Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My truck is new(79 Miles on it) got it yesterday, today 0 degrees, would not start. Got out the hammer and wrapped on the exhaust and it started. There is some kind of exhaust flap i read about here that has been causing issues! On my way back to the dealer now! Not Happy

Posted

My truck is new(79 Miles on it) got it yesterday, today 0 degrees, would not start. Got out the hammer and wrapped on the exhaust and it started. There is some kind of exhaust flap i read about here that has been causing issues! On my way back to the dealer now! Not Happy

 

Did it crank when it wouldn't start?

Posted

Partial update here. They had the problem starting it this morning, they said the voltage was normal. They are waiting to hear from GM on the next course of action. Mentioned they might try a new starter. That's all for now.

Posted

SSimpson, is it cold where you are at?

OP stated in his initial post that it was zero degrees, I would say yes, it's cold.

Posted (edited)

OP stated in his initial post that it was zero degrees, I would say yes, it's cold.

 

Read OP, nothing about temp there.

Edited by chelmer
Posted

Uh...really "My truck is new(79 Miles on it) got it yesterday, today 0 degrees"

Posted

I think I identified what caused my truck to fail starting. I bought a Range V8 and installed it last week. I drove the truck once, and then it stayed parked for 5 days. Then the truck wouldn't start. I remembered the Range V8 and went to their web site to contact them and ask if the unit could cause a battery drain. I found this information on the site:

 

The Range Device does draw on the vehicle battery during normal operation. If you drive your vehicle daily (or almost daily), then this will not be a concern. However, if you drive your vehicle infrequently (i.e., only on weekends), please remove the device. It is best practice to remove the device if your vehicle will sit for anything longer than 3-4 days.

 

So I can testify that this is absolutely correct. :rollin:

Posted

We'll GMs answer for mine is to put a new starter in it. They are overnighting one from Canada and will let everyone know if it solves anything.

Posted

I test drove a 2014 Silverado, took it home overnight, went out the next morning, it would not start, it just clicked would not turn over. Temp was 0F, went out five minutes later, turned the key, turned over a few times then started. My buddy is the sales manager at this dealer and he told me if they keep the trucks in transport mode, they all start no matter what the temp, but if they take them out of transport mode, half of his Silverado's will not start. From my understanding, transport mode turns off all unnecessary electronics on the truck. He also said that his dealer rep from Chevy says most of his dealers are complaining about the same thing. I am getting my new one next week, I hope it warms up and Chevy can come up with a fix for this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • More is cylinder deactivation. Kia-Hyundai Ive had 4. The warranty is the same 10 years 100K miles. My grandson drives the first one 05 Elantra GT. My wife drives the second one 2011 Genesis. The Genesis still performs as new and looks great. The Elantra looks rough. He’s not kind to it. The third was a Genesis coup. The fourth was a Santa Fe. Those were my daily drivers. I don’t keep them long. Kia is the same as Hyundai with the same warranty. I looked at the K-4 today. Too small, otherwise pretty good buy. Most of Hyundai and Kia’s have a performance upgrade. 
    • Thanks for the point of reference 
    • Great question. Answer....depends. One the volume of the crankcase, the driver that will actually be using the vehicle and the amount it uses plus the distance expected for that next trip. Couple of for instances:   Wife is going to drive Dizzy to Moline and back plus a bit around town so say 500 miles on the day. I know from years with that SUV that around town and local rural it uses about a quart in 1250 miles. But on the Interstate and her at the wheel without her anchor nagging her she'll push it and it will drop a quart in about 800 miles. Hence, around town I wait to somewhere between a quarter down to a quart down. On her trip I'd top it if it was down a few ounces and hope for the best.    Have I overfilled one? You mean by adding before it needs a full quart I assume. No, not once after finding the true fill mark.  I know the dipsticks of everything I drive and add what it needs. I learn this by doing the first oil change a quart low. Run the motor for a few minutes. Let it sit over night. Check and mark. Then add half a cup at a time making note of the place on the stick. I add through the dipstick tube with a barbeque basting bottle. Give it a few minutes to drain down and check again.    A vehicle like Dizzy that uses this much oil will take a few quarts between 3K changes. I keep one in the vehicle with the bottle and a bag. (Mindful of it's fullness) Not a big deal and never makes a mess of it. There is no such thing as "multiple quarts' in my shop for any specific oil. There will be a maximum however of the number of different oils used over the fleet.     Dizzy holds a nominal 5 quarts. So the first fill was indeed over as it actually took 4.75. My vehicles are fit with Valvomax valves so I can meter an ounce on the drain if need be. Found her mark first crack at it. Never to be repeated.    Pepper uses none between changes so I don't keep a quart in that one. Straight up 6 quarts put her dead on the full line. Check it ever fuel stop. They will surprise you when they start using.    Raven holds 3 liters or 5.44 ounces over three quarts. I add 3 quarts and 6 ounces. That gives me 5 oil changes on my orphan quart.    Lawnmower holds about 3/5 of a quart. I don't over fill it to prevent an orphan. So yea, depends. 
    • 185k on original 6.2L engine and 10 speed. 6" lift with 35" tires. Changed oil (Mobil 1 synthetic) when truck told me to. Original tranny with original fluid and no service or flush done. All highway miles. A/C compressor replaced at 155k. Oil cooler line replaced at 180k. Still daily driver. Love this truck.   This is my 3rd 6.2L vehicle (2008 Yukon Denali / 2018 Cadillac Escalade) with over 150k miles and no issues. Denali had broken motor mount at 100k.
    • 185k on original 6.2L engine and 10 speed. 6" lift with 35" tires. Changed oil (Mobil 1 synthetic) when truck told me to. Original tranny with original fluid and no service or flush done. All highway miles. A/C compressor replaced at 155k. Oil cooler line replaced at 180k. Still daily driver. Love this truck.   This is my 3rd 6.2L vehicle (2008 Yukon Denali / 2018 Cadillac Escalade) with over 150k miles and no issues. Denali had broken motor mount at 100k.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...