Jump to content

Daytime Running Lights not working

jeb
 Share

Recommended Posts

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted (edited)

DAYTIME RUNNING LAMPS (DRL)

The daytime running lamps (DRL) will operate when the ignition switch is in the RUN position, for automatic transmissions (A/T), the gear selector is not in the PARK position, the headlamp switch is in the AUTO position, and for manual transmissions (M/T), the park brake is released. When these conditions have been met and the ambient light sensor indicates daytime conditions, the DRL will illuminate. The ambient light sensor is a light sensitive transistor that varies its voltage signal to the body control module (BCM) in response to changes to the outside (ambient) light level. When the BCM receives this signal it will either turn on the DRL or the headlamps for auto headlamp operation. Any function or condition that turns on the headlights will cancel the daytime running lamps operation. The DRL can be manually turned OFF by depressing the AHL/DRL switch in the headlamp switch. The AHL/DRL defeat switch sends a ground signal through the DRL switch signal circuit to the BCM. The BCM then turns OFF the DRL and headlamps switch to manual control. When the AHL/DRL are manually turned OFF at the headlamp switch, the AHL/DRL will default to ON with the next ignition cycle. The DRL are separate lamps independent of the headlamps. With the headlight switch in the AUTO position, the DRL will either be turned ON or OFF, after an approximate 8-second delay depending on whether daylight or low light conditions are sensed. The DRL 10-amp fuse in the underhood fuse block supplies battery positive voltage to the DRL relay switch contacts and relay coil. When the BCM energizes the DRL relay , the DRL receive voltage on the DRL supply voltage circuit. Ground for the DRL is at G100.

 

 

 

 

 

2004DRLschem1.gif

Edited by txab
jeb Enthusiast

jeb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks. I'll find some time to see if I can trace it back. Looks like the BCM relay might need a look. But you'd think that since the DRL's do work for the lock/unlock, that'd be okay, too.

tesnoboy Enthusiast

tesnoboy

Posted
Posted

Did you buy this truck used? It sounds like somebody monkeyed up the DRL circuit. They should not be acting that way.

jeb Enthusiast

jeb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nope. As I said above, I bought it brand new. Been a great truck.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Gmcgeorge New Member

Gmcgeorge

Posted
Posted

I have a 2008 gmc sierra 1500 and I am the second owner. I just bought the truck and recently noticed that the driver side DRL light won't come on, but the passenger side does. Like you said about them flashing when you lock/unlock the doors, mine does the same, they flash but but when I turn the one won't stay on? I am totally confused about what is happening. I have been through it a million times and will take it in, maybe someone else can figure out what I can't!

Gmcgeorge New Member

Gmcgeorge

Posted
Posted

I found out it was just a fuse under the hood that I didn't check #26 (Driver Side Park Lamps) also the (passenger side park lamps) in your case is #27 if you haven't checked those under the hood that could be it!!

Gmcgeorge New Member

Gmcgeorge

Posted
Posted

I found out it was just a fuse under the hood that I didn't check #26 (Driver Side Park Lamps) also the (passenger side park lamps) in your case is #27 if you haven't checked those under the hood that could be it!!

  • 1 year later...
davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

Thx for listing the conditions the DRL's are on for, as I was incorrectly assuming they would be on with the engine [and was checking with it in Park, so no power to either plug, but fuse and relay were good, so I was about try digging into the wiring harness]. Thankfully, I googled for DRLs not working and came across this thread.

 

Now, I put on the parking brake, put it in gear, and like magic, power to the DRLs. One DRL was working fine, and the other has an iffy socket [there seems to be a bunch of burnt resin in the socket and both sockets and blubs look like they've been getting too hot]. I might have to go to the men's mall and get some replacement sockets, but it seems like they weren't designed right [as the bulbs should be able to be on all day without overheating the socket].

  • 3 years later...
Ccarpenter New Member

Ccarpenter

Posted
Posted

Jeb,  sorry I know this post was forever ago, but I have an 06 Silverado that’s doing the exact same thing. DRL‘s flash and stay on for 10 Sec when I’m unlocking the door just like yours, but they don’t ever come on during the day like they are supposed to. The fuses aren’t bad, and I’ve tries putting it in gear to make sure, did you ever figure anything out with yours? 

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted (edited)

Did you read completely through the posts and look at all the things mentioned?

 

First thing is to make sure your headlights aren't illuminated during the day

Edited by txab
Ccarpenter New Member

Ccarpenter

Posted
Posted

I did, headlights function normally, DRL’s come on when locking or unlocking doors and stay lit for around 10 seconds, otherwise I can’t ever get them to come on. Tried placing the truck in drive in the daylight, and checked the fuses.  

  • 8 months later...
Matt leggett New Member

Matt leggett

Posted
Posted

I have a 04 chevy 5.3l and have the exact same issue, they drl comes on for a delayed 10 secs when unlocking but wont come on when i have the key to on but engine off and parking brake on, head lamps work perfectly fine but the drls wont come on when driving...any suggestions

 

  • 3 years later...
Steve Griffith New Member

Steve Griffith

Posted
Posted

I had them when working but now the drivers side doesnt work. I checked the voltage coming out and it's only 2.0 volts. That's up?

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

Well, you need to go back through the circuit and see where the voltage drop is.  The bulb connectors are known to have problems, as the original ones are just barely good enough to not immediately burn up.  Could also be corrosion, or a poor connection elsewhere.  You might also check that the ground connection is good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...