Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So all I have to do is in the headlight swap pin B and E on the left and B and E for the right?

 

also below is for 2015 sierra SLE 4wd

DOC1.pngDOC2.png

Yes, swap the pins inside the connector on the truck side. You don't need to touch the other side of the connector attached to the headlight.
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

What I'd like to have is the fogs act as my DRLs. But not have the parking lights come on as well. Could using relays work to turn on just the fogs? Everything else work as normal.

Edited by Velocibiker
  • 5 months later...
Posted

Correct... its very simple, just need some very fine point tools to get the pins out of the connector. Start by removing the 2 grey peices. there is one on the front and back of connector.

Sorry to dig up this old topic again but I'm trying to disable my DRLs & decided to do the pin swap method. I found the connector behind the headlight on the driver side & swapped the B & E pins but now I have another issue. When the headlight switch is in the "auto" position, the driver side headlight stays on as the DRL but the passenger side it's the parking light (amber). If I turn the headlight switch to the "on" position, then all the lights work normally. Am I doing something wrong or is there something else that I need to do? Or even worse, did I mess up something on my pins/connector? ANY help or guidance is GREATLY appreciated!!

Posted

Sorry to dig up this old topic again but I'm trying to disable my DRLs & decided to do the pin swap method. I found the connector behind the headlight on the driver side & swapped the B & E pins but now I have another issue. When the headlight switch is in the "auto" position, the driver side headlight stays on as the DRL but the passenger side it's the parking light (amber). If I turn the headlight switch to the "on" position, then all the lights work normally. Am I doing something wrong or is there something else that I need to do? Or even worse, did I mess up something on my pins/connector? ANY help or guidance is GREATLY appreciated!!

Start over.

Which year and model is your truck?

Did you swap the correct wires on the "truck side" of the headlight connector?

Did you do the same thing on both driver and pssenger side?

Sounds like you may have messed up the driver side since the low beam is staying on in daylight in the auto position.

Check your work, sometimes its better to put everything back to stock and start over.

Posted

Start over.

Which year and model is your truck?

Did you swap the correct wires on the "truck side" of the headlight connector?

Did you do the same thing on both driver and pssenger side?

Sounds like you may have messed up the driver side since the low beam is staying on in daylight in the auto position.

Check your work, sometimes its better to put everything back to stock and start over.

I have a 2015 Silverado LTZ.

 

Yes, I did swap the correct wires on the "truck" side of the drivers side (or at least I thought I did) but now that I'm having issues, I was thinking that I need to go back & switch everything back to original & start again.

 

I did not do the passenger side yet, only the driver side. I was trying to make sure I at least got one side correct before doing both.

 

I'll switch the driver side back to original, start with the passenger side next time & then go from there.

 

I'm also wondering if there is a wire that's loose in the connector on the driver side also because now when I put the truck in drive from park with the headlight switch in the "on" position, the passenger headlight cuts out completely.

 

Starting to think I created a gremlin. Hopefully putting everything back to original & starting over will fix the issues.

Posted

Anyone know what size/gauge wire to use to re-wire the factory harness??

 

My harness on the "truck"/female side seems to have some loose terminals & I plan on re-wiring it with new female connectors & a new harness housing to ensure that I don't have any issues moving forward.

 

Just want to make sure I use the right size wire for those terminals.

 

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Start over.

Which year and model is your truck?

Did you swap the correct wires on the "truck side" of the headlight connector?

Did you do the same thing on both driver and pssenger side?

Sounds like you may have messed up the driver side since the low beam is staying on in daylight in the auto position.

Check your work, sometimes its better to put everything back to stock and start over.

Sorry to bother you Matt, but you seem to be the only one still responding to this thread....

 

So I finally got the parking lights to be my DRLs with the wire swap you posted about but I had a couple of

quick questions:

1. Is there a way to have the fog lights on with the DRLs (now parking lights)?? Anytime I push the button for the fogs, my headlights turn on. Or is that just a sacrifice from the wire/pin swap?

 

2. ANY time I use my remote start function, the headlights automatically turn on. Is that a normal operation & is there a way to prevent that? I ask because I have HIDs installed & don't want to compromise the life of the bulbs from the constant on/off. Or is the only way to prevent that to do the trick of removing the spring from the auto control light switch & leaving it in the off position?

 

Thanks to any and all who can help with this...

Posted

Sorry to bother you Matt, but you seem to be the only one still responding to this thread....

 

So I finally got the parking lights to be my DRLs with the wire swap you posted about but I had a couple of

quick questions:

1. Is there a way to have the fog lights on with the DRLs (now parking lights)?? Anytime I push the button for the fogs, my headlights turn on. Or is that just a sacrifice from the wire/pin swap?

