Build thread. 08 CC install

arctictwist · January 3, 2012

Ok so Ive begun whats going to be a slow install as i work full time, train alot and have grad school, but ive begun. Heres whats going in.

Main components -

1 JL C2-650 component system for the front

1 Pr JL C2-650x coaxials in the rear

1 JL Jx-360/4 to power them

The rest you see is support, battery terminals (I will be utilizing the top and side terminals on my optima, which i did put in and convert the factory cable ends to Kicker terminals which i have pic of next), fuse and distribution blocks, and of course wire. The 0AWG is for the BIG 3. I also have 70 CLD tiles for some vibration dampening on the floor, doors, back, and roof.

Future additions will include a second battery ( which is why there will be two open terminals, so i can wire it in) and possibly a custom sub set up. It will depend on if im happy with the sound as it is after the install and If i can figure out how to custom do it in my center console.

First question, will i really notice a negative difference if i use the stock tweeter location versus surface mounting close to the midrange on the door? The directions suggest that as the best, but i want to do this with as stock a look as possible.

RAK80 · January 3, 2012

Really working forward to watching this build come to life! Are you using the factory deck or do you have an aftermarket already installed??

BTW...mad props for working full time and going to grad school...takes alot of willpower!

aesalazar · January 4, 2012

As for your question, I am not sure sure I aggree with the instructions about it sounding "better" on the doors. Having the tweeter that close to your ear espeically on the drivers side might be too bright. They are silk dome at least so I guess that is not so bad - if they were metal dome I would say they are crazy! Still, I put mine in the factory location becuase I wanted the sound to bounce of the windshield rather then directly at my ears and I wanted to keep it stock looking. But I guess it is more a personal preference.

Good luck with it! I did mine about 6 months ago and it was well worth it. One question: you planning to dynamat your interior at all? I did and it made a big difference.

Ernie

arctictwist · January 4, 2012

I'm using the factory head unit and am using high level inputs on my amp from the rear speaker lines. I will eventually put a small speaker under the dash for door chimes and onstar off the stock front lines. I def don't want that amplified.

Thanks for the props. After this intense 3 week winter session course I have 4 left. Hoping to take a spring/summer/fall/spring to finish!

Ernie, that's good enough for me. Stock it is. I really want to keep that stock appearance.

And incase anyone was wondering im pretty partial to my underseat storage in the rear. That's why I'm stuck on the center console and I'm trying to avoid a JL stealthbox there because I don't want to lose the seat.

arctictwist · January 6, 2012

WOW. i suppose posting from my iphone is a bad idea. I edited the embarrassing autocorrects. I am planning to get into this on sunday... i hope. But while at work and my brain couldnt handle any more marketing...im way ahead on my three week course!... I have been trying to research this center console idea. It seems that I cant find anyone that has tried their own custom drop in box or something molded right to it. I really want to keep it appearing factory. Im liking this challenge and I have ideas in my head that once I work on I will get into more. First comes this part of the stereo. Which I will be atleast embarking on the big three and some interior removal sunday.

arctictwist · January 10, 2012

Took the back seats out today and the drivers side rear door panel. I started to work on the rear wall but couldnt get that narrow top piece off. Also couldnt get the side panel off. Its attached to the upper C pillar and I was afraid of the air bag. Ive decided that as time goes on GM is like apple. They want to make it harder and harder for you to customize their product. Honestly i think they should be happy that i like their product enough to buy it and then put money into it to make it my own. But anyways. Any panel removal tips? Also I keep getting more and more into this center console idea and want to do it just to see if i can...and because im slightly obsessive like that. I already bought speaker cable for the sub that I will run incase it happens, that way I wont have to tear the floor out again. I think Im going to run RCAs as well, that way i dont have to worry about if i change the head unit and want to use pre amp outputs.

wottenad · January 10, 2012

As for your question, I am not sure sure I aggree with the instructions about it sounding "better" on the doors. Having the tweeter that close to your ear espeically on the drivers side might be too bright. They are silk dome at least so I guess that is not so bad - if they were metal dome I would say they are crazy! Still, I put mine in the factory location becuase I wanted the sound to bounce of the windshield rather then directly at my ears and I wanted to keep it stock looking. But I guess it is more a personal preference.

Good luck with it! I did mine about 6 months ago and it was well worth it. One question: you planning to dynamat your interior at all? I did and it made a big difference.

Ernie

Just an idea here - instead of Dynamat, try aluminum roof tape - it's the same stuff as Dynamat, but less than half the price.

