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Paint Question

tyhuck

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tyhuck Senior Enthusiast

tyhuck

Posted
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I am in the process of completing a set of steps for my truck. I got them all primed and ready for paint, but I have run into an issue.

 

I usually use all Rustoleum products from the "Stops Rust" line. I prefer using the clean metal primer since everything I make is out of new steel. But, when I went to pick it up, I couldnt find the Clean Metal Primer in a quart can. No big deal, I figured that the Rusty Metal Primer would work. I assumed that it had similar properties of a self etching primer that would eat down into the rusty surface to increase addhesion. WRONG!!!

 

Just out of sheer curiosity, I was browsing the Rustoleum website and came across the FAQ section. In that section I found a question:

 

Q Can I use Rusty Metal Primer on clean metal? A No. The fish oil that is in the primer needs to penetrate into rust to seal out air and moisture. If there is no rust, the oil will rise to the surface making adhesion of the finish coat difficult.

 

 

Well, there it is. Thats my dilema. I have the steps all primed in Rusty Metal Primer, which appearantly contains oils that will rise to the surface as it dries. I figured it would work as long as I let the primer dry completely, then cleaned the oil off of the surface and maybe scuff it a tad to increase addhesion. But, what do I use to clean to surface? Can I use regular paint thinner if the primer is dried, or would that begin to remove the primer? Paint gurus please help.

2010LTZ4x4 Enthusiast

2010LTZ4x4

Posted
Posted

I would scuff the primer with sand paper to get it ready for the next coat of paint, then use a tack cloth to wipe them down before you paint them with the color of your choice.

Actually you might want to look into a sealer primer after you sand the original primer.

tyhuck Senior Enthusiast

tyhuck

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Would that take care of the oil? Im not looking for an automotive finish since the steps will be covered in dirt grime and mud most of the time. I just want the topcoat to stock. I plan on using Rustoleum flat black so its not gonna be a high end paintjob.

 

Would you still recomend the same process?

2010LTZ4x4 Enthusiast

2010LTZ4x4

Posted
Posted

I would yes, the sanding should remove any of the oils that come to the surface once you have left the original primer dry well. You don't have to use the tack cloth, air and a wipe down would be fine then. The sealer was just to make sure the oil doesn't come through while your trying to lay down the top coat. Theres nothing worse than having fish eyes popping out while your painting the last and final coat.

 

Or strip them down to the bare metal and spray them with Line-X if there going to be covered in dirt most of the time. Line-X or something similar will last alot longer and is more durable.

tyhuck Senior Enthusiast

tyhuck

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Thanks.

 

Paint will do for now, but I do want powdercoat in the future.

 

Eventually the whole truck will get a coat of Linex, but I have to pay it off first. Plus Ill probably wait till it actually needs a paint job to get that involved.

2007silveradonbs Enthusiast

2007silveradonbs

Posted
Posted

You need to strip all that primer off! It is just like having oils from your fingers on bare metal. Over time the oil will work its way to the surface and ruin your paint. You need to strip it and then use a cleaner on the metal.

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