Tail gate latch, possible fix

[green 788]

This may help some of you with tail gate latch problems in trucks in the late 80's through late 90's  (and probably other years too).

 

The problem is the gate doesn't latch on both sides, or sometimes folks will use the gate with only one side latching until that side goes bad also.   I've seen a lot of trucks about the same year model as mine (1996) with ratchet straps holding up the tailgate. 

 

The tailgate can also pop open while you're driving if this latch mechanism malfunctions...

 

First of all, check to be sure that the springs operating the latch on each side of the tailgate are not broken (they're probably not)... do this by taking a flat screwdriver and pressing in on each latch to be sure it springs back out.  It may not spring out all the way--but that is *probably* not because the springs are broken.  Lots of folks mistakenly think they have broken latch-bolt springs when the real problem is a rusty/sticky handle mechanism.

 

It's because the main tailgate latch (where the handle is) has gotten rusty or corroded.   This handle mechanism (you'll need to remove the trim plate to see it) has a dime sized rivet in the center (yellow arrow, below), and the two sides have to pivot to let the latch rods actuate.   If this riveted area is rusty/corroded, the rods won't be able to move back and forth, and this normally causes the latches on one or both sides to stick inward (released position), and not extend all the way into the striker plate mounted to the bed, and gate doesn't latch.  The latch-bolt springs on each side of the tailgate simply aren't strong enough to overcome the sticky handle mechanism, and this is why you might think the springs are bad.

 

Solution:   Spray some PB Blaster or other good penetrating oil into the riveted area of the latch.  You can kneel down and use a flashlight to see this area.  Soak it good, and while you're at it use some heavier oil (I used 80w90 gear oil) on the latch-bolt pins on each side.

 

 

After I got the PB Blaster in there on that rivet... (yellow arrow)...

I found it necessary to repeatedly pull the latch, which pulls the rods inward (releasing the tailgate), then manually with a small hammer peck the rods outward  to let the latch pins on each side extend all the way out... this let the penetrating oil do its job, and finally my handle/latch mechanism freed up on both sides.  You can see the two white nylon attachment points for the rods on the bottom of the latch mechanism.   These may need to be tapped with a small hammer toward the corresponding side of the tailgate to allow the latch pins on each side to fully extend outward.  Then pull the handle again, retracting the rods, and release... if the latch pins on either side don't extend fully outward, repeat...  Working back and forth like this should get the tailgate latch working properly on each side, once the penetrating oil gets deep into the pivot point (yellow arrow in photo).

 

Remember, the small springs on the latch-bolt pins on each side of the tailgate are not all that strong.  If the handle mechanism is sticky, these springs may not have enough power to push the latch-bolt pins all the way outward.

 

I apologize if this is a bit hard to follow, but hopefully if you have a sticky tailgate latch on one or both sides, this may help you get it working again without having to buy replacement parts.

 

Dan

[Logan Lanfear]

Rust attacks these trucks, its just not fair how many things go wrong with a little corrosion.  I wish I could go back to '97 and buy my '98 right off the lot.  Id try and take much better care than the people I bought it from