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2014 Amp & Sub install


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Posted

I've seen a few " how-to " write ups, so I'll spare the details, but I'd like to share my add-on of an after market Amp & Sub install on my Double-Cab. Shout out to

bigbee, thanks for the post with the speaker wire color info. Pics to follow...

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Posted

Found an empty stud on battery labeled 125A, Perfect!! ( 8mm coarse thread FYI )

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Posted

Cut " nipple " off of factory pass through, and with a little help from a buddy and a couple feet of old coax cable, was able to get a feed from outside through under the dash. FYI in this pass through/grommet , inside, there is a small hole around 5 O'clock that is perfect for 4AWG wire, as is the " nipple " that I sliced off. You won't be able to see it, just feel around for it and you'll find it. I just taped power cable to coax and fed it through. This was BY FAR the most difficult part of the whole deal.

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Posted

And this is what I ended up with. You're input / questions are appreciated and encouraged!! Thanks!!!

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Posted

I used the JL Audio CP106LG-W3v3 Micro Sub. It's a tiny 6.5" sub, but let me tell you this thing rocks!!! It fits under seat no problem. As you can see from the picture, I went with the XD300/1v2 Amp. One great feature, besides being about the size of 4 card decks, is that it doesn't need a remote turn on. It can use a sensor to detect the DC signal from the factory deck, or a signal input sensor to turn on. Much like the old JL slash amps from 6-8 years ago..

Posted

2014 Double cab - under passenger side rear seat

 

(1) 10in JL TW3 - low profile

JL AMP

Custom made fiberglass box.

Base control knob up front.

Everything else BOSE stock - sounds killer.

 

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Posted

 

GMC-AT, looks good!!! How does that sub sound with that small air space? I have the silverado with 8" My link and non-Bose, base sound system, I too added the RLC. I haven't decided a permenant spot for it yet. Where do you have yours?

 

Posted

Looks really clean. I've been wanting to add a little more thump to my truck as well.

Posted

do you have any pics of where/how you spliced into the factory wiriring?

Posted

That JL 10TW3 sub is unreal... just read the reviews on it. It has more base that I would ever need. IMO it's all the factory BOSE system needs. I had the base control knob mounted down in the map pocket next to my seat. I can easily reach down and adjust as needed... but it's also hidden.

I know Kicker also makes that all in one sub/amp for our trucks as well. I'm sure that is a good sounding system... but for $800 you can build something better like above...

Posted

I'm at work now. I did not take pictures of signal taps, but once I'm out I'll pull a B pillar apart and snap a pic. I used JL Audio Part # XD-CLRAIC2-SW for the connection. Which is simply a speaker wire to RCA adapter. then ran RCA to Amp. The JL Audio XD300/1v2 uses RCA style plugs for both low and high level input ( switchable ) and signal sensing turn on. No remote wire needed. I used the info from bigbee's post for wire colors ( Base Audio ) LR = +\- Green\Green-Black, RR = +\- White\Blue-Black. I used blue 3M 18-16 AWG Run & Tap Moisture resistant scotchlok 804 electrical connectors for ease of splicing.

 

The rear Double cab doors have disconnects at the outter B pillar. to disconnect, remove rubber boot, pull down on purple lock bar and sperate then you can unclip the inner plug and work with that. Just carefully cut back the tape and tap wires.

Posted

I know Kicker also makes that all in one sub/amp for our trucks as well. I'm sure that is a good sounding system... but for $800 you can build something better like above...

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that the dealer kicker upgrade was only fitted for the crew cab. At least that's what my dealer told me when I asked about it while taking delivery of my dbl cab.

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