Brakes locking up for no reason

krisq · July 14, 2016

I'm having the same problem, I have replaced both the booster and the master cylinder, and I still have the brakes(all 4) locking up. I have also tried to find a new push rod that goes between the booster and master. The GM dealers around me have no idea and have been very little help. Does anyone have any other ideas? I am about ready to cut the push rod down but would like to be able to find another one first in case it does not work....

Newone4321 · August 14, 2019

So did you figure it out? I’m having same problem on 2000 2500 gmc. But my fronts are locking up? I can’t figure this one out?

Eli Mccurry · September 7, 2019

I'm having the same problem with a 01 gmc sierra 2wd it's got all 4 disc breaks wasnt having no trouble with them until I put new break pads all the way around and then notice a break caliper sticking so I buy a new caliper put it on and then after that I notice all 4 of my breaks holding. I have opened my bleaders and there is no pressure there so I go up to my master cylinder open the 2 lines on it to see my wheels will release and after opening them they still want release. So I then take it off the booster and still no difference I'm lost right now because I dont see how all 4 calipers went bad at once and i dont see all 4 break lines going bad at once. All I did was replaced the breaks and now I'm lost. Cause theres no fluid built up on the caliper nor theres no fluid built up at the master cylinder. Is it possible it can still be the master cylinder or the booster or the abs module? All the help I can get will be appreciated because I dont want to buy all new calipers along with a master cylinder booster and abs module so let me know your thoughts

dough · September 16, 2019

I am having the same problem. 2005 Chevy Silverado with rear drums. Front brakes slowly locked up and started smoking. Had it towed home, then had to replace front rotors, pads, calipers. Also replaced master cylinder, booster pump (vacuum). It seemed to work fine at first, but the next day started locking up again. Replaced both brake hoses in front. Still doing it. Mechanic friends are confused by this. Chevy dealer has no information that is helpful. I am thinking ABS module or pump at this point as the sensors appear to be working. Also no ABS or brake warning lights during any of this. Any other ideas?

Mudbone performance · September 18, 2019

Abs Brake modulator the motor on it shorts out back feeds the abs module and also cause the modulator pump motor to come on witch pumps your brake lines causing your brakes to lock up

Mudbone performance · September 18, 2019

So replace your abs brake modulator and you probably have to replace the abs brake module as well because of the back feed of power from abs brake modulator motor and dont get a used part most of your trucks in the junk yard have this abs problem get new

Blake Peterson · September 25, 2019

Hello Chevy Family!

I have a few questions, if anyone is able to help me?

I’m having braking problems very similar to each of you.

The Vehicle:

Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 2007.5 6.6 turbo diesel Allison transmission crew cab loaded.

Long story written up below the short version.

Short version:

-Driving warm vehicle on highway for 5-10 min when rear passenger brake seizes.

-Limp up to gas station- by that time super hot and super stuck.

-Wait overnight for it to cool off, to my surprise I am able to drive it home.

What would cause truck to drive fine for 30 min then out of nowhere while driving at highway speeds only one caliper seizes up locked tight.

Then release when it’s cooled off, but still be stuck slightly to where it’s not back to normal??

My plan of action as of now...

-I need new rotors and pads in the rear so I’m going to change those now.

-Change my brake fluid in resivourre and then flush lines and bleed brake system.

-Im going to price the rubber brake lines and if possible I’m going to change those two too.

— Hopefully that fixes the problem...???

What would you do??

Another issue, my hydroboost is leaking so I’m going to see if I can change that too bc it needs to be done either way I guess.

Anyway this Could have caused my brake problem?

Story:

I was driving the vehicle maybe 45 min around town and at highway speeds before this happened, stopped at home for 15 min, got back on the road for a two hour trip and made it maybe 5 miles at highway speeds before I noticed the chug of the engine pulling hard.

