Jump to content

Radio Swap???


scz71864

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok so i bought the ogm1 to go in my truck and gave my stock radio to my dad. i have a 11 silverado LT and i have the usb and aux port in my factory radio. well my dad has a 13 2500 and doesnt have either so i just gave him my radio. he took it to the dealer to get it reporgramed to work in his, and they say it wont work because you have to switch the vin? I was a 100% possitive these were plug and play and all you had to do was have the dealship flash the radio for it to work in another vehicle. any help would be great

Posted

It is. Some dealers dont like to do it or are bad to the point that they dont know how

Posted

I went through this, they can be made to work, finding a dealer that knows how is the problem

 

Sent from my HTC One S using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Ditto. It's no different than if the dealer had to do a replacement under warranty. You flash the radio to match the VIN off of the truck. My dealer does it all the time

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
I think your dealer knew nothing, just go to some renowned mechanic who can do this job in more effcient way.

LOL do you even know how they unlock the radio in the GMT 900? LOL! Its not like previous models.

 

Sent from my Motorola DynaTAC using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Ok so i bought the ogm1 to go in my truck and gave my stock radio to my dad. i have a 11 silverado LT and i have the usb and aux port in my factory radio. well my dad has a 13 2500 and doesnt have either so i just gave him my radio. he took it to the dealer to get it reporgramed to work in his, and they say it wont work because you have to switch the vin? I was a 100% possitive these were plug and play and all you had to do was have the dealship flash the radio for it to work in another vehicle. any help would be great

 

It's not a matter of programming the radio, since the radio has no ability to retain any data. You have to reprogram the body control module to recognize the new radio (essentially to transmit the new data code that the radio will recognize to turn on). It's really pretty simple – all they have to do is program the truck as though it came with the new radio from the factory.

Posted

thanks a lot guys. im headed home for break tom and my dad and i are going to take it to a different dealer. glad to know i wasnt crazy

Posted

Ok so i bought the ogm1 to go in my truck and gave my stock radio to my dad. i have a 11 silverado LT and i have the usb and aux port in my factory radio. well my dad has a 13 2500 and doesnt have either so i just gave him my radio. he took it to the dealer to get it reporgramed to work in his, and they say it wont work because you have to switch the vin? I was a 100% possitive these were plug and play and all you had to do was have the dealship flash the radio for it to work in another vehicle. any help would be great

Absolutely doable and easy. It may or may not need flashing depending on the build of the 2 trucks. Vin relearn can be done with Tech2 that does not have the latest software updates. If you like, pm me the vins of the 2 trucks and Ill tell you what options they have. Or, you can look up the RPO codes in the glove box. Look for UQA, UQF, UQ3 as long as neither is a Denali.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

LOL do you even know how they unlock the radio in the GMT 900? LOL! Its not like previous models. Sent from my Motorola DynaTAC using Tapatalk

 

Ya, agreed that I don't know how to unlock the radio but it was also cleared that his dealer was newbee who knew nothing.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...