Jump to content

Saleen347's 2014 Sierra AT CREW


saleen347

Recommended Posts

Posted

Bought the truck in July. Wanted to drive it the rest of the summer and winter to give me time to find out how I wanted to build the truck. As of now I have 11,000 miles on the truck and love every mile I have drove. I'm an avid snowmobiler and travel lots of miles in the winter. This truck towed my 27' enclosed trailer flawlessly. It's now time to do some mods.

 

IMG_0267_zpsf10c0e13.jpg

IMG_0266_zps3dda3c74.jpg

 

First thing I did was install a Volant CAI. I was not impressed with the milage I was getting (around 15 mpg) and I wanted more. After 400 miles with this installed I'm now between 19.5 and 21mpg. Now maybe this is because you can really hear the motor better and I changed the way I drive it or it does let the motor breathe that much better? Either way I'm happy with the results and it will pay for itself in no time.

 

20140322_180404_zpscd49e410.jpg

 

After installing the CAI I wanted to help the motor breath out as much as it was breathing in. And I wanted a nice exhaust tone. After much research I decided to go with Magnaflow kit # 15269. Cat back, full stainless steel system. Install was a breeze and it sounds fantastic. Inside the cab you can hardly notice it while cruising but get on the gas and the truck sounds awesome!!!!!

 

20140322_154415_zpsaaf99849.jpg

20140322_180153_zpsf2edd136.jpg

 

I love the factory AT wheels, but wanted something different. This one took me forever to decide on but I finally decided on a set of Fuel Boost wheels with a +1 offset wrapped with Nitto Terra Grapplers 295/60/20. Should just stick out of the wheel well about 2". I'll get pics up when they arrive.

 

FuelWheels_zps022eb845.jpg

Nitto_zps90e27615.jpg

 

To fit the wheels I've ordered the Rough Country 4.75" lift. Again, I should have them installed next weekend and I'll get more pics up then.

 

After I get the wheels installed I may get some color matched Bushwacker pocket fender flairs. I've also ordered color matched mirror covers and door handles. I want to get rid of all the chrome. Unfortunately I had to take the truck with the chrome bumpers and chrome side steps as the deal I get on GM vehicles makes me pick off the lot. I'm hoping to either get them painted or swap with another truck.

  • Replies 35
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

After driving my truck all weekend with the new exhaust I've learned that with the Volant CAI and Magnaflow it rarely goes into V4 which I'm fine with. But when it does the drone can get loud. Nothing obnoxious but it's noticeably different from stock.

Posted

Also installed a Extang Revolution bed cover. Love the looks of it, no velcro, no snaps just roll and go. Pretty impressive self tensioning system that automatically adjusts the tension of the cover when you close it. Have had some pretty substantial rain and snow in Buffalo this winter and the bed has stayed dry. I also installed Weather Tech floor mats. Have had these in all my vehicles and I'm not impressed with these ones. When the snow melts on the drivers side, the water does not stay in the floor mat. It runs off into the door jamb causing my trim and carpet to get salt stains on them. Will be searching for replacements.

Posted

I saw a considerable milage increase and throttle response with the CAI and stock exhaust. Now with the Magnaflow milage went back down (maybe because my foot is in throttle more to hear the sweet sound of the magna flow). My butt dyno definitely feels more ponies.

Posted

1.25" RC body lift installed, air dam removed and side steps off. Truck is super dirty, weather here in WNY blows. Waiting on delivery of my NFAB wheel to wheel bars with bed steps to arrive. Hope to get the 3.5" lift kit on by next weekend along with a Bully Dog tuner.

 

20140329_134831_zps3cc3cdde.jpg

Posted

Just a note to anyone doing the RC body kit……. the 4-5 hour install time might be if you have a lift and full shop. For the DIY guy plan on around 6-7. I'm a pretty competent wrench and it took me 6.5 hrs with jacks and jackstands. Also there is a ground wire attached to the firewall above driver valve cover that must be removed and is not included in directions. Learned that the hard way, luckily it was strong enough to support the weight!!!!!!

Posted

Installed Craven Speed "The Stubby" antenna today. Really looks great and seems to work just as good as stock.

 

20140331_141450_zps0d8949e5.jpg

20140331_160649_zps1f4bb7e1.jpg

20140331_160655_zpsd141a209.jpg

 

Also installed Cree LEDS in the fog lights, back up lights and cargo lights. I'll report how they work when it's dark. Got them off ebay pretty cheap. They have aluminum housings and seem pretty well built.

 

20140331_141311_zpsf53ba477.jpg

20140331_155951_zps8fea5b7d.jpg

20140331_141401_zps7b692cd2.jpg

Posted

The small ones are 360 lumens for the back up lights and the fogs are 1200 lumens. The fogs are 6k. If I decide to keep the bulbs I'll definitely have to do HIDS in the headlights to match.

Posted

Don't waste your money on those fog lights. Not bright enough and they project all around instead of focused on the road. Back to the drawing board for those. The backup lights and cargo lights are a little brighter and fill the bed with crisp light.

Posted

You think the bed lights are better with aftermarket LED's? I've heard there isn't much improvement considering they comes stock with LED's

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

 

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...