Jump to content

P0452


dlstewart01

Recommended Posts

Posted

Started the 2005 GMC this morning and the fuel gage did not work and a low fuel message came on. When I parked it last night it had a half tank of fuel. The check engine light was also on.

 

I pulled the code and it came up P0452. Thats for a fuel tank pressure sensor. The truck runs normal. I drove it for about 5 miles with no issues.

 

I have not got into it yet but since the fuel gage is not working as well do you think I need the fuel pump/sending unit or just the pressure sensor? The pressure sensor is mounted on the pump unit.

 

Could be a wiring/ ground problem. I think both of them may share some same wiring. What do the experts say.

Posted

Put a GM fuel pump module in it

 

 

It has the original fuel pump on it and it works perfect. There is a problem with the fuel tank presure sensor and the fuel gage that showed up together.

 

Before someone brings it up, I have an extra cluster that I know the fuel gage works. I will swap them out to rule out a bad stepper motor. I was just wondering if some one else has had this problem.

 

Thanks

Posted

The code pulled is PO452...fuel tank pressure sensor. The local dealer told me to replace the sensor. He said the fuel gage was a seperate matter. i don't think so. I could be wrong but I don't think so.

Posted

I scanned it. I just ran it by their tech to get his opinion.

 

I may have to get a diagnosis. I was trying to save a buck. I am retired and don't have to drive it every day so I got time.

Posted

im adding the code ,its hard to figure out the diag trouble tree at the bottom ,,answer to yes is first then no is second ,,it then sends you to another line,,,a scanner is needed of course but a little info doesn't hurt ,,,,PM me if ya want ,i can explain it further or a phone call ...i want to help bud as the possibilities can be disastrous financially if the wrong part is installed as you can see in the tree,,

 

 

DTC P0452

 

Circuit Description

 

The fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor measures the difference between the air pressure or vacuum in the evaporative emission (EVAP) system, and the outside air pressure. The control module supplies a 5-volt reference and a low reference circuit to the FTP sensor. The FTP sensor signal circuit voltage varies depending on EVAP system pressure or vacuum. If the FTP sensor signal voltage goes below a calibrated value, this DTC sets.

The following table illustrates the relationship between the FTP sensor signal voltage and the EVAP system pressure/vacuum.

 

FTP Sensor Signal Voltage

 

 

 

Fuel Tank Pressure

 

 

 

High, Approximately 1.5 Volts or More

 

 

Negative Pressure/Vacuum

 

 

Low, Approximately 1.5 Volts or Less

 

 

Positive Pressure

 

DTC Descriptor

 

This diagnostic procedure supports the following DTC:

DTC?P0452 Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage

Conditions for Running the DTC

 

 

 

 

 

 

Conditions for Setting the DTC

 

 

 

 

 

 

Action Taken When the DTC Sets

 

 

 

 

 

 

Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Test Description

 

The number below refers to the step number on the diagnostic table.

5 This step tests for the proper operation of the circuit in the high voltage range.

 

Step

 

 

 

Action

 

 

 

Value(s)

 

 

 

Yes

 

 

 

No

 

 

 

Schematic Reference: Engine Controls Schematics

 

Connector End View Reference: Engine Controls Connector End Views or Powertrain Control Module Connector End Views

 

 

1

 

 

Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check – Vehicle?

 

 

 

 

Go to Step?2

 

 

Go to Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle

 

 

2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Did DTC?P0641 or P0651 fail this ignition?

 

 

 

 

Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle

 

 

Go to Step?3

 

 

3

 

 

Observe the fuel tank pressure sensor parameter with the scan tool.

 

Does the scan tool indicate that fuel tank pressure sensor parameter is less than the specified value?

 

 

0.1?V

 

 

Go to Step?5

 

 

Go to Step?4

 

 

4

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Did the DTC fail this ignition?