 

2. ANY time I use my remote start function, the headlights automatically turn on. Is that a normal operation & is there a way to prevent that? I ask because I have HIDs installed & don't want to compromise the life of the bulbs from the constant on/off. Or is the only way to prevent that to do the trick of removing the spring from the auto control light switch & leaving it in the off position?

 

Thanks to any and all who can help with this...

1. The fog lights trigger the amber lights. You are now using the amber light wire to power headlights. Unfortunately, you can not use fogs without low beams unless you buy a special harness online, not sure where. You will have to undo the pin swap mod.

2. This is a sacrifice you make for the pin swap, low beams come on when started remotely. I tapped into the trigger wire in the HID kit and put a toggle switch on my dash. As long as I leave the switch off. headlights stay off when i remote start. If it's dark flip the switch before you drive.

Posted

Sorry to bother you Matt, but you seem to be the only one still responding to this thread....

 

So I finally got the parking lights to be my DRLs with the wire swap you posted about but I had a couple of

quick questions:

1. Is there a way to have the fog lights on with the DRLs (now parking lights)?? Anytime I push the button for the fogs, my headlights turn on. Or is that just a sacrifice from the wire/pin swap?

 

2. ANY time I use my remote start function, the headlights automatically turn on. Is that a normal operation & is there a way to prevent that? I ask because I have HIDs installed & don't want to compromise the life of the bulbs from the constant on/off. Or is the only way to prevent that to do the trick of removing the spring from the auto control light switch & leaving it in the off position?

 

Thanks to any and all who can help with this...

Just want to add to my last post...

This may be obvious, but adding a toggle switch to the thin blue wire in the HID kit (the wire that conects to the trucks low beam bulb commector) will allow you to use your fogs without your low beams. Its easy and takes about 10 mins to run a wire through the firewall into your cabin.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
Posted
On 3/4/2016 at 8:37 AM, Matt DiMarco said:

You must have a Canadian truck. On US trucks the lights can be turned off while in drive. Im in Canada as well, I swapped the low beam wire with the parking lamp wire so the orange lights are on in daylight and the low beams still turn on automatically when it gets dark.

I have a 2014 GMC Sierra WT that is Canadian.  Will this mod work for my truck or just the silverados?  Sorry I’m new here 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,972
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Whit.the.COB
    Newest Member
    Whit.the.COB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 526 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Even tougher is the 5.0 / 302. That's what this one has.    https://postimg.cc/Z9XRrCSg   https://postimg.cc/4n3F3yzY   Just realized I had the airbox removed in the engine pic, lol.
    • Yep! This should be a pin somewhere as @pgamboa really dives into all of this. Thanks for reposting the link!
    • I did the new thermostat after doing a 'flip' for a year. Runs as cool one way as the other in the summer but in the winter there is a bit of a floor. Yellow with the new 70 C thermostat. My data over the life of the unit to date. Still need more cooler. Anyway that floor helped both winter fuel economy and shift quality in the winter. I found it a good balance.       
    • Evan Williams Bottled in Bond   So pouring the last of a bottle of Evan Williams Black label last night I set off the the state store for a refill only to be denied the by an empty shelf. Rats.    What the did have was a bottle of Evan Williams Bottled in Bond. 100 proof. Hum, a few bucks more but a known distiller. Lets have a swing at it. ( I have before )    Cracked it open and pour a serving over ice. Hum.... more heat, yes. More alcohol naturally. But the barreling not the proof brings the taste and this one came up short.    Oh is was familiar but the heat ran the barrel over like a Peterbilt runs over a squirrel. Could use a heavier toasting of the oak me thinks or perhaps a longer barreling. Who knows. But what I can say is ice or a water back isn't the answer. What kills one kills them both. Sad. It is a pleasant drink....if you have little to compare it to.  
    • I've had exactly one set of Bridgestone. Lasted five year and 125,000 miles and had I known better 15oK would have been a cake walk. I would have bought a like set had they not tripled in price since the first set. I removed them at said mileage with 5/32" remaining in dead even wear all four. They were fuel efficient, quite, comfortable and predictable.    Early on I got a very good alignment checked at least once a year, sometimes twice; kept the tires properly inflated, balanced and rotated. And I've found that many a tire issue can be avoided with great maintenance practices. Lot's of tire dealers will do rotation and balance (simple) for free for as long as you own the tire they sold you so no excuse not to.    Bead prep, alloy integrity and stem health have a huge impact on inflation stability. There are more mountings done poorly that perfectly. Finding a good tire guy is gold and as important as finding a tire you like.    That 3X price increase now two sets of "other tires' later is starting look like a bargain.      Bad maintenance kills more tires than bad tires. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...