Jump to content

Trying to decide between a 4.8 and a 5.3L


Recommended Posts

Posted

ok cool, thanks for the help, if I were to change the gearing though, let's say I couldnt find a low geared for sale, is it easy to change the computer to get the speedo to be right?

  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

the 5.3 is a superior motor hands down, but the 4.8 can hold its own...gearing like others have stated is a deciding factor

Posted

In my oppinion a 4.8 shouldent even be a consideration with that kind of weight,I've had both 4.8 and 5.3 and the 5.3 definatly does the job better towing my 4400lb camper.My 4.8 had 3.73's and it felt like I was stretching its limits to pull the camper.You definatly want a 5.3 or larger for that kind of weight.

Posted

I tow 7K with my truck. It was too much for the 4.6L 3.55 gears in the F150 I owned. I then had a 5.4L with 3.73 gears and burned up the tranny at 66K miles. No more Fords!

 

This time around I went with a heavier duty 1500. I am not in a 3/4 ton or larger category yet and I like the ride of this truck better. This truck does pull my boat a lot better with plenty power to spare.

 

Before you decide on what to get you really should listen to what has been said here. Gearing and motor size are both important and this is too much load 4.8 when your talking about 1000 mile trips imo.

 

Here is my load

 

Please don't mind the Ford I no longer own it. I do need to get a better picture of it behind my new truck! Click the picture to make it larger

post-89456-0-84409800-1325647131_thumb.jpg

post-89456-0-84409800-1325647131_thumb.jpg

post-89456-0-84409800-1325647131_thumb.jpg

post-89456-0-84409800-1325647131_thumb.jpg

Posted

Just my 2 cents. I had a few horses and the loaded trailer was about the same weight as being discussed here. I bought a 2500 back in 1999 for this job. I had watched a couple friends use 1500's for this exact job and beat the living hell out of the drivelines, brakes, suspension and frames in very short order.

 

Towing a 7500 lb trailer is always an increase in risk. You want to stack the odds in your favor as much as practical. You won't have much braking margin with a 1500. You'll go thru brakes pretty quick. Suspension is taxed to the limit. Pretty much the whole truck is working inear the limit. They advertise it to be capable of this load with the 1500, but is it a good idea? I personnally don't think so.

Posted

I've owned a 4 speed 4.8L and 6 speed 5.3L (current) - I would not attempt that kind of weight with a 4.8L/4 sp. I have towed plenty of different loads with both also.

 

The 6 speed has a MUCH better transmission and the torque numbers speak way more than horsepower numbers when towing is involved.

 

My 5.3L w/ 6 speed felt comfortable towing my 7,000 lb travel trailer in hilly terrain.

Posted

Don't listen to the dribble coming from the uninformed about the huge differences between the 4.8 and 5.3. They are identical engines except for a 9mm difference in stroke. There is no mysterious HUGE difference in performance. The main advantage the 4.8 has is a lack of the AFM and its associated noise and oil consumption issues.

 

The bigger difference in these trucks is the 4 speed vs 6 speed transmission. For towing, I would go with the 6 speed.

Posted

5.3L as well. While the 4.8L is a GREAT engine there IS a noticeable power difference and you will kick yourself later on by not going with the 5.3L.

Posted

AND you can only get the 6 speed behind the 5.3 right?

 

5.3 or the 6.2. The 6.2 does not have AFM

Posted

AND you can only get the 6 speed behind the 5.3 right?

 

 

No, I saw two on the lot today that were the 4.8 with the 6 speed transmission. I don't know if the were 2011 leftovers or 2012's.

Posted

AND you can only get the 6 speed behind the 5.3 right?

 

5.3 or the 6.2. The 6.2 does not have AFM

 

 

6.2 Sounds like the right setup then.

 

AND you can only get the 6 speed behind the 5.3 right?

 

 

No, I saw two on the lot today that were the 4.8 with the 6 speed transmission. I don't know if the were 2011 leftovers or 2012's.

 

Never seen a 6 speed 4.8

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,979 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Fix one problem and find another.   Truck didn't have a thermostat in it so I flushed out the system today and refilled with 50/50 Dexcool. This truck is so old (LOL) that it has a sticker under the hood alerting people to the fact that it contains such. There is also an orange supplement with the owner's manual alerting the owner that "Your vehicle is one of a number of late production 1995 General Motors vehicles that use a newly developed engine coolant in the cooling system..."   I was still a little flummoxed by what seemed like a rich condition (exhaust smell, and a puff of carbon with a punchy rev). While watching the coolant temperature and testing the thermostat with my scanner, I happened to notice the IAT (incoming air temperature) to the intake was -40F. I know the temp is below average today, but I can still feel my face, and I was wearing shorts.   D'oh!! I realized I had never plugged the IAT back in, and the airbox was out while I was doing coolant. So I paused, reinstalled the airbox and plugged in the IAT, and viola. Things cleared right up, and I watched the coolant temp climb to a reported 198 degrees on the scanner (195 thermostat) and then it dropped to 194 (open) and then back up to 198 and held. Let it cool, came back, checked the coolant level and was satisifed.   Victory lap?   It needed more than the couple of gallons of gas I put in it from almost bone dry, so I ran it up to the gas station. It had earned it, or, at least I was pretty certain I wouldn't be draining or removing the tank anytime soon.   CEL popped on just as I was cruising a nice steady 40mph, just after coasting down a slight downhill curve.. Of course, it did, because, why let me enjoy not having dash emojis for a little while.   I just happened to have the scanner plugged in. I don't text and drive but I might scan and drive. Don't tell the police.   P0401, EGR flow insufficient.    Well, hello, EGR... ...my old friend! Welcome to the party, now that the engine reaches the factory-programmed operating temperature. I'm sure it was gagging on hostile, rich exhaust and carbon this whole time so I'll take it off and look again.   At least it's easily accessible, and worst case, about $65 to replace.   To keep, or to sell... Hmm. I want it running correctly either way. It's easier to sell when there are no fault codes.   It needs tires (they're aged out and cracking)   It could probably use an oil pan seal, or maybe the timing cover gasket/ junction with the pan needs redone because I've got an issue there that leaves a drop of oil on the floor.   If I do tires I'm sure they'll say the ball joints could use freshening, and, and, and, and.... At some point I'll have to stop. I can't (shouldn't) make it perfect, that's not what this rig is.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...