Jump to content

12v Accessory Power Outlets

Chris

By Chris
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
Posted

Test truck is a Sierra SLT for a product im doing. I need a 12v constant hot. On my personal 04 Sierra I am tapping the 12v outlet.

 

So the question is, is there a 12v outlet in the upper storage of the jumpseat, and if so how do I remove it and the one on the dash?

DanielAcosta Enthusiast

DanielAcosta

Posted
Posted

Not sure if this is the answer you're looking for, but on my 14 most (if not all) of the 12V outlets up front are hot, while the one on the back of the center console for the rear seat passengers is switched.

Chris Senior Enthusiast

Chris

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Figured out how to pull the outlet yet? Also found any other sources of constant hot?

  • 2 months later...
kdj14 Enthusiast

kdj14

Posted
Posted

Has anyone converted their dash outlet from 12v battery to switched power? I tried to search for this topic with no luck. I'd like to have this outlet on switched 12v power so I don't have to unplug my radar detector every time I get out. I know there's options on other GM vehicles for this but I haven't found any info for this on the 14's. Thanks !

chuckl1218 Senior Enthusiast

chuckl1218

Posted
Posted

Page 9-29 and 9-30 of the Silverado Owner Manual says...

Accessory Power Outlets (APOs)

The vehicle may have APOs in

several locations. See Power

Outlets on page 5-6.

The APOs in the console or center

seat position are powered by RAP (Retained Accessory Power).

They will continue to work for up to

10 minutes after the key is turned

from ON/RUN to LOCK/OFF, or until

the driver door is opened.

The APOs on the center stack come

from the factory powered directly

from the vehicle battery, and supply

accessory power at all times,

regardless of ignition key position.

If electronic items are left plugged

into these APOs for long periods of

time with the vehicle off, the vehicle

battery could be drained. The

vehicle may not start if the battery is

allowed to drain for an extended

period of time.

The source of power for the APOs

on the center stack can be changed

from direct battery power to RAP by

moving the fuse at location 10, in

the left instrument panel fuse block,

to position 11. Once the fuse is

moved, the APOs will continues to

work for up to 10 minutes or until

the driver door is opened. See

Instrument Panel Fuse Block (Left)

on page 10-49 or Instrument Panel

Fuse Block (Right) on page 10-52.

If you are not comfortable

performing this change, see

your dealer.

I hope this helps

kdj14 Enthusiast

kdj14

Posted
Posted

Thanks man, I totally missed it in the owners manual but figured someone knew.

chuckl1218 Senior Enthusiast

chuckl1218

Posted
Posted

no problem. I remembered reading it somewhere - I keep a small rechargeable LED flashlight in the console and needed to make sure it was RAP so that it will not drain battery. I keep a PDF copy of the manuals on my laptop which I can easily search...cheers

cmpcpro Enthusiast

cmpcpro

Posted
Posted

What is the center stack? I have a console so does that mean the one inside the console is rap and the two near the dash by the switches is on all the time?

chuckl1218 Senior Enthusiast

chuckl1218

Posted
Posted

The fuse block referenced above is located in the left dash. Open the drivers door. It is located in the end of the dash with the door open. If you need more info, check Owners Manual page 10-49.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

iCryWheniGoPoop Enthusiast

iCryWheniGoPoop

Posted
Posted

How do you go about getting that cover off?

Good damn question

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 525 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...