Jump to content

2011 Auto cal $0520 message


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All.

 

I am having issues with my attempt to tune my 11 silverado.

I can download the engine info E38 but I get $0520 message on the tranny part E43

It states no space ? This is the 1st info I am trying to pull not sure how it can be full?

Any info is appreciated I am not super techy.

 

Thanks,

Joe

Posted

Put the E38 file on the computer and delete it from the autocal. Thrn pull your other file

 

Sent from my Samsung GS4 using Xparent Red Tapatalk 2

 

Posted

Do you kno whow i can delete it? I did not see the instructions to delete?

Worst case I can always re do the stock data if the E38 was not sucessful that I sent to BB.

Thanks for the reply!! Joe

Posted

Open the efilive explorer with the autocal connected. Openclick the file up the autocal from there, click the file once, then hit delete on your keyboard.

Posted

No I am having no luck at all. I was not able to follow the above? I had a few emails back and forth with Justin but we keep missing all of the details. Can you please try and help me so I can get the files to Justin? Sorry about the death in the family.

Posted

I looked all over trying to find something to show how to remove a tune from the autocal with no luck.. efi live- google search popped up other forums nothing specific -Thansk in advance.. Joe

Posted

Will it make space on the auto cal to be able to load the T43 trans file and get rid of the $0520? I also do not want to lose my stock tune info. Sorry I am a bit cautious and do not want to mess it up.

Posted

Thanks for the reply-I worked late last night but I will do this later today -I will let you know if I was able to get it to work. Thanks!! Joe

Posted

Nope -did not work file full error E38 is removed from the laptop but not on my autocal????I tried E43 got the file file full #e0520 will not reload on autocal either I tried to reload e38 data got #E0520. The delete of file only appears to remove off the laptop not the autocal that was my original issue with doing that --I need space ong the autocal and I do not see that being cleared/ Not sure now what to do -poss Justins email will clear it up or even if my orig E38 engine data was valid and useable. I would re do the whole drive process but it wont evenhave space to log that. frustrated......

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...