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Coolant leak at water pump

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scooby5121 Enthusiast

scooby5121

Posted
Posted

Salvage Yards are great for light lenses, body moulding parts, stufff that is impartial to the safe operation of my vehicles.

But now I am thinking on buying used brake pads since I do not brake very often!!!!!!!! from the salvage yard.....

Just kidding NOT

 

Scooby

00Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

00Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted

OK, so...

Salvage yards exist for a purpose, right? What kinds of parts would you, would you not, would you maybe, would you NEVER EVER EVER buy used or salvage if there is a difference? People put in whole engines and transmissions used. I'll do what I have to do but I would like to understand instead of spending more money out of FUD (fear, uncertainty and doubt).

And then riddle me this. ACDelco has two parts, a Professional and an OE Service. Is the Pro acceptable or only the OE? Why? Why is a Chinese ACDelco pump better than a Chinese (or not) pump from another mfgr? Why is it better than a rebuild?

Or is it only some parts and not others? I've put a salvage EGR valve and MAF sensor in already. They seem to work like a charm. I bought a CV shaft for the left front axle, from Nordstrom's in South Dakota, advertised to have 3 (three) miles on it (hail damaged 03 Avalanche on dealer's lot). I had to do the LF wheel hub when I first got it last year - thought to go salvage, but was scared into buying new - but I rarely use 4WD so for at $30 for the shaft, vs $300 new ACDelco, I thought I'd try it. You think these are time bombs?

 

If a starter pulled from a scrap engine fails, you're out a starter & a tow job. Used water pump fails and your out what??? A pump, a tow & now an engine...that's how I decide what I'd be willing to use from a salvage yard.

Nichevo Enthusiast

Nichevo

Posted
Posted

Just remember, the bad one is also a used pump.

 

Mark

 

 

haaaaa ,,,perfect !!

 

lmao !!!

 

 

 

Yeah, lol, Well every used part was once a new part, and every bad part was once a new part. And yeah, whole plan is to do it myself/with a friend.

 

I figured if my old pump went 220K miles, a 60K pump should have 160K left in it. I missed the used pump I was bidding on and got this: a C.A.T. WP366, anybody ever heard of them, good, bad? It has what look like paper gaskets and, curiously, an inlet gasket as well as the o-ring. Didn't know I needed that.

 

Now I gotta buy an inlet/thermostat. Another $20-30 down the drain. Well, hope it works.

Nichevo Enthusiast

Nichevo

Posted
Posted

OK, so...

Salvage yards exist for a purpose, right? What kinds of parts would you, would you not, would you maybe, would you NEVER EVER EVER buy used or salvage if there is a difference? People put in whole engines and transmissions used. I'll do what I have to do but I would like to understand instead of spending more money out of FUD (fear, uncertainty and doubt).

 

And then riddle me this. ACDelco has two parts, a Professional and an OE Service. Is the Pro acceptable or only the OE? Why? Why is a Chinese ACDelco pump better than a Chinese (or not) pump from another mfgr? Why is it better than a rebuild?

Or is it only some parts and not others? I've put a salvage EGR valve and MAF sensor in already. They seem to work like a charm. I bought a CV shaft for the left front axle, from Nordstrom's in South Dakota, advertised to have 3 (three) miles on it (hail damaged 03 Avalanche on dealer's lot). I had to do the LF wheel hub when I first got it last year - thought to go salvage, but was scared into buying new - but I rarely use 4WD so for at $30 for the shaft, vs $300 new ACDelco, I thought I'd try it. You think these are time bombs?

 

If a starter pulled from a scrap engine fails, you're out a starter & a tow job. Used water pump fails and your out what??? A pump, a tow & now an engine...that's how I decide what I'd be willing to use from a salvage yard.

