Truck Needs More Juice

Carder09 · October 25, 2012

Well, he is using them for subs. Being that when a sub hits, there is no constant power hit, its constantly fluctuating causing more or less of a power draw when the multiple frequencies hit. That's what's causing the dimming including all of his accessories being ran also.

music · October 25, 2012

Just to clarify, I don't doubt that the lights are dimming, and I don't know much about how much current the rest of the truck pulls. I'm a numbers guy, so I always start there when possible. Assuming the amp is capable of 600W RMS, then it can pull ~ 600W * sqrt(2) / 12V = ~70A peak (@12V). How does that number compare to the stock alternator output minus the other stuff (headlights, etc)? It's just hard to imagine the primary cables being too small... but I'm no expert on car audio power delivery.

Carder09 · October 25, 2012

Just to clarify, I don't doubt that the lights are dimming, and I don't know much about how much current the rest of the truck pulls. I'm a numbers guy, so I always start there when possible. Assuming the amp is capable of 600W RMS, then it can pull ~ 600W * sqrt(2) / 12V = ~70A peak (@12V). How does that number compare to the stock alternator output minus the other stuff (headlights, etc)? It's just hard to imagine the primary cables being too small... but I'm no expert on car audio power delivery.

Lol, I'm the same way. Numbers help.but factor in imperfections and laws of anything and the numbers are just a basic standard of an equation. Unless the cables are at least 0/1 gauge, then you still can get better grounds and power cables routed from alt to battle to ground and the big three kit comes with secondary.posts for a dual battle setup in case you want to add another batt. I can tell you from experience that yes, his lights are intermittent when they dim as when the bass hits, the light dim then return normal and so on and so forth. Its the initial hits that are doing it not the accessories as a whole.

Chris · October 25, 2012

If your numbers figure 50-70a drawn by my amp and subs. My alt puts out 105. That's half or more juice. Plus all other accessories.

I was thinking about getting some wire from stinger. I know their wire is true to the gauge as well

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Carder09 · October 25, 2012

If you go with the stingers, look up the lengths that big three kits come in so you know you will be good to go.

SouthCo · October 26, 2012

I'd agree with others saying upgrade the alt to atleast the 145 and then do the "big 3".

StinkyCheese · October 27, 2012

When I was running my system all I did was upgrade the alternator from 105a to 130a or somewhere around there. Didn't really need to as the stock one ran my sub amp and my 4 channel amp just fine. One amp was rated 70a max and the other was 60a. Only time they would dim would be at a street light with it cranked up. 80% of my driving is at night. I miss my system, this stock bose crap just makes me miss my infiniti set up even more. Upgrade the alternator and see what that does.

Jennabear · October 31, 2012

Yep, swap out that 105 for a 200+ and you should be good. Are you running e-fans? That will also have a huge draw, the 105 is not build to withstand that load.

Prokopchuk_9 · October 31, 2012

I ran 1200 watt class D with dual batteries, 145 amp alt, big 3 it was perfect. No draw at all, no flicker. Try the big 3 first before you do anything else, some vehicles it makes a HUGE difference. I had the same problem as you with my 2002, when I did big 3 it made world of a difference!!

Whatever you do dont waste your money on a cap. Total waste of your money unless the alt can keep up.

Chris · October 31, 2012

No e fans yet. They're on the to do list.

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spankrz · November 1, 2012

my truck has a 145 amp alt. and standard stock replacement battery and i have not done the "big three". my old setup made 1475 rms. i used 4ga welding ground lead for hookup wire and used a 1.5 farad capacitor, and lights would stay pretty constant even cranked on the loudest songs. now i am running dual memphis 500 monos with no capacitor and my lights still don't dim near as badly as you are describing.

Big_D · November 2, 2012

I'm running x2 Memphis amps with 1800rms total and my lights dim/flicker real bad...

I wonder why? Lol Big 3 and another battery would solve it tho

Chris · November 3, 2012

I ordered my 300 amp alternator, now I am now ordering the supplies for the big 3 upgrade. Should I fuse the alternator to battery feed? I was looking at 300 amp fuses too because I noticed some kits come with fuses and some dont. I am ordering the supplies to do it my self so I can have Stinger HPM 1/0 to match my HPM 4 gauge amp power feed.

But should I fuse?

Prokopchuk_9 · November 4, 2012

I ordered my 300 amp alternator, now I am now ordering the supplies for the big 3 upgrade. Should I fuse the alternator to battery feed? I was looking at 300 amp fuses too because I noticed some kits come with fuses and some dont. I am ordering the supplies to do it my self so I can have Stinger HPM 1/0 to match my HPM 4 gauge amp power feed.

But should I fuse?

I never did...both vehicles. 6 years combined no issues. Just make sure your grounds are nice a clean to make for a good connection!!

By the way you ain't messin around 300 amper!!! LOL...your truck is gonna glow!!!