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1997 Chevrolet Silverado 5.7 Vortec 5700 Upgrades?


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I just acquired a well maintained 1997 Silverado Extended cab Short bed 1500.

 

Currently has 192K miles and runs great, no smoke when cold, etc. It has always had 3000 mile oil changes. I just changed all fluids with Redline synthetics (Both differentials, transfer case, Transmission) It already has headers and dual exhaust. Also has K&N air filter. It still has original catalytic converters with 02 sensors before and after each converter (4 total sensors)

 

Is it worth spending $$ on a tuner or Mass Air Flow sensor?

 

Anyone know where to get good quality power mirrors? Current mirrors shake while driving at highway speeds! They are probably cheap china replacements.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-GMC-Pickup-Truck-Black-Folding-Power-Side-View-Mirror-Left-Right-Pair-Set-/310394761889?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4844f832a1&vxp=mtr

 

Is it worth running anything higher than 87 octane in this truck? Anyone notice a difference. I am at high elevation so my not sure if higher octane would be worth it anyway. Let me know what you guys run.

 

I also need the rear passenger 3rd door window latch. What is that called? I can't find it on ebay with my "rear window latch" search.

 

Thanks!

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  • 2 weeks later...

The motor is really fairly old and basic as far as the computer goes. It's the post '86 TBI 350. Good solid engine that will respond to the typical "old school" mods. Unless you're really willing to spend on new parts such as cam, exhaust intake, etc, I'd just leave it.

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The vortec injection system is junk IMO. Worse than TBI even lol. Ditch the stock dinky head pipes and cats.... Tuning is limited because of the controller. You can do the 0411 pcm swap to make it truly tunable if you want... or contact someone with the tunercat software to do the existing one. So no.... not Blackbear lol.

 

Octane.... try it and likely see zero difference. Your compression is low enough with an efficient chambered head to not need it. Leave your air intake and maf alone... they are more efficient than the intake manifold anyway.

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

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Let me answer a few questions of my own......

 

If you need a replacement antenna mast because you forgot to take it off when you went through the carwash.... Search ebay or google for these part numbers.

ANTENNA MAST 15087886 15042595 (old P/N only difference is does not include plastic wrench for install / removal)

I ended up ordering cheap mirror replacements from eBay for $60 a set shipped. They barely vibrate / shake at 70mph. I inquired at gmpartsdirect but drivers side was on a 3 week or more back-order. They also cost over $200 for a set.

 

Passenger rear extended cab window latch PN 15954262

 

I ordered 4 new Bosch 02 sensors (before Cats & after Cats) since i was getting a SES light about bank 1 sensor 2. All 4 sensors were just under $100 total shipped at RockAuto. This was less than half price of Autozone, Oreilly, etc.

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The vortec injection system is junk IMO. Worse than TBI even lol. Ditch the stock dinky head pipes and cats.... Tuning is limited because of the controller. You can do the 0411 pcm swap to make it truly tunable if you want... or contact someone with the tunercat software to do the existing one. So no.... not Blackbear lol.

 

Octane.... try it and likely see zero difference. Your compression is low enough with an efficient chambered head to not need it. Leave your air intake and maf alone... they are more efficient than the intake manifold anyway.

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

thanks for the reply, I will just leave it alone and probably only run 87 octane. I have shorty headers and dual exhaust that combine into one of the largest flowmaster mufflers i have seen, then split back into dual exhaust. I still have the original cats which I hope don't need replaced, truck runs well and doesn't hesitate off the line, etc. But then again it has 192k on stock cats.... If cats do clog up or cause problems I will probably look into deleting them if I can figure out how to trick the (4) 02 sensors?

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The motor is really fairly old and basic as far as the computer goes. It's the post '86 TBI 350. Good solid engine that will respond to the typical "old school" mods. Unless you're really willing to spend on new parts such as cam, exhaust intake, etc, I'd just leave it.

 

thanks for the reply, Sounds like I will just leave it alone and see how many more miles I can get out of a 192K highway mile 1997 truck that has original engine and trans. This truck has been in the family since new and is the reason I am now a Chevrolet / GMC fan. After 192K miles and only routine maintenance, this has been the best half ton truck out of the "other" brands that family members have owned.

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You can get the stock head pipes off a 3/4 ton or one ton too. They are 2.75" dual to the muffler unlike your 1.875" stockers. Its a good upgrade if you ever need.

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

I will keep an eye out for a 7.4L 454 in the junk yard if those parts have not been taken already. Thanks!

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  • 1 month later...

Update - I went ahead and threw down $$$ for a tune from Blackbear performance. I definately notice a difference in initial get-up-and-go. The 'ol vortec also revs out longer to 5500 RPM which sometimes makes me nervous with all the noise it makes with 200K on the clock. :ughdance: But hell it runs great and dosen't burn a drop of oil. :chevy:



I ended up purchasing the flowmaster direct fit catalytic converters
2010023. I wanted to replace the small non mandrel-bent stock exahust with at
least 2" piping.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-2010023/

 

I currently have these headers - Pacesetter Shorty Headers 70-1320.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/psm-70-1320/

 

Thepacesetter shorty headers have been on the truck for 12 years and are
developing cracks where the pipes join to the collector. I had an

exhaust shop weld up the areas they could get to for $40 and that cured
98% of the leaks.

 

I am experiencing a low rumble or
growl at certain RPM. Is this due to the shorty headers? I have long
tubes on my '79 K10 and it dosen't have the growl.

 

When more cracks develop and I finally give in to replace the shorty headers...

 

Do you all recommend long tubes for the 5.7?

Stick with shortys?

Or just go K2500 manifolds if I can find some?

 

Are patriot headers any good?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h8059/

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