Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

There is no one shim fits all, that's why pinion shims do not come with any kits on the market... tolerance stack ups in the frame will make each truck slightly different and some more pronounced than others. If I were you I'd buy some 2 degree shims and after you lower it see how it does. You may not need them. I ran into this on my 2013 crew cab most people with the exact same drop kit had no trouble and after much research is why I bought THAT kit, but mine was so far out of whack it was almost ridiculous. It also made me not want to lower this 2014 as much as I did my previous truck just to steer clear of issues on another brand new truck.

well then how do you measure for it?

 

do you just get a ground clearance measurements like you do for the fenders for before and after then shim to return it to the same rough measurements from front yoke of rear end to a flat spot near the rear of it?

Posted

Refer to timfactors post. You'll need a magnetic angle finder and it's measured after you lower the vehicle and get the ride height set (suspension has settled).

Posted (edited)

In regards to lowering a vehicle, if the leafs are on top of the axle, the thick part of the wedge/shim goes to the rear of truck. If the leafs are under the axle, the thick part of the wedge/shim goes to the front of truck. This will pitch the differential up toward the bed of truck back to the proper angle compensating for the downward pitch caused by installing drop shackles. Shackles change the geometry of the leaf springs and roll the differential downward towards the ground. The wedges set the angle back near factory settings restoring harmonic balance of the drive shaft. Hope this helps.

Edited by whodatfan
Posted (edited)

In regards to lowering a vehicle, if the leafs are on top of the axle, the thick part of the wedge/shim goes to the rear of truck. If the leafs are under the axle, the thick part of the wedge/shim goes to the front of truck. This will pitch the differential up toward the bed of truck back to the proper angle compensating for the downward pitch caused by installing drop shackles. Shackles change the geometry of the leaf springs and roll the differential downward towards the ground. The wedges set the angle back near factory settings restoring harmonic balance of the drive shaft. Hope this helps.

thanks because that picture showed the axle under the springs but the wedge was backwards for what happens when you are lowering

 

the thing is how do you go about to measure that angle? just a straight edge laid across the yoke and a set point distance out from the yoke?

 

this actual procedure and how to do it correctly and accurately is something I haven't seen anyone post or provide a link to how to do it

Edited by keakar
Posted

Hey guys I've been lurking around here trying to get as much info as I can, I should be ordering a RCSB 4WD (it snows here) this week and I plan on doing a 2/4 drop on it.

 

Anyway I thought this might be helpful for those of you with vibration issues

http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/Universal_Joint_Alignment_Proc_111606.pdf

 

Also does anyone know why you can't buy a flip kit for a 4WD? Is the rear axle different in some way?

Here's where I posted some instructions way back in this thread
Posted

well then how do you measure for it?

 

do you just get a ground clearance measurements like you do for the fenders for before and after then shim to return it to the same rough measurements from front yoke of rear end to a flat spot near the rear of it?

 

Posted (edited)

thanks guys, that looks complicated and math makes my head hurt lol

 

I guess I could bring it to cottman transmission and have them check it when im done

Edited by keakar
Posted

thanks guys, that looks complicated and math makes my head hurt lol

 

I guess I could bring it to cottman transmission and have them check it when im done

Really for what we're doing you just need to get the diff on the same angle as the trans. If you're using lowering shackles the diff is going to get turned downward toward the ground due to the rear of the springs going up. In order to correct this you need to install the shim with the fat part toward the rear. If you're using a flip kit with less than the full 7 inches of drop, the opposite is ture because they lower the rear of the spring to reduce the amount of drop so you would put the fat part of the shim to the front
Posted

Really for what we're doing you just need to get the diff on the same angle as the trans. If you're using lowering shackles the diff is going to get turned downward toward the ground due to the rear of the springs going up. In order to correct this you need to install the shim with the fat part toward the rear. If you're using a flip kit with less than the full 7 inches of drop, the opposite is ture because they lower the rear of the spring to reduce the amount of drop so you would put the fat part of the shim to the front

ya I got that part but I also see when the springs rotate upward the angle will change on bot sides, the tranny side and the axle side angles will be different so its more then one angle changing so I cant just restore the axle to the same as it was because it would at that point need to be set differently from the first angle it was at.

 

it doesn't look too hard but it does look hard enough that I could easily get it wrong and if I change it I want it to be right not just "good enough" if you know what I mean.

Posted

ya I got that part but I also see when the springs rotate upward the angle will change on bot sides, the tranny side and the axle side angles will be different so its more then one angle changing so I cant just restore the axle to the same as it was because it would at that point need to be set differently from the first angle it was at.

 

it doesn't look too hard but it does look hard enough that I could easily get it wrong and if I change it I want it to be right not just "good enough" if you know what I mean.

Yes the angle between the driveshaft and the Trans will change but that's OK because as long as there's at least .5 degree of angle between them to keep the u joint moving your ok. With the amount of drop your talking about I don't see you having a problem there. The only angles that are going to cause a vibration are the diff and trans themselves because if they aren't the same they won't cancel out the movement of the u joint
Posted

Yes the angle between the driveshaft and the Trans will change but that's OK because as long as there's at least .5 degree of angle between them to keep the u joint moving your ok. With the amount of drop your talking about I don't see you having a problem there. The only angles that are going to cause a vibration are the diff and trans themselves because if they aren't the same they won't cancel out the movement of the u joint

so your saying if I do the 2" drop shackle and remove the 1.25" spacer block over the axle then that's not much of a change so I don't need to recalibrate for a shim

Posted

No. That is not what he is saying. He said don't worry about the trans angle because you didn't alter it's geometry by installing shackles. It's the rear end that was rotated out of tolerance. If you get a vibration at speed, you need to shim the rear differential up to remove it. Don't worry about the front of the drive shaft and transmission. It's fine.

Posted

You need to measure the front to find out how far off the rear is though. Get the front angle, then the rear, and that will tell you what size shim you need.

Posted

You need to measure the front to find out how far off the rear is though. Get the front angle, then the rear, and that will tell you what size shim you need.

ok, but I already have the "built in" "chevy designed it that way" vibration so im wondering if I can fix that issue with shims before I go messing with lowering it.

Posted

ok, but I already have the "built in" "chevy designed it that way" vibration so im wondering if I can fix that issue with shims before I go messing with lowering it.

I also have that vibration and am hoping to fix it myself also

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...