Jump to content

The "big four" survival guns are:

rotti

By rotti
in The Off-Topic Bar

Recommended Posts

kstruckcountry Senior Enthusiast

kstruckcountry

Posted
Posted

I prefer lever or bolt action .22's. I don't see much point to a 10/22, as it's significantly larger and no more accurate than a Marlin 39A for example. An old Marlin can be found pretty cheap, and the quality of the older ones is much better than the current guns.

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply
sputnik360 Enthusiast

sputnik360

Posted
Posted

I agree with most that you said. But a good quality AR with good mags is basically maintenance free. My AR runs better than my AK. My AR is consistently shot 2-4 thousand rounds between cleaning. It could go longer I bet. Not to mention it is the most commonly sold rifle in America now.

fm2176 Enthusiast

fm2176

Posted
Posted

I prefer lever or bolt action .22's. I don't see much point to a 10/22, as it's significantly larger and no more accurate than a Marlin 39A for example. An old Marlin can be found pretty cheap, and the quality of the older ones is much better than the current guns.

 

I have a Remington 514 that I'd feel comfortable bugging out with. Unfortunately, you're right about the quality of older guns being better than newer ones. Newer metallurgy and manufacturing techniques might make some firearms better than ever, but to me old fashioned steel and wood just feels right. maybe that's why all my "cool-guy" rifles are gone now, but the old bolt-actions ain't going anywhere. :D

 

I agree with most that you said. But a good quality AR with good mags is basically maintenance free. My AR runs better than my AK. My AR is consistently shot 2-4 thousand rounds between cleaning. It could go longer I bet. Not to mention it is the most commonly sold rifle in America now.

 

It's good to have faith in your weapon of choice. My old Bushmaster was a good rifle, but I feel better knowing that it takes a lot more to damage or permanently disable an old bolt-action. I guess the media and gun-grabbers inadvertently helped propell the AR to its current sales status. Funny how that works. :)

  • 2 weeks later...
FargoZ71 Enthusiast

FargoZ71

Posted
Posted

I could Agree to all the guns listed.

 

And I can understand the point of any S/A with detach box mag in center fire cal of choice could work, any .22LR could work, and any reliable shotty could work, and that the glock can be substituted for a variety of service proven s/a hand guns..

 

I think the main guns highlighted have there merrits though..

 

AR-15 - the 350 small block of the gun world..

 

10/22 - I have one, and reliable with the right ammo, such as CCI MiniMags, but with the bulk fed/blazer ammo I do have issues, so ammo is a factor in a Semi-Auto .22LR. A bolt action mag fed 22LR with a 4X scope would be my preferred rabbit/ small game rifle to a 10/22. IE.. Savage MK2.

 

870- Reliable.. hands down no questions, you cannot dispute it. However the Mossberg 590A1 is the only true milspec pump gun around, and should be mentioned.

 

Glock 19.. Um.. Glocks are glocks.. I prefer my S&W MP 40 to glocks for personal fit reasons, also I have a 9mm barrel and mags for it, so I can shoot either round fairly quick depending on whats available in SHTF.

 

Those out there knocking the AR for take down power.. well there are issues with it.. plain and simple .223/5.56mm is a small round, I dont care if its 77gr SMK's outta a proper twist barrel theirs still only so much knock down on it. But the Original Post didn't specify only a 5.56mm/.223cal AR. And this is where I believe the Armalite 15 excels over any other Semi- Automatic rifle in the world. Swap uppers.. 6.5mm Grendel = .260ish, 6.8mm SPC rem is approx .272cal. So, the pull of two pins and now you have a rifle thats capable of taking about any game in North America.. HUMANELY. I know a 5.56mm can kill anything with the correct shot placement.. I'm just saying a lil more knockdown power for a clean kill is very nice for the average shooter.

 

Current stable.. College funds limited.

Sears Roebuck single shot 22LR.

RRA 5.56mm AR-15- lots of improvements. Troy Alpha rail, QD Swivels, MS3 Sling, Leupold 3x9, nikon M223 mount, Some lightening of the front with blueing to match, bi-pod, Butt plate with sling attachment points.

M&P40 with 9mm barrel n mags

Mossberg 20ga Bolt action shotty.

Stoeger M3000 12Ga

Ruger 10/22 with 4X scope

Savage MK2 with 3x9 scope - .22LR

Savage 111 in .243 3x9 scope

Tikka T3 S/S Laminate .270WSM with 4.5x14 scope

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,913
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Smitty462
    Newest Member
    Smitty462
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 572 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...