 

 

 

 

Go to Step?5

 

 

Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections

 

 

<a href="http://gsi.xw.gm.com/newsi/showDoc.do?docSyskey=1398849&cellId=30498&pubObjSyskey=2810312&from=sm&pubCellSyskey=347017&deliveryEffectiveDate=Jun+1%2C+2012#td05">5

 

 

 

 

1. Turn OFF the ignition.

 

 

 

2. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to

Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .

 

 

 

3. Disconnect the fuel tank wiring harness at the fuel tank harness connector.

 

 

 

4. Connect a 3-amp fused jumper wire between the 5-volt reference circuit of the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor and the signal circuit of the FTP sensor.

 

 

 

5. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.

 

 

 

6. Observe the fuel tank pressure sensor voltage with a scan tool.

 

 

Is the fuel tank pressure sensor parameter greater than the specified value?

 

 

4.8?V

 

 

Go to Step?8

 

 

Go to Step?6

 

 

6

 

 

Test the 5-volt reference circuit of the FTP sensor for an open between the fuel tank harness connector and the control module. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs .

 

Did you find and correct the condition?

 

 

 

 

Go to Step?12

 

 

Go to Step?7

 

 

7

 

 

Test the signal circuit of the FTP sensor for a short to ground, or an open between the fuel tank harness connector and the control module. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs .

 

Did you find and correct the condition?

 

 

 

 

Go to Step?12

 

 

Go to Step?9

 

 

8

 

 

 

 

1. Remove the fuel tank. Refer to

Fuel Tank Replacement .

 

 

 

2. Inspect the fuel tank wiring harness for the following:

 

 

 

• Damaged wiring

 

 

 

• Poor connections

 

 

 

• Broken wires inside the insulation—Refer to

Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs .

 

 

Did you find and correct the condition?

 

 

 

 

Go to Step?12

 

 

Go to Step?10

 

 

9

 

 

Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the control module. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs .

 

Did you find and correct the condition?

 

 

 

 

Go to Step?12

 

 

Go to Step?11

 

 

10

 

 

Replace the FTP sensor. Refer to Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Replacement .

 

Did you complete the replacement?

 

 

 

 

Go to Step?12

 

 

 

 

11

 

 

Replace the powertrain control module (PCM). Refer to Control Module References for replacement, setup, and programming.

 

Did you complete the replacement?

 

 

 

 

Go to Step?12

 

 

 

 

12

 

 

 

 

1. Observe the Freeze Frame/Failure Records for this DTC.

 

 

 

2. Turn OFF the ignition for 30?seconds.

 

 

 

3. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.

 

 

 

4. Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC. You may also operate the vehicle within the conditions that you observed from the Freeze Frame/Failure Records.

 

 

Did the DTC fail this ignition?

 

 

 

 

Go to Step?2

 

 

Go to Step?13

 

 

13

 

 

Observe the Capture Info with a scan tool.

 

Have any other DTCs not been diagnosed?

 

 

 

 

Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle

 

 

System OK

Posted

Thanks so much for your help. I can see where this may not be easy. I don't want to throw parts at it or spend money I don't have to.

 

I will get back on it tomorrow. I may have to get the dealer involved. I can change out the semsor if I knew that was it. I still believe the non operating fuel gage is also part of this problem. I will change out the cluster tomorrow and rule that out. Thats an easy one.

 

Thanks again.

Posted

Well eliminated the cluster. I had my orginal cluster that I took out when I bought the truck and put a cluster with a trans temp gage in. This cluster only has a few miles and I know it to be good. Put it in and fuel gage does not work and low fuel message.

 

Now I also have code P0463 fuel level sensor circuit high imput. I guess thats causing the fuel gage to not work.

 

I was hoping that some one had had this problem or a dealership person had seen this before.

 

So it looks like I need a fuel tank pressure sensor and a fuel level sender. heck might as well get a new fuel pump. The pump has to come out to replace the sending unit.

 

Oh yeah, the trucks runs perfect.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...