Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
7 hours ago, superdeeduper said:

2500

Thanks.  Was wondering if your secondary tank was stock (2500) or added (1500).  

  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

I just purchased a 2001 Suburban 2500-4x4 6.0L in Hemet California. I drove it to Alabama and picked up a '93 2wd 6.5 diesel xtra cab 8' bed pickup, put it on a steel deck trailer and towed to Vermont-Lake Champlain area. The seller mentioned the dual tanks, and I looked, and there they were. My fuel gauge seems to work in a linear fashion, but one fillup from just above empty only took 28 gallons, another near empty took mid 30's, if I recall. I was on the road for 3+ weeks-4300 miles I filled up alot!

 

My first fill up was 18.5 miles per gallon, driving around 65 mph, with no AC, and then that dropped to around 15 or so before I loaded up truck & trailer, and loaded up, going 45 50 55, again with no AC plus I was entering the chili Northeast, mileage dropped to the 11 to 13 area. But I drive with a very light foot, I'm very careful to fillup on level ground, and the tank would only take one or two clicks after 1st clickoff, so there was really little room for error. The fuel mileage varied a lot more than I'm used to, and I always check my fuel mileage carefully. 

 

I know I'm wandering off base, but makes for good reading -:))

 

The Sub had 256k, 1 owner, now has 261k. 6 litre 4x4, and it really struggled up the mountains, but I was very lite on the throttle and used my 4way flashers as neccesary, which was alot!

 

We had 1' snow a couple days ago, pix taken 11 17 18. I will not be driving this Sub in the winter, I have a 1984 6.2 diesel 4x4 3/4 ton for winter. It just needs to go to the body shop for a tiny bit of rust repair and some paint touch-up. I brought it back from California 11 years ago, and it looks really good, it's just got to keep up on things. I rust-proof my winter driven vehicles extensively, and I've had very very good success keeping the rust at bay

1031181511a.jpg

1113181253a.jpg

IMG-20181117-WA0046.jpeg

IMG-20181117-WA0051.jpeg

IMG-20181116-WA0107.jpeg

Edited by corvairwild
Posted

I just purchased a 2001 Suburban 2500-4x4 6.0L in Hemet California. I drove it to Alabama and picked up a '93 2wd 6.5 diesel xtra cab 8' bed pickup, put it on a steel deck trailer and towed to Vermont-Lake Champlain area. The seller mentioned the dual tanks, and I looked, and there they were. My fuel gauge seems to work in a linear fashion, but one fillup from just above empty only took 28 gallons, another near empty took mid 30's, if I recall. I was on the road for 3+ weeks-4300 miles I filled up alot!

 

My first fill up was 18.5 miles per gallon, driving around 65 mph, with no AC, and then that dropped to around 15 or so before I loaded up truck & trailer, and loaded up going 45 50 55, again with no AC plus I was entering the chili Northeast, mileage dropped to the 11 to 13 area. But I drive with a very light foot, I'm very careful to fillup on level ground, and the tank would only take one or two clicks after 11st clickiff, so there was really little room for error. The fuel mileage varied a lot more than I'm used to, and I always check my fuel mileage carefully. 

 

I know I'm wandering off base, but makes for good reading. 

 

The Sub had 256k, 1 owner, now has 261k. 6 litre, and it really struggled up and down the mountains, but I was very lite on the throttle and used my 4way flashers as neccesary. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Do you have a wiring diagram for the rear tank fuel system. My rear fuel tank will not transfer to the front tank on my 2009 Suburban 2500. The level gauge is still reading.

  • 10 months later...
Posted
On 8/17/2018 at 6:43 PM, superdeeduper said:

so the last post in this thread on 11/19/2014.  did you ever get it figured out? (reviving an old post but this is the problem i'm having.)  i've got an 08 suburban w/LMM.  i'm guessing my secondary tank is not working because my last 2 fill-ups have only taken 24-ish gallons (roughly the size of the primary tank only) AND gas won't run into the filler hole at anything but a painfully slow rate when i'm re-fueling so i'm guessing the secondary tank pump is not activating and the tank is staying full and also preventing normal filling.

Did you ever figure this out? My 2013 Yukon XL with an LML conversion is showing almost exactly the same behavior.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...