Jump to content

Hard starting 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3


MajTomRet

Recommended Posts

Posted

I added a K&N 63-3070 Performance Air Intake and a Throttle Body Spacer to my truck and now it starts REAL hard but up till now always starts... This happens ONLY on cold engine starts after the truck is warmed up it starts just fine...? The performance is great response and power are what I was looking for and it has it...
Any Ideas as to why it is a cold hard starter now?

Posted

Sometimes throttle body spacers will do this. I would go ahead and get a custom tune done. Your A/F mixture has adjusted now. The computer may not realized the difference yet. Getting a tune done will take care of this.

Posted

I am surprised people still fall for the throttle body spacer idea. If extending the air intake half an inch made even half a mile per gallon difference in mileage the manufacturers would be all over it to help them meet CAFE numbers. As for power increase, again, GM adding a half inch more plastic in the manifold to get the claimed hp increase would also be a no brainer for them.

Most spacers have CARB exemptions. That means that the spacers do not alter the emissions enough to make a difference. If there is no difference in emissions, there cannot be a change to either mileage or power.

 

I would really like to find a deaf truck owner that knows his vehicle well enough to know if there was an actual power increase after adding either a CAI or throttle body spacer. The change in sound alone from the CAI tricks most people into feeling more power.

Posted

I am surprised people still fall for the throttle body spacer idea. If extending the air intake half an inch made even half a mile per gallon difference in mileage the manufacturers would be all over it to help them meet CAFE numbers. As for power increase, again, GM adding a half inch more plastic in the manifold to get the claimed hp increase would also be a no brainer for them.

Most spacers have CARB exemptions. That means that the spacers do not alter the emissions enough to make a difference. If there is no difference in emissions, there cannot be a change to either mileage or power.

 

I would really like to find a deaf truck owner that knows his vehicle well enough to know if there was an actual power increase after adding either a CAI or throttle body spacer. The change in sound alone from the CAI tricks most people into feeling more power.

 

Well said, throttle body spacers do nothing as the same as aftermarket CAI. Your truck already has a CAI from the factory and all the aftermarket ones do is give you more noise and making you think you have more power by the sound.

Posted

 

Well said, throttle body spacers do nothing as the same as aftermarket CAI. Your truck already has a CAI from the factory and all the aftermarket ones do is give you more noise and making you think you have more power by the sound.

awesome !!!! lmao !!!

Posted

Well said, throttle body spacers do nothing as the same as aftermarket CAI. Your truck already has a CAI from the factory and all the aftermarket ones do is give you more noise and making you think you have more power by the sound.

 

awesome !!!! lmao

 

BlackBear did prove that a CAI can be benifitial, and this was before they were tuned for optimal performance.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/98172-how-to-shop-for-an-intake/

Posted

 

BlackBear did prove that a CAI can be benifitial, and this was before they were tuned for optimal performance.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/98172-how-to-shop-for-an-intake/

 

Don't think they said CAI was beneficial. The final paragraph says:

 

"This all being said, intakes (as well as exhausts) are a matter of personal preference, just taking off the stock tube takes off a lot of restriction. Realistically, the differences between intakes (ie. open vs. open and closed vs. closed) will be minimal. One thing I do encourage anyone who purchases an aftermarket unit to do, is check the fitment every couple hundred miles, these things find a way to wiggle loose and can cause a drop in performance as well as MPG"

 

The stock air tube is designed to control intake resonance, not air flow. That being said, by screwing with resonance you can actually create a restriction by having the resonance cancel itself out. Take a look at any modern motorcycle airbox to see the science in using resonance to make optimal airflow. Simply cutting a hole in a motorcycle airbox can kill the torque, thus killing horsepower as well.

 

Chrysler found a way to use intake resonance to actually create a boost condition in the intake runners back in the late 50.s, early 60's. It was called either "long ram" or "cross ram" at the time. It is not the traditional cross ram though.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • PCM?  These don't have a "PCM".  Powertrain Control Module.  They have an ECM (Engine Control Module) and TCM (Transmission Control Module).   Do you mean update the radio?     You can check what version you have in the settings page.  Should be Y181 but there might be a newer build they can update it to.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...