 

 

That's how I felt about the wheel hub, a catastrophic failure could lead to totaling the vehicle. It seems to me, or seemed, that the pump is failing now, and the garage encouraged me to drive it till it got worse. So I wouldn't have thought of it as a bomb under the hood. I figured, it fails, temp rises rapidly, i gotta pull over and drive home like Grandma, get it fixed. But you all seem to think it can more or less become a grenade under the hood?

 

Meanwhile, what else should I PM while I'm at it? Belts are cheap I guess, but I've had that truck looked at a score of times and nobody said Hey, do the belts. Or hoses. Or pulleys, tensioners, idlers, whatever. They did say do the thermostat while I'm at it, but I'd have to anyway, the integrated stat/inlet plus some short inlet related bolts are needed for the new pump.

 

My instinct is to touch nothing I don't have to touch. The last owner did like zip for this car, hardly even oil changes. I know all the fluids should be done - I suppose they should be done; been long planning to flush and refill with Dex-Cool, thought they would do that when they did the knocks; but I worry about things like the tranny, which shifts almost imperceptibly and seems just fine, but I question whether the ATF has ever, ever been touched - point is I don't know, because my friend is dead; but his mechanic for like seven years says oil changes is about all he ever did....so is the 4L-60E better left alone? Is it worth DIY? Me or the garage, do a filter or not? Dexron III or VI or something else?

 

Point being at 222K miles, this is about all that's wrong with her. This, the CV shaft, and the AC evaporator has a three-day leak.

 

OK, and the ABS light comes on sometimes - C0267, 0268, had the recall done to clean Ground 110 - and very occasionally the brake light; all go off if I cycle the ignition. Don't know if that means new EBCM, new ABS pump, or just go over the wiring and grounds yet again. ABS functions in a sudden stop when the light is not on.

 

Tow/Haul switch has a mind of its own. Cruise control light goes on but has stopped gverning speed; garage said new lockspring. Shopping ebay it seems cheaper and easier to do a new (is salvage ok?) steering column with all my options already on it.

 

But aside from the pump (and the AC, it is hot), nothing seems like I can't ignore it. Drives smooth as a Cadillac IMHO (it's the LT if that matters). Built in Silao, raises my opinion of Mexican quality.

 

But this is the first truck I've owned (second Chevy - first was a Cavalier 20 years ago with a rebuilt engine which promptly white-smoked and I left it on the side of the road - $300 gone), so maybe I am just lucky and the next donor truck will have been a POS. I'm just assuming that the next pump would have a 220K mile lifespan and if I got, say, that 06 pump with 60K miles on it, it would go another 100K easy. Maybe now they're all lemons, I dunno. I seem to hear from lots of people with lots worse issues than mine.

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

You don't wan to overheat one of these engines if the pump fails. Head gaskets, aluminum heads and high heat are not a great combo. So no driving like grandma. That's why new pump and t'stat. Please don't tell us you get your belts and hoses from the junkyard too. The TH switch is a simple wire break in the column

Nichevo Enthusiast

Nichevo

Posted
Posted

You don't wan to overheat one of these engines if the pump fails. Head gaskets, aluminum heads and high heat are not a great combo. So no driving like grandma. That's why new pump and t'stat. Please don't tell us you get your belts and hoses from the junkyard too. The TH switch is a simple wire break in the column

 

 

Noted, no limping home, thanks. Used rubber? God, no, I don't think I'm THAT stupid (though I have considered used tires). Then again, lol, I once had a Volvo 740 turbo...turbo hose went...$450 for a new turbo hose...I mighta considered salvage there!

 

Yeah, TH is a short, but supposedly you gotta tear down the whole column and the dash to get to it...

 

if not, please advise!...

 

and then supposedly wiring fixes never work and you gotta put in a whole new shift lever. I had a chance to buy a shift lever for $10 on ebay but missed that and now can't find one under $50, $80 is more like it. Plus the coil kit which I can hardly even identify which one is for me. A steering column with all that on it is about $70 plus $30 s&h.

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

Search this site several threads/post about the TH problem. Is a relatively easy fix IIRC.

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