here Monday :). Meanwhile, the dealer got the remote start and Patriot spray in bed liner done over the last couple of days. Also, I installed an inline stop/start eliminator today. Starts back up in what whatever mode you shut it off in, so you don't have to hit the button every time you fire up.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...