Jump to content

Can't find a "steel" level kit


Recommended Posts

Posted

Man o Man I don't think I can trust the new poly or the new aluminum level kits. For some reason it's drilled into my head the steel is the best option. I have owned 2 "steel" kits in the past and they have held there own flawlessly. Can't beat em. I'm having trouble now locating one because they have all switched over to new lighter materials. Also the problem I'm facing is shipping to Canada eh ? Lol (I had too). If anyone can convince me other wise or shed any real life experiences here (pros/cons) of each kit. It would be great. Thanks

Posted

They big name ones have warranties whether they are poly or aluminum. I have steel, but I also have coil springs. I wouldnt be worried. A lot of people on here have had the Rough Country poly kit on their truck with no issues. Some since 07

Posted

They big name ones have warranties whether they are poly or aluminum. I have steel, but I also have coil springs. I wouldnt be worried. A lot of people on here have had the Rough Country poly kit on their truck with no issues. Some since 07

 

 

There have been a select few issues with the poly RC kit. Either crackin, or wearing in so the lift isn't a solid 2" anymore it might me 1 1/4" over time.

Posted

Check out top gun customz. I also believe the Truxxx kit is Steel. Mine is from them

Posted

There are dozens and dozens of folks here with the RC kit who have not had any issues. I'd be more worried about the metal ones because to compete price wise they will be made in China of garbage metal.

Posted

You could contact the company to see if they are using 7000 series aluminum, i.e. 7068, Damn near the strongest available, used commercially in aero and in aluminum motors or 7075, very strong but not as strong as aforementioned. But steel will always be superb since it can handle stress a whole lot better than aluminum.

Posted

There have been a select few issues with the poly RC kit. Either crackin, or wearing in so the lift isn't a solid 2" anymore it might me 1 1/4" over time.

 

 

I don't understand how they'd wear, unless they weren't properly tightened and the block moved or shifted which might cause wear. Also I would imagine Rough Country and Zone Offroad put their poly blocks through alot more abuse in testing than the average consumer would in normal use.

Posted

i had the RC on mine truck until i went another route. I had ZERO problems with mine.

Posted

Thanks everyone ... I am not "dead-set" on steel I just thought they were the best. One of the aluminum kits I found. And they offer lifetime warranty is :

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121058003965?redirect=mobile

 

"" Precision CNC machined from aircraft grade solid billet 6061-T6 aluminum. Stronger and more durable then polyurethane, nylon or UHMW plactic. ""

 

What are your thoughts ?

 

Posted

I had mine cut from 6061-T6 Aluminum and have had no problems with them. I wouldn't worry about it. The Tensile Yield Strength of 6061-T6 is 37,000psi. While the Tensile Yield Strength of A36 Structural Steel (the stuff I-beams, angles, C-Channels, etc are made of) is only 36,300psi (Lower than the 6061-T6). For all intents and purposes they have the same strength. The difference is the Modulus of Elasticity (10,000ksi for 6061-T6 & 29,000ksi for A36).

 

So...what does all that mean?

 

Both the 6061-T6 and the A36 Steel will fail under almost exactly the same amount of load.

 

But... the 6061-T6 will undergo more elastic(non-permanent) deformation prior to plastic(permanent) deformation.

 

In summary...The aluminum Leveling kit will work just fine.

Posted

I had mine cut from 6061-T6 Aluminum and have had no problems with them. I wouldn't worry about it. The Tensile Yield Strength of 6061-T6 is 37,000psi. While the Tensile Yield Strength of A36 Structural Steel (the stuff I-beams, angles, C-Channels, etc are made of) is only 36,300psi (Lower than the 6061-T6). For all intents and purposes they have the same strength. The difference is the Modulus of Elasticity (10,000ksi for 6061-T6 & 29,000ksi for A36).

 

So...what does all that mean?

 

Both the 6061-T6 and the A36 Steel will fail under almost exactly the same amount of load.

 

But... the 6061-T6 will undergo more elastic(non-permanent) deformation prior to plastic(permanent) deformation.

 

In summary...The aluminum Leveling kit will work just fine.

 

 

Wow thank you very much boss. I really appreciate the info. I will probably go with aluminum now. Looks nicer and won't rust. Thanks again :)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...