Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
14 hours ago, Chris2014LTZ said:

This issue is for the 14’s and 15’s that were built in/for Canada. They don’t have the nice LED strips for DRL’s. It’s the low beam bulbs instead. And with Canadian trucks, you can’t turn them off unless you’re in park, no matter what! It sucks!!

Did you pick up a Canadian built (market) truck in Oregon?

Posted
1 hour ago, JimCost2014 said:

Did you pick up a Canadian built (market) truck in Oregon?

Unfortunately, yes. It has turned into a rust bucket underneath in the last two years.

Posted
On 1/5/2021 at 3:53 PM, Chris2014LTZ said:

Unfortunately, yes. It has turned into a rust bucket underneath in the last two years.

I feel your pain. Living in New England and dealing with that liquid brine crap the snow removal experts lay down on the roads in winter eats through these ladder frames like nothing. I've tried the annual oil undercoating (NH Oil Undercoating), but that stuff takes some time to "dry up" and I was unable to wash the undercarriage (pressure washing would remove it easily). This past fall, I went to a product called Wax-Oyl (sp?)...it's not cheap, but it hardens up better/quicker than the oil undercoating and now I can go through a car wash without risk/fear. According to the provider, it would require minimal touch-up every couple/three years...and my mechanic likes the Wax-Oyl much better too!  :0)

 

As for the Canadian DRL crap, I too am looking for the a solution. I've been all over the Internet trying to figure out...still unable to find one that suits me best. I have the SV4 LEDs in my projectors and love them, but I'd love them a ton more if they weren't on 24/7. I use remote start and park outside, so lighting up the night sky in my neighborhood when getting ready for work seems like an un-neighborly thing to do. I've talked to the folks at WAMS and they think it's a matter of reprogramming, but aren't 100% sure...doesn't seem like a good investment to buy the ODBII tool and pay for programming to "try it". After getting the AA upgrade, new rims/tires and a tonneau cover, the lighting crap is the last thing get this thing to perfect.

 

I hope I can find a solution to this...I still have another 3.9 years to go (my typical vehicle turnover rate)...prolly won't buy another CA transplant for this reason. But then again, in 4 years, the US may be more like CA with their DRL ridiculousness.

Posted

The wams spec bcm allows you to configure your DRL however you’d like including to us spec.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Remove the spring from the headlight nob so that it actually stays in the power off position rather then snapping back into the auto position. This way you will not have to turn the DRL off everytime they will just be "locked" into the off position. Takes about 10 minutes....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,179 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...