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Wanting to run 3 amps need help on parts


Chris

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Posted

Is there a distribution block I should use or run everything straight to battery. Also wire size details. I will be running a 750 watt mono amp for my subs, a 100x2 watt for my front doors and a 50x2 for my rear doors

Posted

sell the small front and rear amps and buy one amp that is bigger would be my opinion. the only way i run disto blocks is if i'm running 0 gauge to the back. with that small of a set up you could run 4 gauge back, 4 off of that to the 750 and 8 gauge to the two smaller amps.

Posted

 

I didnt know what my best option is. I havent purchased anything yet. I only have upgraded my front and rear speakers. They are rated at 100 each RMS for the front and 50 for the back. Kinda screwed on the back because I have to run 4x6's. I got Polk DXi 4x6 plate speakers for them
Posted

So how do I deal with the different power requirements? I dont want to underpower the front doors or overpower the rear doors

Posted

why are you doing this? where are you going to put all of this nonsense?

 

 

ive have a friend with an GMT800 ext cab and has all of his speaker crap bolted under the seat

 

why are you doing this? where are you going to put all of this nonsense?

 

 

ive have a friend with an GMT800 ext cab and has all of his speaker crap bolted under the seat

Posted

I have 2 subs under my back seat right now. the amp is mounted on the back of the cab behind the seat and that is where the new ones will be as well. I did my front speakers and will do my rears hopefully tomorrow when I get a new soldering iron

Posted

did you take your rear seat out to mount it there? i tried to get the bolts holding the rear bench on off and they will not budge

Posted

I didn't do it, a shop did when I lived in Florida. I believe they pulled the seat. Ill find out in a month or so

Posted

Your amp will run the power as it is meant to do. It doesn't matter the rms as long as the amp isn't pushing over the speakers Max power it can handle. Also, an amp,or I should say the top of the line ones, only run 80% efficient either way so I wouldn't be worried about your setup.

Posted

so with Polk DXi 6500's rated at 100/300 in the front and Polk DXi 460p's rated at 50/150 in the rear would I be good with the kicker ZX350.4 which puts out 90x4 at 2 ohms.Polk says the speakers are 4 ohm so what range should I be looking at?

Posted

Either one of those amps will be fine for those door speakers. Really, you will notice a hell of a difference from the stock h/u.

Posted

I changed stock HU to a Pioneer AVH-P4400BH. I think Im going with the Kenwood for my doors. I have to find one for my subs. I know both are getting 4 gauge wire. So far looking at the Kicker ZX750.1 or Kenwood KAC-9105D to power 2 JL 10" W3 4 ohm speakers

Posted

I changed stock HU to a Pioneer AVH-P4400BH. I think Im going with the Kenwood for my doors. I have to find one for my subs. I know both are getting 4 gauge wire. So far looking at the Kicker ZX750.1 or Kenwood KAC-9105D to power 2 JL 10" W3 4 ohm speakers

 

Get the kenwood. I am a kicker guy myself but I think they like to overprice their amps. I actually have that exact kenwood right now powering my two 10in Kicker cvt's and it sounds perfect. I had an mtx jackhammer before it, I had two different kickers before I had the kenwood so I had the setup rated for the old subs, now that I have swapped amps, it has been a world of difference and its always a plus for fan cooled amps! Here is the site I use for all my electronic needs. They usually are priced better than Crutchfield and most of the time have free shipping. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22574_Kenwood-KAC-9105D.html

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