Jump to content

Tail gate latch, possible fix

green 788

Recommended Posts

green 788 Enthusiast

green 788

Posted
Posted

This may help some of you with tail gate latch problems in trucks in the late 80's through late 90's  (and probably other years too).

 

The problem is the gate doesn't latch on both sides, or sometimes folks will use the gate with only one side latching until that side goes bad also.   I've seen a lot of trucks about the same year model as mine (1996) with ratchet straps holding up the tailgate.  :rolleyes:

 

The tailgate can also pop open while you're driving if this latch mechanism malfunctions...

 

First of all, check to be sure that the springs operating the latch on each side of the tailgate are not broken (they're probably not)... do this by taking a flat screwdriver and pressing in on each latch to be sure it springs back out.  It may not spring out all the way--but that is *probably* not because the springs are broken.  Lots of folks mistakenly think they have broken latch-bolt springs when the real problem is a rusty/sticky handle mechanism.

 

It's because the main tailgate latch (where the handle is) has gotten rusty or corroded.   This handle mechanism (you'll need to remove the trim plate to see it) has a dime sized rivet in the center (yellow arrow, below), and the two sides have to pivot to let the latch rods actuate.   If this riveted area is rusty/corroded, the rods won't be able to move back and forth, and this normally causes the latches on one or both sides to stick inward (released position), and not extend all the way into the striker plate mounted to the bed, and gate doesn't latch.  The latch-bolt springs on each side of the tailgate simply aren't strong enough to overcome the sticky handle mechanism, and this is why you might think the springs are bad.

 

Solution:   Spray some PB Blaster or other good penetrating oil into the riveted area of the latch.  You can kneel down and use a flashlight to see this area.  Soak it good, and while you're at it use some heavier oil (I used 80w90 gear oil) on the latch-bolt pins on each side.

 

 

After I got the PB Blaster in there on that rivet... (yellow arrow)...

tailgate.jpg.1d8ee7bf9e8a3ceb0dc6db2bf4b64f81.jpg

I found it necessary to repeatedly pull the latch, which pulls the rods inward (releasing the tailgate), then manually with a small hammer peck the rods outward  to let the latch pins on each side extend all the way out... this let the penetrating oil do its job, and finally my handle/latch mechanism freed up on both sides.  You can see the two white nylon attachment points for the rods on the bottom of the latch mechanism.   These may need to be tapped with a small hammer toward the corresponding side of the tailgate to allow the latch pins on each side to fully extend outward.  Then pull the handle again, retracting the rods, and release... if the latch pins on either side don't extend fully outward, repeat...  Working back and forth like this should get the tailgate latch working properly on each side, once the penetrating oil gets deep into the pivot point (yellow arrow in photo).

 

Remember, the small springs on the latch-bolt pins on each side of the tailgate are not all that strong.  If the handle mechanism is sticky, these springs may not have enough power to push the latch-bolt pins all the way outward.

 

I apologize if this is a bit hard to follow, but hopefully if you have a sticky tailgate latch on one or both sides, this may help you get it working again without having to buy replacement parts.

 

Dan

Logan Lanfear Enthusiast

Logan Lanfear

Posted
Posted

Rust attacks these trucks, its just not fair how many things go wrong with a little corrosion.  I wish I could go back to '97 and buy my '98 right off the lot.  Id try and take much better care than the people I bought it from

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • cherryred21duramax
      Tonneau cover that does not leak water

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.  I really appreciate the well wishes.  I'm an engineer in the telecom industry, I know hardly anything about marketing.  Over the years I did some videos for nonprofits and web sites for small businesses and the seed was planted.  Agree with over-buying, I started shooting on an iPhone before I got my first DSLR and tripod.   I'm looking at trucks with potentially 150,000+ miles to keep the cost of entry low while focusing on the client experience and equipment.  Good wireless mics for interviews, the right lenses & lighting to look professional.  But I don't want to be late or break down, the stress of emptying a trailer & securing a rental truck right before a gig would negate any savings from buying a junker.  So anything that leaks water, has extensive rust, or generally unreliable I'd like to avoid.   Does GM/Chevy overbuild these trucks for upfitting?  I talked to a local upfitter, they sometimes tie lights & other 12V into existing circuits, which I always thought was bad.  Which is why I enjoyed the AUX upfit switches on previous trucks (odd they mostly come with off-road or work truck packages).
    • silveradosid
      injector cleaner 2021 2.7 1500 silverado

      By silveradosid · Posted

      i guess it might be depending on the type of driving. my 2.7 has 120k miles, changed the plugs at 70k and it runs as good as new. i have not used any injector cleaner
    • Atlas
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By Atlas · Posted

      GM's are stainless and have a fairly robust powder coating, although, still not worth $850 in my opinion. They will hold up a lot better than their cheaper steel aftermarket counterparts.   What I like about the GM step bars is dealers will often equip their dealer stock with them. Lots of margin. Which means a lot of people end up buying them because they're already on the truck, even if they don't like them. So it's pretty easy to find brand new takeoffs with hardware on Marketplace and Craigslist for about $250.   That's what I did for my crew cab. I wanted ZR2 rock rails for the look, but with the ability to bolt up GM's assist step package. From GM it's about a $2500 accessory all in. The old folks in my life can't get in the truck without steps. I found the whole package on marketplace for $180.
    • kr477
      Forward collision and lane keep assist still a problem on 2022 refresh?

      By kr477 · Posted

      I am really glad I found this post and this site... We have a 2022 1500 refresh LTZ that has these problems: - forward collision avoidance warning light - lane keep assist unavailable - adaptive cruise control unavailable   The truck was bought as a new leftover in 2023, so it was still under the 3/36 B to B when it went in for these problems earlier this year. It has been at the dealer on and off now for about 110 days now. These are some of the things they have done that I can read on the service tickets. - replace/add ground straps (4) - check all battery cables and vlts - replace serial data gateway module - replace front view camera - numerous reprogramming - a few calibrations (apparently ending with 'learned') Last week when I had it back the truck had those 3 warnings every time we used it except for 3 times. On three separate occasions the truck started and ran perfectly with no (zero) warning messages or warning lights lit - everything worked perfectly. Over that same time period the truck did not work on every other 'key' cycle which I would estimate at 60+ cycles. On those estimated 57 cycles it had the same 3 problems each and every time.   It is back at the dealer now - can anyone help at all with what the true problem might be?  Or possibly what can be ruled out leaving a lower number of possibilities? Thank you very much for any help you may be able to supply....     
    • Z45
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By Z45 · Posted

      As for the step bars, friend did just that, bought some cheap ones and we are in Michigan and they turned to rust in less than a year.  In 3 yrs he had to replace one of them because they rusted out from the inside even though he kept after them cleaning and polishing etc. Had to drive 300 miles (to Chicago area) to find a reg cab wt, he ordered one and dealer never got it and with winter approaching (plow truck) he needed fo find one ASAP.  Furd dealer found him one but he choose to drive to get a GMC.    Just what you can expect with cheap stuff, LOW quality. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...