Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
3 hours ago, zikronix said:

I just got another one from them a few days ago

Thanks for the info.  Was your coupon code for 4%  as well, or did you get a better one?

Posted
Thanks for the info.  Was your coupon code for 4%  as well, or did you get a better one?
I registered an account and put all the parts in the cart and then a day or so went by and I got a special offer for 10 percent

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Posted

I have a brand new Jump Seat off of a 2018 Silverado LT Z71 CrewCab for sale. I just finished doing the swap to a console, so don't need it anymore. I am open to all offers.

Posted

Question for those of you who have completed this. My Jump seat shakes side to side, evident with a drink or two in the cup holder; I believe this is due to the hinges. Did anyone else who went from the jumpseat to the center console notice this with their jumpseat? Wondering if the center console will stop my drinks from shaking. If so I'm going to pull the trigger immediately.

Posted
Question for those of you who have completed this. My Jump seat shakes side to side, evident with a drink or two in the cup holder; I believe this is due to the hinges. Did anyone else who went from the jumpseat to the center console notice this with their jumpseat? Wondering if the center console will stop my drinks from shaking. If so I'm going to pull the trigger immediately.

It's because the depth of the jumpseat holders. The console holders are at least twice as deep granted if you use a thin cup it's gonna wiggle regardless. The 07-14 had the same problem

 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted
It's because the depth of the jumpseat holders. The console holders are at least twice as deep granted if you use a thin cup it's gonna wiggle regardless. The 07-14 had the same problem 
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
 
Johnny01: I haven't had that problem with my jump seat, I haven't installed my full floor console yet.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Posted
Johnny01: I haven't had that problem with my jump seat, I haven't installed my full floor console yet.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

I re read his post. To clairify my seat never shook but cups would wiggle

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Quick question for those in the know. I'm thinking of trading up to an 18 with the center console, and was wondering if this is what I need to convert it to the adjustable cupholders/storage like the 14/15's had.  I'm likely going with the all black interior if that matters. https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-upper-trim-panel-22995087/?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9Y2VudGVyLWNvbnNvbGUmaT1HSDE0NTIyNSZyPTEmYT1jaGV2cm9sZXQmbz1zaWx2ZXJhZG8tMTUwMCZ5PTIwMTUmdD1sdHomZT02LTJsLXY4LWdhcw%3D%3D

Thanks.

Edit: I had the wrong part # originally. This shows the one for quilted maple? Isn't that what the standard LTZ comes with?

Edited by Prong
changed part numbers
Posted

when you look up 84199890  it doesn't show it having the back trim or arm rest.  most of the threads on here claim it comes with it.

on gmpartsnow it shows customers also buying these parts , this puts the cost over $1000    .

 

im just a little confused.  do I just trust it and run with it?

 

shows this one actually fitting my 2016 silverado extended cab  Console Assembly - GM (84017262)

Posted
Thanks for the info.  Was your coupon code for 4%  as well, or did you get a better one?

Did your console come compete with arm rest abs back trim ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
when you look up 84199890  it doesn't show it having the back trim or arm rest.  most of the threads on here claim it comes with it.
on gmpartsnow it shows customers also buying these parts , this puts the cost over $1000    .
 
im just a little confused.  do I just trust it and run with it?
 
shows this one actually fitting my 2016 silverado extended cab  Console Assembly - GM (84017262)
Johnny01: 84017262 is the correct part number, but does not include some of the trim and mounting hardware.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,972
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Whit.the.COB
    Newest Member
    Whit.the.COB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,227 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I've had exactly one set of Bridgestone. Lasted five year and 125,000 miles and had I known better 15oK would have been a cake walk. I would have bought a like set had they not tripled in price since the first set. I removed them at said mileage with 5/32" remaining in dead even wear all four. They were fuel efficient, quite, comfortable and predictable.    Early on I got a very good alignment checked at least once a year, sometimes twice; kept the tires properly inflated, balanced and rotated. And I've found that many a tire issue can be avoided with great maintenance practices. Lot's of tire dealers will do rotation and balance (simple) for free for as long as you own the tire they sold you so no excuse not to.    Bead prep, alloy integrity and stem health have a huge impact on inflation stability. There are more mountings done poorly that perfectly. Finding a good tire guy is gold and as important as finding a tire you like.    That 3X price increase now two sets of "other tires' later is starting look like a bargain.      Bad maintenance kills more tires than bad tires. 
    • Atlas, you kill me As aggravating as a project like this can be you have been unable to hide your fascination with learning and using that angst against this beast like a Ninjitsu Master. It amuses you, admit it now.      BTW, love your writing style. 😉       
    • I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...