Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So there is hope! I'll have to read your post history, but can you give me the TLDR?

 

I had to Google TLDR - never heard that before!

 

Read this, this and this. I also collected feedback about Continental LX20's and summarized it here.

 

--

Marc

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

 

I had to Google TLDR - never heard that before!

 

Read this, this and this. I also collected feedback about Continental LX20's and summarized it here.

 

--

Marc

Thank you! This gives me some hope. I just picked up my Tahoe last week and was unaware of these issues until I flew out to get it. At any rate, like you said, I hope I get a good Service Manager that is willing to go through the paces to get this resolved. I live in Houston so I will research which dealerships maybe have dealt with this before and have had positive results with their repairs.

 

Thanks again for the information!

Edited by 2015TahoePPV
Posted

What are the tsbs. I would like to print them out and bring to the dealer to negotiate having them done before the vehicle leaves the lot

Posted

What are the tsbs. I would like to print them out and bring to the dealer to negotiate having them done before the vehicle leaves the lot

CL Houn right? You've been on the thread almost as long I me, the TSBs are here, but I think you need to redo your approach.

 

If you test drive one that "feels" bad, why negotiate to have it fixed? Just move on and find another until you find a good one. They are out there, just takes some time.

 

That's what I did rather than have the dealer rip open my headliner to reapply glue - which now we're seen 2 people report have come undone anyway.

Posted

CL Houn right? You've been on the thread almost as long I me, the TSBs are here, but I think you need to redo your approach.

If you test drive one that "feels" bad, why negotiate to have it fixed? Just move on and find another until you find a good one. They are out there, just takes some time.

That's what I did rather than have the dealer rip open my headliner to reapply glue - which now we're seen 2 people report have come undone anyway.

The vehicle I test drove had no boom, no vibration, but I felt a lil dizzy on the drive, unless it's jus my paranoia.

The ride was a lil harsh with 22's. I think I remember a tsb for a softer shock, also tire pressure was at 35-37 psi which guys are recommending to be 32-33

Posted

The vehicle I test drove had no boom, no vibration, but I felt a lil dizzy on the drive, unless it's jus my paranoia.

The ride was a lil harsh with 22's. I think I remember a tsb for a softer shock, also tire pressure was at 35-37 psi which guys are recommending to be 32-33

Test drive some more, definitely shouldn't feel dizzy

 

No way to get around 22s being a tough ride especially on crap NE roads

 

Dropping pressure to 33 definitely will help but 20s at 33 will be even better

Posted

Test drive some more, definitely shouldn't feel dizzy

No way to get around 22s being a tough ride especially on crap NE roads

Dropping pressure to 33 definitely will help but 20s at 33 will be even better

I'm still on my factory tires, 20" Wranglers. Label on door states 32 psi but I air mine to 30 psi cold all the way around. One of the positives with the psi display in my DIC is that psi can be monitored real time. And, I've observed that it only takes a few miles of driving for pressure to climb to 32 and after a few more to 34 and so on. Just a side note; the Wrangler tire is a good tire but it does ride rough, especially if you're primarily an urban cowboy or cowgirl. So, as soon as these tires wear down a little more I'm putting Michelin LTX tires on. I'm a believer in Michelins, run them on all my vehicles, have for twenty years, maybe longer. But, having said that; tires are like marriage, the first thousand miles are the best, things get progressively rougher after that. So, when you drive your new sweetie off the dealer lot keep this Pearl in mind, lol !

  • Like 1
Posted

The vehicle I test drove had no boom, no vibration, but I felt a lil dizzy on the drive, unless it's jus my paranoia.

The ride was a lil harsh with 22's. I think I remember a tsb for a softer shock, also tire pressure was at 35-37 psi which guys are recommending to be 32-33

Try driving one with 18" wheels. The added sidewall really helps isolate you from the road harshness. The Suburban LS or LT's come standard with them. I custom ordered mine with 18" wheels because having low profile sport tires on a 7,000 lbs suv didn't make sense to me.

 

If you plan to drive on rough roads, off of the pavement or in the snow you should have 18" wheels, as a side benefit, replacement tires are less expensive.

 

The thinner band of rubber on 20" & 22" tires/wheels will not protect your wheels from severe pot holes etc. That is the reason for high inflation pressures to stop the tire from compressing and bending the rims.

 

That said, the new GM truck models all ride "firmer" than previous models and their seats are firmer too. That's the European car influence. These are not the float boats of years past.

Posted (edited)

1 - If you plan to drive on rough roads, off of the pavement or in the snow you should have 18" wheels

 

2 - The thinner band of rubber on 20" & 22" tires/wheels will not protect your wheels from severe pot holes etc.

 

3 - That is the reason for high inflation pressures to stop the tire from compressing and bending the rims.

 

4 - The new GM truck models all ride "firmer" than previous models.

 

I do agree with 1, but 2, 3, and 4 couldn't be more different for me. Keep in mind I'm not having issues with my truck. #2, I have been driving 20's on my Tahoe for 16 years, I don't hit severe pot holes often, but my wheel and tire combo handled it when I did. The only issue I have with 20's is the ease of hydroplaning in wet conditions. #3, I never put more than 33 psi in my cars or trucks. #4, my truck suspension rides too bouncy or spongy, actually made a complaint to the dealer about 2 years ago. Still rides the same way today. I also still have a gen 2 Tahoe, the suspension is firmer than my new gen 4 Tahoe.

