Build thread. 08 CC install

arctictwist · January 12, 2012

I think this is about to get more complicated lol. While sitting there peacefully applying my CLD tiles to the back wall and then one of the doors I was contemplating the frustration of getting all the trim panels off. I dont want to do this again. So I am really close to pulling the trigger on the Head unit, pioneer AVH 4300 DVD, sub (jl 8w7) and amp (JL JX 500). I really need to pull the center console out and figure what kind of room I have for that sub or maybe two 8w3s instead. The w7 would have to fire backwards. The W3s could fire up or down. Those two things i know for sure.

arctictwist · January 16, 2012

So i pulled the trigger on the pioneer avh-4300dvd. i also got the xm tuner for it, the ipod cable, my rca cables and some misc stuff. oh and a pac os4. My plan now is to run the chimes off the front left speaker output on a speaker under the dash and the rest off the rcas. Im going to order two jl 8w3s. i just havent decided which amp so i dont know if i should go 8 ohm or 4 ohm yet. Other than that i havent gotten anything done this weekend. I had a final paper, a final exam and a two day mma conditioning coach certification. all done! crazy weekend! i plan on doing a 3 day install fri/sat/sun next weekend. Im going to commandeer my dads warehouse. lol.

aesalazar · January 16, 2012

So how much did the Pioneer set you back?

Ernie

arctictwist · January 16, 2012

Ugh, eBay 360. But it such a sweet unit

RAK80 · January 16, 2012

where are you planning on installing the subs? Center console still?

arctictwist · January 16, 2012

Nooo that would be to easy and I make everything complicated. I'm going to do a custom console that allows me to still have a jump seat and utilize the upper console..... My issue with the amp is I've read that the jx500 may run hot on the two ohm load because it's a class AB and the jx1000/1d is a class d so I would just run the 8 ohm subs in series parallel to get a 4 ohm load and 500 watts out of that. Guaranteeing its stable. Just don't know ill really be a problem with the 500 and it's an extra 100$ for the class d amp.

parshal · January 18, 2012

I'm still going through this upgrade and will post my results once I'm finished. I used a Stealthbox but contemplated building a box for two 8". I just couldn't get a box to fit in the center console area.

I tapped the front left speaker and zip tied a 4" speaker under the dash and all my chimes, onstar and bluetooth work fine through it. I run the other four speakers and Stealthbox off a JL Audio 900/5. I ran all new speaker wire to C2 coaxials in the rear and had C2 components up front. I replaced the components with C5's up front. I'm very impressed with the mid-bass out of the C2's in the rear. You'll be very happy.

I'm still installing but have have replaced the head unit with an OGM1 using the amp pre-outs.

arctictwist · January 18, 2012

Rak i dont know why but i read your post as back seat.

Parshal. Im going to make it work, I might do one ten. I was thinking a 10w6. I am pulling the interior out this weekend and leaving the console out when im done. I will examine it then and make my decision. I am not using the stock bottom at all, im making a completely new one so this will help.

arctictwist · January 20, 2012

I missed the UPS guy by 5 minutes today Why would they require someone 21 or older be present and sign for the package??? I would just sign the thing and let them take my sig that way tomorrow when they drop it off. Now I have to try again. Looks like ill only be stripping the interior out tomorrow. Maybe ill run the big 3 as well.

RAK80 · January 20, 2012

I missed the UPS guy by 5 minutes today Why would they require someone 21 or older be present and sign for the package??? I would just sign the thing and let them take my sig that way tomorrow when they drop it off. Now I have to try again. Looks like ill only be stripping the interior out tomorrow. Maybe ill run the big 3 as well.

For future reference, if you know that a signature is required, you can leave a note on the door saying that it is ok to leave it and put your signature on it.....they will leave it. I've had to do this before.

arctictwist · January 22, 2012

Rak they specified that I couldnt do that. Of course i didnt know that till after the first attempt.

So i spent 14 hours in that truck today and about 4 yesterday. Still not done.

I have to ask. What happened to SAE? Its all metric and I went nuts trying to find external TORX sockets to take the seats out yesterday. I should have gone to sears first. Craftsman is my savior. I got a universal set that takes care of them. I would also like to point out that i have never ever put a head unit in that just went right in. I struggled with that damn thing for hours and called it a night. Im gonna cut out the support tomorrow and that should fix my issue.

Another note, i found out today that the pac retains the factory xm tuner, but shifts the control to the DIC.....Still glad i got the aftermarket unit to go with the HU. Will see how glad when its up and running.

I also hate how i have to run the wires into the rear doors. I was able to snake them through the front door boots but i just dont think its possible in the rear.. Sound dampening is done except the roof. I think ill save it for another day. I need to get that thing drivable tomorrow. I would also like to listen to it when i do so lol.

Last observation of the day. Long arms are great for snaking wires through the dash, big hands however are not!

parshal · January 22, 2012

I also hate how i have to run the wires into the rear doors. I was able to snake them through the front door boots but i just dont think its possible in the rear...

It's tricky but can be done. Pull the boot off the door and from the truck. Separate the boots from the plastic that is held in the truck and door. You'll notice a little cutout on the upper or lower part of that plastic. Use a coat hanger to rin the wire through the boot but run the wire on the "outside" of the plastic. Pull the boot down over the plastice and you'll be able to put the wire in that little notch, mine fit perfect with 14 gauge wire. It's tricky to get it but it will work. I just did it last week. You will need to pull the seat belt tensioner off but that comes off easy with another torx socket.

Incidentally, I got a torx set off Amazon for pretty cheap whan I started working on the Shelby. It included both internal and external.

arctictwist · January 22, 2012

On mine the rear doors dont have that plastic clip ring. Only the fronts did. In the back there are crazy thick rubber lips that they fit in there somehow. Ill look again, but im pretty sure. I have to get the torx set quick on my way there anyways to get that tensioner off and put the wire through a whole that ill make if i cant get the boot off.