Jump to content

back registration fee's(california)

z71MudDog

By z71MudDog
in The Off-Topic Bar

Recommended Posts

z71MudDog Enthusiast

z71MudDog

Posted
Posted

i am talking to a guy who wants to trade me a truck for my truck an he has $400 in back registration fee's on his truck.but he was rebuilding his engine.is there anyway that i will not have to pay for the back fee's since his truck was broke down and being rebuilt like showing receipts if he has them?

Wolfmanjohn Enthusiast

Wolfmanjohn

Posted
Posted

Call DMV or check the website: dmv.ca.gov for a definitive answer. Could be sticky, as it was the other guy's responsibility to put it on PNO status during the rebuild and take it off that status when the truck got back on the road. Crux of the bisquit here is that DMV is gonna want their money, and they will get it (they are, after all, an out of control autocracy); you just wanna make sure you're not the one producing it. Good luck, and again, make sure!

Wolfmanjohn Enthusiast

Wolfmanjohn

Posted
Posted

california is out of control....pot is legal wtf

 

 

Not so in Butte County any more; the Board of Supervisors voted to go with Federal law and shut all the dispensaries down. The Chico PD officer's association also voted to ignore prop 215 and go with Federal law; they enforce accordingly. If one wants to use their 215 card, they gotta drive to Sacramento to do it. Bottom line is that Butte is primarily an agricultural county, and thus conservative. Chico State students/mentality do not constitute the majority around here.

z71MudDog Enthusiast

z71MudDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

anyways has anyone everheard of that receipt thing? ive heard before and awhile ago someone told me he told dmv the car was broke down and he didnt have to pay the fee's

Wolfmanjohn Enthusiast

Wolfmanjohn

Posted
Posted

It's called PNO (planned non-operation) status, and should be verified through the DMV.

desrtrat Senior Enthusiast

desrtrat

Posted
Posted

``also make sure if you buy it, that it has a CURRENT SMOG CERT, AND PROOF THAT IT WAS SMOGED, stating it passed inspection with in the last 90 days pyor to sale..CA MOTOR VEHICLE CODE. if not, then you will be responsible for ANY AND ALL REPAIRS TO COMPLY... CA may suck hind tit on a lot of things, but this protects you as the consumer..

 

good luck

z71MudDog Enthusiast

z71MudDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

after its in my name all smog repairs are my responsiibility? even if it was sold to me without a cati have to replace it?

Morgan1986 Senior Enthusiast

Morgan1986

Posted
Posted

after its in my name all smog repairs are my responsiibility? even if it was sold to me without a cati have to replace it?

 

should not be so . I know with house laws if the seller does not inform you of the problem and you find it after you bought the house then there is problems in court for the prevouse house owner . example is turnmites.
latreille89 Enthusiast

latreille89

Posted
Posted

after its in my name all smog repairs are my responsiibility? even if it was sold to me without a cati have to replace it?

 

should not be so . I know with house laws if the seller does not inform you of the problem and you find it after you bought the house then there is problems in court for the prevouse house owner . example is turnmites.

 

 

That's only if they took out title insurance. A vehicle can be sold as is. And I have never heard of anyone being able to go after someone for selling a bad car.

z71MudDog Enthusiast

z71MudDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so if he told me it was missing a cat or something an i accepted it an i signed it into my name then the responsibility of fixing it would legally not be his??

z71MudDog Enthusiast

z71MudDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

would he be obligated in any way to adress the issue of a tampered emissions system after it was transfered to my name??

Wolfmanjohn Enthusiast

Wolfmanjohn

Posted
Posted

Nope, it's all on you, unless as stated above, the seller had the vehicle smogged within the 90 days prior to transfer of title. The seller should be the one getting the smog cert before sale and transfer of title, not the buyer after purchase, as smog certification is required to transfer title, unless it takes place within immediate family (ex., father->son), then just about anything goes, including valuation and sales taxes.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Gilkey96
    Newest Member
    Gilkey96
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 790 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • garagerog
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By garagerog · Posted

      Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Gilkey96
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By Gilkey96 · Posted

      Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though.   My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days!   It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there.   I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant...   End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished.   Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.
    • MORSNO
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By MORSNO · Posted

      Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...