For instance:

Dynamat: $71 for 20 sq. ft

Aluminum tape: $34 for 25 sq. ft. (2 rolls)

music · January 10, 2012

Aluminum tape: $34 for 25 sq. ft. (2 rolls)

What are the properties of "dynamat"? Material type? Thickness?

arctictwist · January 10, 2012

I never noticed ernies question, im using CLD tiles from sounddeadenershowdown.com

music · January 10, 2012

I never noticed ernies question, im using CLD tiles from sounddeadenershowdown.com

Sounds like fancy names for adding weight to a flexible (resonant) panel. I've studied sound transmission/dampening for building construction before, and it is not an easy task... even with concrete. It's about impossible inside a tin can. Bass will go around/through just about anything, since the pressure "wave lengh" is on the order of meters. I'd guess you have a lot better chance of controlling harmonics and tone using a wideband equalizer. I think I'd just glue something heavy to bare/thin metal panels to lower their resonance freq, but only if it were in issue.

wottenad · January 10, 2012

I never noticed ernies question, im using CLD tiles from sounddeadenershowdown.com

Sounds like fancy names for adding weight to a flexible (resonant) panel. I've studied sound transmission/dampening for building construction before, and it is not an easy task... even with concrete. It's about impossible inside a tin can. Bass will go around/through just about anything, since the pressure "wave lengh" is on the order of meters. I'd guess you have a lot better chance of controlling harmonics and tone using a wideband equalizer. I think I'd just glue something heavy to bare/thin metal panels to lower their resonance freq, but only if it were in issue.

You're exactly right about what the purpose is. Just that Dynamat (or equivalent) is relatively heavy, inert, flexible and sticky so you can stick it just about any panel and accomplish a surprising amount of dampening of any weird resonances that occur.

aesalazar · January 11, 2012

I remember reading up on Dynamat vs other material before I ordered. With the others, alot of the complaints were about the stickyness and the smell. Dynamat can and is actually designed to be hung updsidedown while other material/competitors varied.

But the smell is what I really worried about. Dynamat doesnt smell great by any means but once covered you wil never know it is there based on prior experience. I didnt want to take the chance with other stuff - ewwwwwww... :O

Walt, do you use that roofing stuff regularly?

As for the results, it was a noticable difference when it came to road noise. I remember after I put everything back together (it was a complete gut of the interior) and driving around the next day. I kept thinking "why is the truck so slow now?" worried that I screwed something up. Eventually it hit me that it wasnt any slower - it was because of the reduction in road noise and vibration. For that alone I think it was worth it, any improvement in sound is gravy.

Ernie

arctictwist · January 11, 2012

Sooooo any tips on removing the panels?

wottenad · January 11, 2012

I remember reading up on Dynamat vs other material before I ordered. With the others, alot of the complaints were about the stickyness and the smell. Dynamat can and is actually designed to be hung updsidedown while other material/competitors varied.

But the smell is what I really worried about. Dynamat doesnt smell great by any means but once covered you wil never know it is there based on prior experience. I didnt want to take the chance with other stuff - ewwwwwww... :O

Walt, do you use that roofing stuff regularly?

As for the results, it was a noticable difference when it came to road noise. I remember after I put everything back together (it was a complete gut of the interior) and driving around the next day. I kept thinking "why is the truck so slow now?" worried that I screwed something up. Eventually it hit me that it wasnt any slower - it was because of the reduction in road noise and vibration. For that alone I think it was worth it, any improvement in sound is gravy.

Ernie

Depending on where it goes and how much you have to spend will determine if using the other stuff will be worthwhile. I agree that you want sticky and not smelly, but if you're using the cheap stuff on the floor and the $$$ stuff on the headliner and doors, it's a good balance IMO. You're right, once you've done the truck with it, it feels like a bank vault when you shut the door, and sounds quieter than an $80,000 Escalade driving down the road.

If you use the aluminum backed stuff, the smell isn't terrible, especially if you only use it on the floor. To get a good idea of how effective the carpet is at blocking smells, try lifting your carpet sometime - if it ever got wet at some point in its life, you'll appreciate the amazing ability the factory carpets have at masking the smell...

arctictwist · January 11, 2012

Through look at another thread, i dont think that top black trim piece needs to come off on the back panel. So on to another question. Ive been thinking about this door chime issue with the PAC adapters and such. So if I did replace the factory unit and used the preamps for the components, coaxials and possibly a sub later, could i wire it so that another small speaker is powered by the headunits regular speaker front left channel and get my chimes out of that, avoiding the amplifier all together? Im going to run RCAs as well so i can just go ahead and put in a new unit when im ready and better control the system.