I was driving out of town on the highway the other day when I noticed something wrong, I thought maybe I had a flat tire. I pulled over and saw the heat coming off the rear passenger tire as if the brake was seizing up. I limped it up to the gas station and left it there overnight, by the time I got there it was wicked hot I poured water on it.

I went back the next day hoping to get it home somehow and to my surprise, I was able to get the truck moving and back home.

Now I'm home and the brakes are still applied but can move the truck some.

Im hoping it could be a fix as simple as the rubber brake hoses being replaced?

I need to do my brake pads and rotors, might as well do them now, but I don’t think it’s going to help my problem specifically.

I saw someone say they replaced their brake lines, the rubber caliper brake lines, the calipers, the rotors and pads and still didn’t fix their problem and ended up being the hydroboost or something up top.

I don’t have the money to just start replacing things willy nilly hoping for a cure to my problem.

Besides my brake problem- my power steering system has a rather large leak in the system somewhere. I believe it’s leaking from the hydroboost as it collects road grime from that point and below. I don’t have money for a dealership to help me so I’ve just been tipping it off and skating by and now I fear the two problems might be related- as I understand the brakes get their power from the power steering system.

Thanks for your help guys.

Any suggestions or links to articles with Similar issues resolved would be much appreciated!!

Carl.

dough · October 15, 2019

My 2005 Silverado brakes seem to be properly again. I replaced the ABS Module and the ABS Modulator Valve. I was hesitant to replace these, until I read the post from Gabe in Arizona. It made sense what he said and since I had replaced all the other parts, other than the hard brake lines and speed sensors, it was really all I had left. I was quoted a lot of high prices for wrong parts at different parts stores, so make sure you read carefully the description to make sure you get the right ones. I was quoted as much as $800 for the Valve alone, but got both parts(one new, one remanufactured) for about $500 on line. Rock Auto got me the parts in about 4 days. Thanks to all and I hope this may help other.

Mudbone performance · November 10, 2019

Ya i forgot to add the problem child for the lock up brakes of course is the most exspensive system for those years unfortunately with active abs all the other abs module set ups from gm when they go bad they just leave you with a abs light and brake light and you can drive forever like that but its just this one that locks up the abs

Jnordland · November 16, 2019

John Kramer · January 22, 2020

Any update on the situation I am having the same problem with at 2002 Escalade

Joe Dehoyos · February 23, 2020

The front left break on my 2004 Chevy Tahoe is locking up we just replace the caliper and it is still doing the same thing when I hit the brakes while I'm driving the front left brake locks up but releases when I let go of the brake

davester · February 23, 2020

3 hours ago, Joe Dehoyos said:

The front left break on my 2004 Chevy Tahoe is locking up we just replace the caliper and it is still doing the same thing when I hit the brakes while I'm driving the front left brake locks up but releases when I let go of the brake

When bleeding all 4 corners, fluid comes out easily?

TOGA1116 · July 16, 2020

On 10/15/2019 at 2:39 PM, dough said:

My 2005 Silverado brakes seem to be properly again. I replaced the ABS Module and the ABS Modulator Valve. I was hesitant to replace these, until I read the post from Gabe in Arizona. It made sense what he said and since I had replaced all the other parts, other than the hard brake lines and speed sensors, it was really all I had left. I was quoted a lot of high prices for wrong parts at different parts stores, so make sure you read carefully the description to make sure you get the right ones. I was quoted as much as $800 for the Valve alone, but got both parts(one new, one remanufactured) for about $500 on line. Rock Auto got me the parts in about 4 days. Thanks to all and I hope this may help other.

I have the exact problem as dough. I've replace the master cylinder, hydroboost (twice), front calipers, pads all around, AND i replaced the ABS module & pump (with a salvaged one). I thought the ABS module would be the one to fix it, but it wasn't. It did the same exact thing after replacing it. I haven't done the rod length thing because 1) I've never messed with the rod 2) Why would it do it intermittently and infrequently? Any other suggestions folks?? I've had it at two different mechanics and they're both at a loss.