Jump to content

Disable door / belt chime?


Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
Posted

this has probably been covered but...if you want to turn that annoying ding off so you can listen to tunes with your door open and keys in just click the latch on the door twice and it stops..obviously you need to release it so just grab the handle and stick the end of the key to pull it back out..really easy just dont forget to release...

Posted

I think is a good thing specially when not wearing seat belts. When I have a passenger (my brother) doesn't like to wear seat belts and this super loud noise makes him haha. Better safe then sorry.

 

Wicked Galaxy Note 3

 

 

Posted

Anyone know how to turn off the seat belt charm? I did this on my old Dodge. Very helpful when I'm working on some local dirt not public roads, getting in and out a lot at low speeds.

Posted

Someone makes a seatbelt latch that goes in the female end to use for this exact purpose, I've only seen it once while parts surfing and I apologize for not knowing any more info, name, seller, etc. I suppose if you could get your hands on one from a wrecked truck or see if the factory one is available through dealer would do the same trick. The aftermarket "trickster" I believe is a bit lower profile, if I find it I will post it up.

Posted

Someone makes a seatbelt latch that goes in the female end to use for this exact purpose, I've only seen it once while parts surfing and I apologize for not knowing any more info, name, seller, etc. I suppose if you could get your hands on one from a wrecked truck or see if the factory one is available through dealer would do the same trick. The aftermarket "trickster" I believe is a bit lower profile, if I find it I will post it up.

 

Looking for more to disable the alarm not bypass it. On my dodge there was a key, brake and door combination that would turn off the chime.

Posted

Anyone know how to turn off the seat belt charm? I did this on my old Dodge. Very helpful when I'm working on some local dirt not public roads, getting in and out a lot at low speeds.

No real way to turn it off unfortunately. It plays through the stereo speakers now. I asked my dealer about it on my 2009 and they could not do anything since it's a safety feature. They also would not turn off the damn clicks for the turn signal either. Oh well.

Posted

As previously posted about the seatbelt clip to bypass the chime when the belt is not latched, I found the company…. Craven Speed. i have purchased one of their “Stubby” antenna’s from them and couldn’t be happier all around. Transaction was smooth as silk, they shipped the item the same day and I had it 2 days later. It works great and achieves the exact look i was hoping for……. Highly recommend them.

 

As far the sseatbelt bypass … here is the link to the page on their site if you are interested…….. http://www.cravenspeed.com/chimex/

Posted

Kinda handy for hunting too. Could always just plug the seatbelt in behind your back.

Or use the center seat belt. If you don't have a console that is.

Posted

On my '10 there was a plug between the driver seat and jump seat to disable the chime (seatbelt). small one by the seat track towards the front of the seat pointing up... I've not looked at my '14 yet...

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...