2014 Amp & Sub install

sinnerz · August 22, 2014

I'm assuming Denali has BOSE? I have base in my Silverado. I totally spaced on getting the pic of my taps to go along with my prior post. Once I drive the company's crap Dodge Ram back home I'll snap a pic.

Thanks DJayx, yeah forgot to mention that - truck has factory Bose. I have heard of people tapping into the factory sub for signal or the passenger rear door. I am thinking I am going to pick up and AudioControl LC7i, that way I can plan for the future and add a 4Ch amp for the door speakers. To get my signal for my mono sub amp, would the best place to tap be the factory sub?

DJayx · August 22, 2014

Thanks DJayx, yeah forgot to mention that - truck has factory Bose. I have heard of people tapping into the factory sub for signal or the passenger rear door. I am thinking I am going to pick up and AudioControl LC7i, that way I can plan for the future and add a 4Ch amp for the door speakers. To get my signal for my mono sub amp, would the best place to tap be the factory sub?

We just did my buddy's CTS and we unplugged factory sub and just used some male heat shrink connectors from there into an LOC then into his Alpine M500 hooked to a JL 8W3 in micro box so far so good

DJayx · August 24, 2014

Here is wire tap at B pillar. Sorry for the delay.

tbarn · December 25, 2014

Does the GM Kicker sub wiring install along rockers or under console?

DCazares · December 27, 2014

It depends if you have the Bose system or the base system. The kicker substage system that is used for Bose systems only uses 2 wire taps on the driver side footwell, along with the power and ground wire. The Soundgate for the base system requires the removal of the screen to plug in the harness provided. I installed the kicker substage to my Bose system and it sounds amazing.

tbarn · December 27, 2014

No Bose here but thanks for the info. Not really an audiofile but looking for a little more umph.

Spike17 · February 23, 2017

I installed two 12" shallow mounts on a dbl cab. It seems like the factory non Bose system lowers the low notes at high volumes to protect the cheap factory speakers. Has any one noticed that?

Chance Neel · February 23, 2017

I just installed these and they fit perfectly under my seat and include the amp. Sounds awesome.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693331/JL-Audio-ACP208LG-W3v3.html?tp=114&awkw=132253334665&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=69546578305&awdv=c&awug=9026908

TxTruckMan · February 23, 2017

I just installed these and they fit perfectly under my seat and include the amp. Sounds awesome.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693331/JL-Audio-ACP208LG-W3v3.html?tp=114&awkw=132253334665&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=69546578305&awdv=c&awug=9026908

Under which seat?

Sean Neilan · February 23, 2017

Under which seat?

Well it's 36" wide so I would guess the back one.

Chance Neel · February 23, 2017

Fits perfectly under my back seat. I paid $1100 total after taxes and all. That's pricey for me but I love good music and honestly I wanted a premium product that was still classy. This system is dual 8" and comes in a VERY well made and ported box. I also paid for a digital El for it and a pro install which was all in that price. It also included a small rotating knob installed under the steering wheel that you can't tell is there and allows me to turn it down or up as wanted. The sound will definitely surprise you. Back in the day I had dual 10" subs and this sounds better than those overall. Maybe 15 yrs of tech growth has helped that.

The box fits absolutely perfectly under the back seat so no mounting is needed. With the amp built in there's just one big plug and two rca jacks. I can unplug and remove in under 10 seconds and still have complete functionality of that room. Was a great buy.

maxum3300 · March 4, 2017

Has anyone addressed the issue of the factory stereo reducing the bass input into the aftermarket amp as the volume is increased and if how did you eliminate it?

Also for those of you that have replaced the door speakers and added an amp to run them how did you deal with the door chime volume being amplified.

At first I plan to just add 2 JL 10s and an amp and get my signal from the rear door speakers so I don't have to deal with the chimes. If later I decide to replace the factory speakers and add a 4 channel amp I will probably just use the rear speaker leads for the signal input and just use some rca Y adaptors for the 4 channel inputs, Run new speaker wires to all 4 doors and leave the dash speakers connected simply for the chimes that way the chimes won't be amplified. Of course using just the rear speaker outputs and the Y adaptors will eliminate the ability to fade front to back but I could simply adjust the gains to balance out the volume front to rear.