Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Get a stud gun don't get the old time dent puller that you have to drill a hole. Then stud gun welds a stud to the metal after you remove the paint from the area and the kit should come with a snatch bar and studs, a cheap one should run you from $150 to $300.

 

 

Yep that's the one I'll be getting. Dad keeps geting on me about buying it lol!

 

 

 

 

Finally catching up on your build... Very nice. Well thought out and will out last almost anything else out there. Looks a lot cleaner without the bug shield too. :cheers:

 

 

 

Thanks. I used to like the bug shields, but anymore I like trucks better without them.

Posted

Thanks. I used to like the bug shields, but anymore I like trucks better without them.

 

I do/did as well. Can't make up my mind for my truck.

Posted

 

I do/did as well. Can't make up my mind for my truck.

 

 

They're great for protection, not so much for looks.

Posted

Steering wheel looks good, certainly not a cheap fix as oem ones were anywhere from 200-400 online when I was looking. Looks like your seats are next to need some attention, looks like the previous owner smoked the hell out of that truck and didn't bother with an ash tray.

Posted (edited)

The seats do have a few small holes in them. The interior doesn't smell like smoke though which is odd. Some good seat covers are planned for the future.

 

Steering wheel was $238 shipped off of Ebay. Pretty salty, but there was no way I was living with the original one forever.

Edited by Daryl Z71
  • Like 1
Posted

Catskinz?

 

Possibly. I'm looking at a new headliner, modded overhead storage area, modern fresh looking stereo, new top dash cover and surround, new carpet, and an interior covered in sound deadner. So I'd imagine I'll go with some nice covers.

  • Like 2
Posted

Possibly. I'm looking at a new headliner, modded overhead storage area, modern fresh looking stereo, new top dash cover and surround, new carpet, and an interior covered in sound deadner. So I'd imagine I'll go with some nice covers.

Can't wait to see all this. Keep up the good work!

Posted

Thanks. Most people probably think I'm crazy to want to dump money into this thing, but it's my favorite body style. I see it no different than someone restoring an old Camaro except that the Camaro would be worth more.

  • Like 2
Posted

I feel the same way. I'm working on it slowly but surely and will do my best to get it retired from dd duty asap.

 

My biggest (and only?) gripe is that it's a 3 door. :(

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Last night after work a coworker and I desoldered the old bulbs, and soldered in the new ones in the HVAC control unit. I ordered the bulbs from LMC truck for around $30 shipped. I came home last night, put it back together and put it in the truck. Every bulb lights up again.

 

87667e865032872a709357d691ebf603.jpg

 

29a332b5352f0ecbb392139ae4f64dbc.jpg

 

03e12ab6d40cf9e8c87f9ec098d6e1c9.jpg

 

0294c729338ce2ae2803377deac7678b.jpg

 

167fd20ca83cd23993b4d800008827b5.jpg

Edited by Daryl Z71
  • Like 2
Posted

 

My biggest (and only?) gripe is that it's a 3 door. :(

That's what I'm going to have to get used to myself. The kids noticed right away that I am "missing" a door compared to the '06.

Posted

That's what I'm going to have to get used to myself. The kids noticed right away that I am "missing" a door compared to the '06.

You will never get used to it, its just such a pita. I feel so bad for the poor soul who gets the short stick and ends up in the corner behind the driver, especially when there's a car seat in the middle like in our case.
Posted

I ordered two new Delphi knock sensors last night. Next I need to get a new harness for them, and some intake gaskets. After that job is done I need to buy and install a new oil pump.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,110 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...