Edited by The Zip
Posted

I have 20" on my 2015 LTZ and had them on my 2005 and 2008' can't remember any further back. I do agree with both Willyspu and The Zip as they make good points. The problem is (for me) that it's rare for the dealers in my area (north side of DFW Metroplex) to have inventory with 18" wheels other than work trucks and 2500's. And, I don't want to screw with special ordering. So, I just buy 20" rigs off of the lot. But, just saying, you couldn't give me a vehicle with 22" wheels. I bought one of my daughters a 2005 VW Beetle Turbo which had the low profile sport tires. And, not only did it ride rough but got about half the miles at twice the price as I would otherwise have got out of tires. It was sure fun to drive though, lol :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Despite getting some good advice on here to hold off, I pulled the trigger on a '16 Suburban Z71 Monday. Picked it up, loaded up with wife and 4 kids, two dogs, roof cargo carrier and rear hitch rack and went for 600 mile round trip to Adirondacks in NY. Will post some comments in another thread so as not to clutter this one, but experienced no real symptoms of the issues some of you have had. Truck was very smooth and quiet (we also have a Silverado 2500 gas and an Acadia Denali for comparison). The body does seem very tight, and there was a slight pressure sensation going over some bumps. I was really tuned into it having read this forum and being braced for the worst. No one else in the vehicle noticed anything.

 

The z71 is somewhat rare in my area. Maybe the wheel/tire combo is a plus, or maybe it has no bearing on whether this eventually suffers from the buffeting/vibration issues. But thanks to all for the feedback last couple of weeks. Hoping for a permanent fix soon for everyone..

I think the Z71 has different shocks and struts as well as different tires. A lot of difference in setup with all these trucks. The trucks are solid in the sense of Frame and body and very good crash tests.. A recent software update corrected the feeling that of a 5 speed stick matted to a v8 engine running on 4 cylinders in 4th gear doing 32 miles an hour with slight acceleration... Yes. A lot of inwanted vibration. O guess someone new to programming transmissions is about the equivalent as someone new to driving a stick.. Glad it has been improved!!

 

some things I think these trucks may all still have in common are:

- the tin can likeness.. Gravel on the rockers, wheel wells and under body resonate through the cabin like you're in a old cargo van. A little Shultz would have went a long way here.

- carpeting is piecemeal. If you peak back the carpet behind the rear seat you will see the studs sticking up like an inch over the nuts. lol

-the back up camera looks worse than my wife's 2004 Lexus gx470! As well as awful radio reception'

- the seat cushions are great until they start to wear out and wear out quickly they do! When you feel that alert probe in your right thigh. My dealers fix was to replace the seat cusion and leave the probe dangling on under the seat. And while they were at they have me the truck back with the lane departure warning turned off.. Well trained guys at jersey city Chevrolet. Even had a service excellence plaque on the wall.lol these guys are worse than shade tree used car people. I believe they'll take engine bulb out of your dash.. Never going there again!!!

 

In the meantime I'm shopping for struts and wheels and tires and a few cans of Shultz. Never thought in my life that would buy an $80,000.00 dollar truck that needs to modified just for every day 25-35 mph street use...(granted the streets of New York are a lot like off roading) Probably should have waited for the Z71 to come out.

Posted

"Truck was very smooth and quiet (we also have a Silverado 2500 gas and an Acadia Denali for comparison). The body does seem very tight, and there was a slight pressure sensation going over some bumps. I was really tuned into it having read this forum and being braced for the worst. No one else in the vehicle noticed anything."

 

Reading this blog will make you hear and feel things for sure. If you've raised kids you'll understand this analogy; when one of your kids comes home with a note from the school nurse stating he/she has head lice, what happens? In very short order your head starts itching and you feel things creepy things crawling around on your skull. That's the same effect this blog has, makes your head crawl :)

Posted

I think the Z71 has different shocks and struts as well as different tires. A lot of difference in setup with all these trucks. The trucks are solid in the sense of Frame and body and very good crash tests.. A recent software update corrected the feeling that of a 5 speed stick matted to a v8 engine running on 4 cylinders in 4th gear doing 32 miles an hour with slight acceleration... Yes. A lot of inwanted vibration. O guess someone new to programming transmissions is about the equivalent as someone new to driving a stick.. Glad it has been improved!!

 

some things I think these trucks may all still have in common are:

- the tin can likeness.. Gravel on the rockers, wheel wells and under body resonate through the cabin like you're in a old cargo van. A little Shultz would have went a long way here.

- carpeting is piecemeal. If you peak back the carpet behind the rear seat you will see the studs sticking up like an inch over the nuts. lol

-the back up camera looks worse than my wife's 2004 Lexus gx470! As well as awful radio reception'

- the seat cushions are great until they start to wear out and wear out quickly they do! When you feel that alert probe in your right thigh. My dealers fix was to replace the seat cusion and leave the probe dangling on under the seat. And while they were at they have me the truck back with the lane departure warning turned off.. Well trained guys at jersey city Chevrolet. Even had a service excellence plaque on the wall.lol these guys are worse than shade tree used car people. I believe they'll take engine bulb out of your dash.. Never going there again!!!

 

In the meantime I'm shopping for struts and wheels and tires and a few cans of Shultz. Never thought in my life that would buy an $80,000.00 dollar truck that needs to modified just for every day 25-35 mph street use...(granted the streets of New York are a lot like off roading) Probably should have waited for the Z71 to come out.

Don't feel too much remorse about not waiting for the Z71. Since my original post, the buffeting/booming has become more noticeable. The buffeting in particular is giving me headaches on longer drives. So while the 18" wheels and z71 specific shocks may help, it doesnt eliminate the problem.

 

Anyone with a level kit able to chime in with post-leveling buffeting results? The vendor that is touting reduced buffeting on lowered vehicles hasnt mentioned lifting the front ends as far as i know. Id be more interested in lifting the front end than lowering the vehicle to get level, and I could see why leveling the vehicle might change the airflow and reduce the buffeting.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,512 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...