Jump to content

2003 Silverado Tailgate Issues


highroller152

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

So I was really thinking this was going to be an easy one - but then again, Custer thought he was going to be fine too...

Anyhow, the left latch on the tailgate will open to allow for me to open the tailgate, but it does not reset itself. So it stays in the open position so if you try to close the tailgate, the latch just bounces against the tailgate striker bolt. You have to pull the handle open and manually fiddle with the latch to get it to open up to close the tailgate. I suspect a spring in the latch is probably shot. Simple enough - just buy a new latch, right? Well, for the life of me I have been unable to find a p/n for that latch let alone what the latch is actually called. See, if you do a search for tailgate latch pretty much all that comes up are references and images of the handle. I don't need the handle, I need the driver's side latch assembly.

Can anyone help me out?

V/R

Highroller

Posted

Try "endgate latch"....there are a couple on eBay. Looks like all of the 800 series trucks use the same part(s). P/N 15921948 should be what you are looking for. The right side (passenger) would be P/N 15921949.

Posted

@bossier62guy: Thank you very much! I'll do some digging on that and see if that gets me any further. Seemed like every time I did a search for anything dealing with tailgate and latch, all that came up was the handle.

 

@8.1HD/ALLISON: Thank you for your suggestion. We took it apart yesterday and the return spring is missing. I only wish WD-40 and duct tape could fix that :\

 

Have a great day fellas and merry Christmas!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Update: bossier62guy hit the nail on the head. $75 on eBay, $115 @ the stealership. All over a broken spring. Oh well.

 

I did have one question: has anyone replaced the latch before? This is all for my father in law and he called me all excited to replace the latch but was having issues getting it in. So he is coming by this weekend and I told him that we'd get er done then. Are there any exploded parts views that anyone can point me at? I've done a bunch of googleing but all I keep ending up with is how to fix the handle or the pull-rods in the handle (although everyone keeps wanting to refer to that handle as the latch... very frustrating).

Anyhow, thanks for any help.

V/R

Highroller

Posted

That's what we're here for....glad I could help :D

 

Just a few pointers.....be very careful removing that bezel on the outside of the tailgate and with the plastic clips holding the rods to the latch and handle. If you happen to break any of that stuff you can find all of it in the "help" section at most auto parts stores.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...